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AC - DC CONVERSION [CBF125 ]

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ac dc bridge rectifier convert honda led lights
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#81 ·
Bike electrician :LOL: bummer, they didn't offer that course when I went to school, all we could get was electronics as a major. Congratulations on figuring out that your motorcycle has a battery coil ignition system and that your battery can carry a lighter load just dandy.

No, you were the only one that thinks the bike needs alternating current, I told you your motorcycle works completely off direct current. That's why your single phase alternator output goes straight into a rectifier before anything else.
 
#82 ·
Visualizer said:
Also If I disconnect the stator's white and green connector , bike runs fine if there is enough charge in the battery ..only lights dont work. My point is all ECU electronics work with DC from the battery through fuse box..because it was mentioned that some componenents may need AC.

View attachment 70212

I also asked a bike electrician for this modification and told me it should work without issues.
Click to expand...

AS you have been told many times over and over, your entire bike is a DC operating system, the only AC is the stator output that is used to "charge" the battery.

Yes if you unplug the stator, it will continue to run, until the battery voltage drops too low and cant run the ECM, then it will die out.

Visualizer said:
I also asked a bike electrician for this modification and told me it should work without issues.
Click to expand...
:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
Then why the Hell are you wasting our time for 4 pages of postings...
Good lord man!! this whole thread is a waste if your not going to listen....

I also dont believe you had talks with a (motorcycle electrician) as the profession merley does not exist..
it would either be a mechanic (tech) or an electrical engineer.
 
#83 ·
I passed a motorcycle mechanics night school course once, it was a joke, but the teacher learned lots and it gave me access to great tools and a nice warm place to work on my own motorcycle, so it was excellent. Highly recommended if there is such a thing near you.
 
Discussion starter · #85 ·
For anyone interested on this please ignore the previous diagram because they are wrong!!!!.
The solution is to use a 25v 10.000mf capacitor with a fuse at the rectifier output ( yellow wire ) . This will give the bike a stable 12v output on idle while before it had 7V.
CBF125 is using negative pulsed DC for the lighting system thats why the positive of the capacitor should be connected to the frame.

Image
 
#88 · (Edited)
Oh come on, you clearly have the headlight off in the first pic, the gauge light is out. The 35 watt halogen would make maybe half that much light, IF you had it on.

And the last 5 pages wasted too, the bike can be made to power that up without changing anything other than other bulbs to LED also to lower total overhead, BTDT. Dunno what you think you were doing with that condenser.
 
#89 ·
He's using it as a reservoir capacitor to smooth the raw rectified waveform.
LED's are solid state, they have no latency like an incandescent lamp, they flicker like crazy if you run them on a pulse. He's just wired it directly into the lamp circuit, could have located it anywhere in that circuit, no idea what the fuse is for.
 
Discussion starter · #90 · (Edited)
amc49 said:
Oh come on, you clearly have the headlight off in the first pic, the gauge light is out. The 35 watt halogen would make maybe half that much light, IF you had it on.

And the last 5 pages wasted too, the bike can be made to power that up without changing anything other than other bulbs to LED also to lower total overhead, BTDT. Dunno what you think you were doing with that condenser.
Click to expand...
Yes the headlight is off on the first picture .. never said it was on 🤔
You have no idea what you are talking about .. because I tried many LED and would flicker like crazy with pulsed DC . Most old low power bikes which power the lights from the stator - rectifier have the same issue when you try to use LED. Do you think I did not try to run LED directly ? Come on 🤣
 
#94 ·
Visualizer said:
I don't care about the cap it costs about 5$ . Capacitors can cause a short circuit ,explode or even start a fire if they go bad that's why you MUST use a fuse .
Click to expand...
But :sneaky: you will never be able to draw enough power through it to melt the fuse, caps discharge very rapidly. It's not going to prevent anything, you can still get a good jolt from it if there is any residual charge left in it though and if there is you can just short that out at the cap with a screwdriver instead of your finger.

... if it goes bad it's probably going to bubble up on the top of the cap near where the wires go into the canister and just quit working.
 
#95 · (Edited)
The cap there may well be like lightning and discharge so fast the fuse cannot save anything. Why you don't use fuses on caps. I use ones 20 times bigger than that one on home A/C work, you don't have a cap there you have a toy copy of a cap.

'Βy the way using a 25W LeD makes a huge difference vs a 35W halogen.'
'Yes the headlight is off on the first picture .. never said it was on'

That stated comparison which was not a comparison at all does not make one look smarter.

Pretty sure there is a way to use a simple resistor in a different way to not let an LED bleed down instantly to flicker. I've had them in systems to cut one off and it takes 3-4 seconds to drop off in light intensity by making it bleed down slowly. Bleeding down that slow hides all flicker. The LEDs have to be dimmable ones though, some can't handle that.
 
Discussion starter · #96 ·
Trials said:
But :sneaky: you will never be able to draw enough power through it to melt the fuse, caps discharge very rapidly. It's not going to prevent anything, you can still get a good jolt from it if there is any residual charge left in it though and if there is you can just short that out at the cap with a screwdriver instead of your finger.

... if it goes bad it's probably going to bubble up on the top of the cap near where the wires go into the canister and just quit working.
Click to expand...
What you say its truth but there is no other way to protect the system i guess ..better than nothing .
 
Discussion starter · #97 ·
amc49 said:
The cap there may well be like lightning and discharge so fast the fuse cannot save anything. Why you don't use fuses on caps. I use ones 20 times bigger than that one on home A/C work, you don't have a cap there you have a toy copy of a cap.

'Βy the way using a 25W LeD makes a huge difference vs a 35W halogen.'
'Yes the headlight is off on the first picture .. never said it was on'

That stated comparison which was not a comparison at all does not make one look smarter.

Pretty sure there is a way to use a simple resistor in a different way to not let an LED bleed down instantly to flicker. I've had them in systems to cut one off and it takes 3-4 seconds to drop off in light intensity by making it bleed down slowly. Bleeding down that slow hides all flicker. The LEDs have to be dimmable ones though, some can't handle that.
Click to expand...
I am not here to look smart , I am just here to share the solution I found out to the issue I had with others that may have the same issue .
If you are sure would be great to share another solution that you have tested that it works but I dont see any disadvantages on using a capacitor.
 
#99 ·
Visualizer said:
What you say its truth but there is no other way to protect the system i guess ..better than nothing .
Click to expand...
What is the rating on the fuse you installed?
If you really want to fuse that circuit you have put the fuse in the wrong place. Your fuse is protecting nothing.

What type of rectifier are you using, is it a Zener diode or Selenium rectifier? <- That would be your voltage regulator in this circuit and diodes will be the first components to fail from over voltage.

and amc a capacitor IS what you use to smooth the current flow.

... and a fuse is not the only way to protect an electronic circuit, there are other ways to do that at greater cost and efficiency.
 
Discussion starter · #100 · (Edited)
Well if there is a short before the capacitor the fuse will blow and stop charging the capacitor ..so it does something ! I know it does not protect the LED but the one I am using is rated 9-32V so I think its safe .
I think Its a zener diode , I believe most of the stress is on the capacitor itself.
By the way I am using this daily ( lights are always on) for almost 2 months and had no issues .. time will show.
 
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