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See that thing at the top right labeled regulator rectifier already has one.

Plus an LED is a light emitting diode, it illuminates due to reverse bias voltage and that can come from AC or DC. The diode doesn't know any different, all it needs is a load it can handle.

I dont understand ..When I put the additional rectifier I get ONLY DC ..not ac at all. Why honda's regulator doesnt provide only DC?
Also I have tried a few LEDS , they do not work ..they flicker like hell and burn out.

 

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Your bottom diagram is a waste of wiring.. any and all loads can be drawn off the battery voltages supplied to the keyed ignition switch.

The red/white dotted line coming out of the rectifier is a 12v line. your system is 12v, all bikes use an AC to generate power, then has a R/R to rectify it to DC and then regulates it.

You can do one or the other:

Run a direct "fused" power wire lead from the battery with a seperate on and off switch, and then just attach a ground to the frame. (you need a switch to turn off in this method)

or:

Tap into the power wire coming "out" of the ignition switch (this wire is direct battery voltages) and then run a ground to the frame. this method gives you the key to turn off the added accessory.

I already have a switch taking power from the fusebox using a "fuse thief" to power my "fog lights" . If I connect everything to the battery it will put a lot of stress , already when I am stopped and I use the turn signals with the fog lights I can see the fog light dim a bit .
But the red and white is for the battery I want to change the original harness as little as possible thats why I am trying to do it like this .

 

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What led lights do you have?? share a link of them..

I have some h4 nighteye 25w which I may use but my purpose is to use led lights everywhere ( position light,headlight, speedometer , rear )

 

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If you take directly from the R/R, you will limit the amount of power going to your battery.

So you take the power from the battery as every other bike in known existance does so you dont prevent your battery from being under charged. this will leave you stranded likely from a low power battery.

Why ? I will take from the yellow wire which is for the lights now and it has AC . The only difference will be that the current will be converted to DC , I dont see how this will limit the power going to the battery.

 

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Honestly, if you want a motorcycle that is 100% LED buy a new motorcycle. You're chasing things you don't need, all an LED light needs is a resistor of the right size and the right size is dependent on the current draw of each of those custom LED's

Thanks but you dont think I will achieve the lighting system to be 100% LED with the modifications I am planning to do?

 

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So do you think my modification diagram is correct ? I am mostly concerned about the grounding if its correct or should I use the green wire coming out of honda's regulator.

 

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You still have not answered the type of led you have question.

the yellow wire is the factory AC lighting wire. yes its for lights, but this is a single phase AC altinator. which means when your rpm drops, so does the power voltage.

The better step up version of your system has a seperate lighting coil. yours uses the same power generated to run the lights and the charge to the battery.

Notice the lower right "alternator" it only has one wire (green) this is the "only" output it has, the white is ground.

So you either have to use low voltage AC leds, or you have to use the 12v side and run new wires.

I think I did..anyway
I have some h4 nighteye 25w which I may use but my purpose is to use led lights everywhere ( position light,headlight, speedometer , rear ) .
"So you either have to use low voltage AC leds, or you have to use the 12v side and run new wires."
Would you mind explaining this better or show it to me on the diagram ? Thanks

 

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Ok, look at the altinator in your diagram (top one)... the green is ground... the white is AC voltage that when tested will not excede on this single phase alternator 20vAC (max rpm)

You see the curly thing in the middle.. thats a "single phase" AC coil.
See on the bottom the ground (green wire) this is the ground for the alternator/ststor mount base.

View attachment 70194


This green wire is shared by all componets in the system. (follow the wire from here and you will see it goes to all lights)
as well as the R/R. again this is a ground.
the white wire here is the "single" power output. (most bikes today have a 3 phase/ 3 wire)

Notice how this white wire stops at the R/R... Now here is where you need to confirm with a voltage test. the wellow coming off the R/R is some times "pass thru" AC, meaning it just passes thru tue r/r an changed. This wire will only go to "some" lights, notice how the rear signals do not share this wire just the tail/brake.


Following me so far?

Yes .. please continue ! By the way I understand that the turn signals and the rear brake light when is pressed is getting power from the battery...also the neutral bulb.

 

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"Now here is where you need to confirm with a voltage test " I have done this test by using a multimeter at the headlight input wiring(green and white wire) , I was getting AC 12V idle and when revving the engine up to AC 15V if I remember correctly(maybe more ) .When I set the multimeter to DC i was getting like 8v DC which dropped to 3,4V DC when revving the engine.

 

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By the way I found a video which I had it recorded .. here is the link if you want to watch https://photos.app.goo.gl/Szsf7D8ruQmDh93Q6

"If you trace the 12v and the Ac wires they both support different componets, and also supply the ECM. "

I dont see the yellow wire to go to those sensors.I am missing something here?

"
When you try to add a light, you effectivly lower the available power the entire system recieves.
The light you mention (H4) is an automotive bulb that will need more voltage than your system can provide. So with it not having all the power it needs, it will flicker, or not come on at all in some cases. "

I am not trying to add more lights but just replace the existing one's with LED which consume less power.I only want to change the lights to DC not all the system.
So you think the modification diagram I uploaded on my first post wont work?

 

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Isnt this a separated coil for the AC depended sensors etc?

 

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I can do it but whats the point .. it will put more stress to the battery. Still I cant understand why I cant modify the yellow wire to produce clean DC since it goes only to the lights. 😟

 

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I dont want to run anything larger as I know led use less power .. so the power for all lights replaced with LED will be less than now but I need to have clean DC at the yellow wire .Doing the modification as in my first post wouldnt do that?

 

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By the way I believe the ECM is powered from the battery through fuse B .. So I dont see any AC sensors.

 

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I don't even know what that black box is but the full wave bridge rectifier is just 4 diodes arranged in a specific direction.
Just rewire the light off the battery, the ignition switch has a battery wire terminal, it's red, in theory the lights are now on when the key is.

The black box is a DC-DC boost buck converter which converts and stabilizes DC from 8-40V TO 12V10A so when bike idles power will stay to 12V and led are supposed to not flicker . I can wire the lights directly from FUSE A or B with a " fuse thief " as I have my fog lights which turn on with the key and the switch to ON position but thats not the point here.
I want to use the current from the stator so I dont put more stress on the battery.

 

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"I just looked back at some old diagrams I have, thes sometimes were a 12v output as well, and yours is as well, its not an AC lighting system. The whole system is 12v. Lighting included "

12V DC? if so how we can explain that I get 12V AC at the lights?
check this please New video by chris cs

 

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The white wire goes to honda's regulator and gets converted and regulated to DC to charge the battery . The battery through FUSE B provides DC to ECM at IGN input. No?
By the way I took the idea from this guy

 

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Set the meter to 20v DC, and re test. voltages will increase as rpm increases.

Have done , the result is the same..