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You should see the LED headlight and lithium battery setup on my newest ride :LOL: it's a complete joke. Might be better if it just came with a bigger battery and a convenient place to plug it into a wall outlet at night.
 
Discussion starter · #67 ·
A buck converter is a DC to DC "step down" converter, meaning when you install the buck converter it is reducing the voltage you are already giving it. :ROFLMAO:
Its also step UP .

Now your just not listnening to me... YOUR LIGHTING SYSTEM IS ALREADY 12V!!
I know it is 12V but its AC or DC pulsed , or who knows lol. I want clean DC power ( NOT FROM the battery )!
ALso when idling it may fall bellow 12 volt thats why boost bucker converter is needed so it keeps stable 12V also when revving it goes over 12V .
 
. I want clean ac power !

First time you mention you need the AC power... for the last time man, what voltages is your led you intend to use

and for the record:
Boost is increase in voltages
buck is a reduction in voltages
boost/buck is an adjustable and selectable all in one unit. but can only use one side at a time.
 
I knew you did lol


They ran those old motorcycle bulbs non regulated, because the old filament bulb was immune to the up and down over voltage. It was by design, not coincidence. They didn't need to regulate the extra voltage which is to turn it into wasted heat. That's what a voltage regulator does, it dissipates excess voltage as heat. Now they can put on a smaller voltage regulator. Smart eh.
 
The lamps you are looking at can and should run off the battery. How many hours for I have no idea, maybe a long time.
and you can plug the battery up to a nice battery tender when it's parked which totally solves the charge time issues. You can't do that with your other voltage rectifier/regulator
 
Discussion starter · #75 ·
The lamps you are looking at can and should run off the battery. How many hours for I have no idea, maybe a long time.
and you can plug the battery up to a nice battery tender when it's parked which totally solves the charge time issues. You can't do that with your other voltage rectifier/regulator
Thanks I did not know about battery tenders. . will buy one.
Still I will try it to run them as I have it on my modification diagram .
 
If they can't make LED lights work off a battery and not require the alternator, that would leave electric cars in the dark. You plug electric cars in when you're not driving them because they run dead loss. Most of the guys trying to modify their old tech bikes for LED should just be running dead loss. All you ever needed was a better bigger battery to run all your low power consumption stuff.
 
Or just upgrade to a cbr125 stator and R/R,
then attach the yellow wire in the harness to the red wire out of the R/R, and walah.. it all has a steady 12v at up to 30 amps. replace all bulbs with led, and add a no load flasher on the signals.

Done!
 
Discussion starter · #79 · (Edited)
By the way the bike produces 170W at 5000k rpm I believe its enough if converted to clean DC and use LED . Also the alternator will work less since I can replace the bulbs with low Wattage LED .

So for example now we have
35w headlight + 21w rear brake light + 5W position light + 3 X 1.8W speedometer t10 = 66.4 W ..
If replaced with LED 25W headlight + 5W LED brake light + 1W LED position light + 3 X 0.2W LED speedometer = 31,6W !!!

Can even put 1.4W Brake light like this one from osram ( OSRAM LEDriving SL LED P21/5W Red | Twin Car Tail / Brake LightBulbs | PowerBulbs EU ) and the total will be 28W from 66.4W which is needed now.
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Discussion starter · #80 · (Edited)
Also If I disconnect the stator's white and green connector , bike runs fine if there is enough charge in the battery ..only lights dont work. My point is all ECU electronics work with DC from the battery through fuse box..because it was mentioned that some componenents may need AC.

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I also asked a bike electrician for this modification and told me it should work without issues.
 
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