[Trials]

Then you are buying a fancy capacitor to add in parallel to the existing battery, in the hope of powering that in addition to all the other important electrics off the marginal alternator that outputs just enough power 'occasionally' to keep your battery charged.
You're risking your alternator coil, you didn't add another battery you added a load.

You're right no AC dependent sensors only DC dependent sensors like an oxygen sensor.

 

[Visualizer]

"I just looked back at some old diagrams I have, thes sometimes were a 12v output as well, and yours is as well, its not an AC lighting system. The whole system is 12v. Lighting included "

12V DC? if so how we can explain that I get 12V AC at the lights?
check this please New video by chris cs

 

[EngineCollector]

View attachment 70201
By the way I believe the ECM is powered from the battery through fuse B .. So I dont see any AC sensors.

the part I already told you... see the "single" white wire coming off the stator?????

that is the only thing providing any power at all..you get roughly 20 to 28vac per white wire. you have only one. most other bikes have three, the three ca produce 3 time the power your can.

So again.... yours does not produce ENOUGH power to alter anything on the system.

the only way to acheave more power is to upgrade the stator and R/R to a 3 phase system.

This is for the CBR 125, it may bolt right in, with minimal wiring changes.

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Note the three yellow wires (three phase).
if you get this make sure the outer diameter is the same as your old one.

 

[EngineCollector]

"I just looked back at some old diagrams I have, thes sometimes were a 12v output as well, and yours is as well, its not an AC lighting system. The whole system is 12v. Lighting included "

12V DC? if so how we can explain that I get 12V AC at the lights?
check this please New video by chris cs

View attachment 70202

For one you always set your meter to the closest setting to the voltage your measuring. In your video, you have it set to 200, when it clearly should be set on the 20.

when you test AC voltages on a DC circuit at 200, the voltage will give a reading, nad as voltage increases the reading will decreas. You are seeing a confliction of the wrong test setting in the wrong voltage type and also the inner resistors of the testor giving you a false reading.


Set the meter to 20v DC, and re test. voltages will increase as rpm increases.

 

[Visualizer]

The white wire goes to honda's regulator and gets converted and regulated to DC to charge the battery . The battery through FUSE B provides DC to ECM at IGN input. No?
By the way I took the idea from this guy

 

[Visualizer]

Set the meter to 20v DC, and re test. voltages will increase as rpm increases.

Have done , the result is the same..

 

[Trials]

Hook an oscilloscope up to it and you will see the problem real fast.

 

[Visualizer]

Hook an oscilloscope up to it and you will see the problem real fast.

Wish I had one

 

[Trials]

Wish I had one

I have a real nice little dual trace one, but I'm an electronics geek.

 

[EngineCollector]

The white wire goes to honda's regulator and gets converted and regulated to DC to charge the battery . The battery through FUSE B provides DC to ECM at IGN input. No?
By the way I took the idea from this guy

Do you know what a capacitor is??

it is a power "storage" bank similar to a battery, however a capacitor unlike a battery will discharge "ALL" of its stored power at once. Where as a battery will only discharge its power at set levels of voltage and oner a length of time.



This guy all he did was ad another rectifier at the headlight, this only rectifies the headlight ac on his to dc for his new light, and he used a "high charge high discharg" capacitor to stabilize the current to prevent flicker.

If you have a "how to" from him, why are we discussing this?

 

[Visualizer]

Yes I bought one but I am not planning to use it since the boost buck convert has one in it ..thats the way how it keep the voltage stable to 12v I guess

 

[EngineCollector]

Yes I bought one but I am not planning to use it since the boost buck convert has one in it ..thats the way how it keep the voltage stable to 12v I guess

I have already told you these systems came in an AC and a DC mix, but also had an DC only system. your lights on your diagram say they are a 12v 35watt.

Post a picture of your headlight and box

 

[Visualizer]

Headlight bulb? hmm what box you are reffering ? sorry I dont understand

 

[EngineCollector]

Headlight bulb? hmm what box you are reffering ? sorry I dont understand

The picture in post #25 is from your wiring diagram.

and I will post it here as well.

It says your headlight is a 12v bulb with a 35watt high beam and a 35watt low beam
Blue wire is the high beam, and the white is the low beam then the green is the ground wire.

Look at your diagram for the tail/brake lights, it still says 12v

 

[Trials]

...
Post a picture of your headlight and box

I just googled h4 nighteye 25w
it's one of a pair of headlight bulbs for use in a car and there is no way the light from them will focus the same as a glass bulb the reflector was designed for and they appear to have a big heat sink probably to dissipate heat off the back where the headlamp housing possibly wasn't made to deal with.

 

[Visualizer]

The picture in post #25 is from your wiring diagram.

and I will post it here as well.

It says your headlight is a 12v bulb with a 35watt high beam and a 35watt low beam
Blue wire is the high beam, and the white is the low beam then the green is the ground wire.
View attachment 70205


Look at your diagram for the tail/brake lights, it still says 12v

Thats correct , it has one halogen headlight bulb 35W . The Dimmer switch takes power from the yellow wire and provides power to blue or white wire.

 

[Visualizer]

I just googled h4 nighteye 25w
it's one of a pair of headlight bulbs for use in a car and there is no way the light from them will focus the same as a glass bulb the reflector was designed for and they appear to have a big heat sink probably to dissipate heat off the back where the headlamp housing possibly wasn't made to deal with.

Thats an LED I have spare from my car.. I can buy another one thats not an issue .

 

[Trials]

LED is a solid state device that means 1- it is sensitive to over-voltage spikes, even brief ones and 2- it has no latency, if the input power fluctuates the light off it will fluctuate.

Incandescent lamps have some latency and are less affected by power fluctuations.

 

[Trials]

Add to that you are putting this into a housing designed for a halogen lamp.

 

[Visualizer]

LED is a solid state device that means 1- it is sensitive to over-voltage spikes, even brief ones and 2- it has no latency, if the input power fluctuates the light off it will fluctuate.

Incandescent lamps have some latency and are less affected by power fluctuations.

thats why I am trying to convert the system in order to be able to run the LED ( boost buck converter will keep voltage to 12V )

Add to that you are putting this into a housing designed for a halogen lamp.

I know .. the point here is to make it work . If it melts the housing or reflects baldy is another story I could deal with it later.I can even replace all the headlight with an LED Headlight .. the point is still to make the system to work with LED.