[Trials]

See that thing at the top right labeled regulator rectifier already has one.

Plus an LED is a light emitting diode, it illuminates due to reverse bias voltage and that can come from AC or DC. The diode doesn't know any different, all it needs is a load it can handle.

 

[Trials]

Honestly, if you want a motorcycle that is 100% LED buy a new motorcycle. You're chasing things you don't need, all an LED light needs is a resistor of the right size and the right size is dependent on the current draw of each of those custom LED's

 

[Trials]

LED flickers because it has no latency it's a solid state device
and the power coming out of your coil is very inconsistent as it seems you have a single phase alternator.
If you power the LED devices off the battery the battery would regulate the DC or alternatively you might add a condenser to the circuit to smooth the power, because a condenser acts much like a battery in the most simple sense.

You can do it if you want to become an electronics geek, no problem.
... at the moment you are doing it all wrong you are adding diodes to power diodes.

 

[Trials]

So do you think my modification diagram is correct ? I am mostly concerned about the grounding if its correct or should I use the green wire coming out of honda's regulator.

It's correct but completely redundant. You don't need any of it,
you just need to understand the technology better.

 

[Trials]

You bought a set of LED car headlight bulbs and plan to power it off a really dirty power supply. I can see why you had them flicker and burn out. All that black box stuff you are trying to add is a cleaner power supply. Your headlight has a reflector that was not designed for a car LED headlight bulb, it was designed to reflect a glowing chunk of carbon, it will never project right.
You're going to spend a ton of money you should be putting into chains brakes and tires.

 

[Trials]

CKP is your crankshaft position sensor, all that sensor coil does is trigger the ignition timing.

 

[Trials]

You are correct but he has fuel injection and a whole bunch of sensors.

OP Can you just make the lamp illuminate off the battery you have.
If you can't make that work, there is no sense going any further with the project.

Battery Only outputs nice clean DC

 

[Trials]

Sigh... if you can do it straight off that battery then do it that way.
Your entire bike runs off DC now, fuel pump, the works, there is even another diode pack on that diagram.
the voltage is on and off and all over the place because it has a marginal alternator charging the battery.

The battery is your only source of clean DC 12 volt assuming it still has a lead acid battery in it.

 

[Trials]

Forget flashy lights at this point, he can't even light one bulb yet.

 

[Trials]

I don't even know what that black box is but the full wave bridge rectifier is just 4 diodes arranged in a specific direction.
Just rewire the light off the battery, the ignition switch has a battery wire terminal, it's red, in theory the lights are now on when the key is.

 

[Trials]

Then you are buying a fancy capacitor to add in parallel to the existing battery, in the hope of powering that in addition to all the other important electrics off the marginal alternator that outputs just enough power 'occasionally' to keep your battery charged.
You're risking your alternator coil, you didn't add another battery you added a load.

You're right no AC dependent sensors only DC dependent sensors like an oxygen sensor.

 

[Trials]

Hook an oscilloscope up to it and you will see the problem real fast.

 

[Trials]

Wish I had one

I have a real nice little dual trace one, but I'm an electronics geek.

 

[Trials]

...
Post a picture of your headlight and box

I just googled h4 nighteye 25w
it's one of a pair of headlight bulbs for use in a car and there is no way the light from them will focus the same as a glass bulb the reflector was designed for and they appear to have a big heat sink probably to dissipate heat off the back where the headlamp housing possibly wasn't made to deal with.

 

[Trials]

LED is a solid state device that means 1- it is sensitive to over-voltage spikes, even brief ones and 2- it has no latency, if the input power fluctuates the light off it will fluctuate.

Incandescent lamps have some latency and are less affected by power fluctuations.

 

[Trials]

Add to that you are putting this into a housing designed for a halogen lamp.

 

[Trials]

You should see the LED headlight and lithium battery setup on my newest ride it's a complete joke. Might be better if it just came with a bigger battery and a convenient place to plug it into a wall outlet at night.

 

[Trials]

thats why I am trying to convert the system in order to be able to run the LED ( boost buck converter will keep voltage to 12V )

Your lead acid battery does a perfectly good job of doing that now. What did it buy you but more heat displacement electronics which simply means more load on your tiny alternator.

 

[Trials]

AC voltages have a "pulse" in the supply

DC voltages are a constant continous supply

um, I can find you a very nice square wave dc pulse right off that ecu where it says fuel injector
edit: oh wait lol that's the other 125 guy, but same logic applies.

 

[Trials]

Its also step UP .


I know it is 12V but its AC or DC pulsed , or who knows lol. I want clean ac power !
ALso when idling it may fall bellow 12 volt thats why boost bucker converter is needed so it keeps stable 12V also when revving it goes over 12V .

Hello! Battery