[Visualizer]

"Now here is where you need to confirm with a voltage test " I have done this test by using a multimeter at the headlight input wiring(green and white wire) , I was getting AC 12V idle and when revving the engine up to AC 15V if I remember correctly(maybe more ) .When I set the multimeter to DC i was getting like 8v DC which dropped to 3,4V DC when revving the engine.

 

[EngineCollector]

Ok, the yellow will most likely be AC voltage

the red/white coming out is the 12v DC


As you can see the system has both. this system is of the verry lowest power output they make. Meaning the AC power is just enough as needed (And) The12vDC is "just" enough " converted from the AC. the 12v output is dependent on the strength of the AC output.

If you trace the 12v and the Ac wires they both support different componets, and also supply the ECM.

Some sensors are 12vdc, some systems are AC. My point is these are highly dependent on the voltages they do get to function.

When you try to add a light, you effectivly lower the available power the entire system recieves.

The light you mention (H4) is an automotive bulb that will need more voltage than your system can provide. So with it not having all the power it needs, it will flicker, or not come on at all in some cases.


Most of these systems are so old that they were no longer used except for in mass produced "non manufacturer" clone engines. because they are a base system and cost effective. These on carburated bikes only ran the lights and ignition (CDI), and the 12v was what was used for the starting system.

Most people were able to replace the stator with a 3 phase, with 3 times the power output (up to 80vAC) and were successful in rewiring the rest of the replacement lights in.

Heres the problem for you.... yours is a FI system intertwined with this dual output system and has crank sensors, ECM's etc... meaning you cant just change the system as easily as you think.

Bottom line is until you have a larger amount of power from the alternator/stator you will not have sufficient power to run any accessories/ without pulling power from other componets.

 

[Visualizer]

By the way I found a video which I had it recorded .. here is the link if you want to watch https://photos.app.goo.gl/Szsf7D8ruQmDh93Q6

"If you trace the 12v and the Ac wires they both support different componets, and also supply the ECM. "

I dont see the yellow wire to go to those sensors.I am missing something here?

"
When you try to add a light, you effectivly lower the available power the entire system recieves.
The light you mention (H4) is an automotive bulb that will need more voltage than your system can provide. So with it not having all the power it needs, it will flicker, or not come on at all in some cases. "

I am not trying to add more lights but just replace the existing one's with LED which consume less power.I only want to change the lights to DC not all the system.
So you think the modification diagram I uploaded on my first post wont work?

 

[Visualizer]

Isnt this a separated coil for the AC depended sensors etc?

 

[EngineCollector]

By the way I found a video which I had it recorded .. here is the link if you want to watch https://photos.app.goo.gl/Szsf7D8ruQmDh93Q6

"If you trace the 12v and the Ac wires they both support different componets, and also supply the ECM. "

I dont see the yellow wire to go to those sensors.I am missing something here?
View attachment 70196


"
When you try to add a light, you effectivly lower the available power the entire system recieves.
The light you mention (H4) is an automotive bulb that will need more voltage than your system can provide. So with it not having all the power it needs, it will flicker, or not come on at all in some cases. "

I am not trying to add more lights but just replace the existing one's with LED which consume less power.I only want to change the lights to DC not all the system.
So you think the modification diagram I uploaded on my first post wont work?

I just looked back at some old diagrams I have, thes sometimes were a 12v output as well, and yours is as well, its not an AC lighting system. The whole system is 12v. Lighting included

proven here:

The whole system is12v, just has a seperate lighting circuit.

 

[Trials]

CKP is your crankshaft position sensor, all that sensor coil does is trigger the ignition timing.

 

[EngineCollector]

The older chinese scooters had some with an AC lighting circuit same as this, but also some others had the same sytem with a 12vdc out lighting circuit. I honestly thought all these were done away with.

 

[Trials]

You are correct but he has fuel injection and a whole bunch of sensors.

OP Can you just make the lamp illuminate off the battery you have.
If you can't make that work, there is no sense going any further with the project.

Battery Only outputs nice clean DC

 

[EngineCollector]

You are correct but he has fuel injection and a whole bunch of sensors.

yeah this is a whole mess of old tech mixed with new tech.. what a headache!!

 

[EngineCollector]

OP... does your H4 have a ballast box? if it does, this low power system will not run it.

 

[Visualizer]

I can do it but whats the point .. it will put more stress to the battery. Still I cant understand why I cant modify the yellow wire to produce clean DC since it goes only to the lights. 😟

 

[Trials]

Sigh... if you can do it straight off that battery then do it that way.
Your entire bike runs off DC now, fuel pump, the works, there is even another diode pack on that diagram.
the voltage is on and off and all over the place because it has a marginal alternator charging the battery.

The battery is your only source of clean DC 12 volt assuming it still has a lead acid battery in it.

 

[EngineCollector]

I said this already... your stator is a single phase, and does not produce enough power to run anything larger than whats already in the bulb sockets. you can easily look the bulb numbers up and then search for the equivilant in an led format.

But keep in mind your signals will flash extremly fast.

 

[Trials]

Forget flashy lights at this point, he can't even light one bulb yet.

 

[Visualizer]

I dont want to run anything larger as I know led use less power .. so the power for all lights replaced with LED will be less than now but I need to have clean DC at the yellow wire .Doing the modification as in my first post wouldnt do that?

 

[Visualizer]

 

[Trials]

I don't even know what that black box is but the full wave bridge rectifier is just 4 diodes arranged in a specific direction.
Just rewire the light off the battery, the ignition switch has a battery wire terminal, it's red, in theory the lights are now on when the key is.

 

[Visualizer]

By the way I believe the ECM is powered from the battery through fuse B .. So I dont see any AC sensors.

 

[Visualizer]

I don't even know what that black box is but the full wave bridge rectifier is just 4 diodes arranged in a specific direction.
Just rewire the light off the battery, the ignition switch has a battery wire terminal, it's red, in theory the lights are now on when the key is.

The black box is a DC-DC boost buck converter which converts and stabilizes DC from 8-40V TO 12V10A so when bike idles power will stay to 12V and led are supposed to not flicker . I can wire the lights directly from FUSE A or B with a " fuse thief " as I have my fog lights which turn on with the key and the switch to ON position but thats not the point here.
I want to use the current from the stator so I dont put more stress on the battery.

 

[EngineCollector]

POST # 25