The thread cuts might be a bit different in each tube. So when the cap starts to thread, it might "catch" at a different rotation. I'd go with the measurements and disregard the screw slot orientation.

 

What he said ^^^

 

I did exactly that and direction of the slots on the screws is different on both sides, for example left screw is at 12 o'clock and and right is at 3 o'clock. Both measuring exactly 9mm.

You can loosen the upper and lower fork tube triple tree clamps then 'spin' the tube just enough till the adjuster screw slots line up any way you want. The front wheel MUST BE SUSPENDED UP OFF THE GROUND when you loosen the clamps or the tubes will slide up in the triple tree under weight of the bike..

S F

 

If you can't live with the slots being askew, you could always do the TPMS warning light fix. Stick a piece of black electrical tape over the screws.

 

I can live with it, just trying to understand if I did it right or wrong. It came on the bike with slots parallel at 12 oclock, I assumed that this setup came form the factory, they I rotated 90 degrees clockwise, decided I do not need it and rotated 90 degrees counterclockwise and just for the sake of it decided to measure, and what I found out is that there was a difference, I do not remember what exactly but something like left was 9.02mm, and right was 9.25mm, so to make one on the right to also be 9mm I had to turn it about 80-90 degrees more. That sparked a question whether they had it right and either my measurements are off or they did it like that just for aesthetics reason, etc.
Thanks everybody for help, I did some more reading and poking around after posting this post yesterday and so far my takeaway is that yes slots do not need to be aligned and small difference like 0.25mm or so more likely would not (should not) affect performance, after all left and right forks on my bike connected at the bottom of the wheel via rigid axis, plus they even have different structure and number of parts inside, right fork even has additional smaller spring inside while left has damper, who knows how those tolerances stack up so small difference in setup is inevitable. Well at-least this is my current understanding of things.

 

A slight difference in spring preload will not make any difference at all. It is not that sensitive.
Most likely the set-up guy in the dealership is the one that aligned the adjuster slots when he put the bike together. The factory probably put the preload to spec (without regard to symmetry) before shipping the unit out.

S F

 

Slots will NOT . coencide with threads on screw ..... That's just the way it is ....., Almost impossible to get them aligned .....

 

Tell us how you like the bike ..., Can you compare it to other models ? ,, ,Is the trans wonky ? Feel weak ? .....

 

I only have it for about two months I think, maybe 1.5 months, need to check papers as don't remember date I bought it, that's how spontaneous it was . You can see my previous discussion about my initial feelings about DCT here , spoiler alert, it did not go all that well initially. But as of today, after I put more miles on it (almost due for 600mi service) it is definitely growing on me. I will write a very objective second round opinion after I put about 1000 miles to it, after all I am still re-learning riding. I would say in terms of mechanical capabilities or performance the dct absolutely does not feel wonky nor weak, it has pros and cons over clutch but looking into the future I think pros will outweighs cons in my experience. And the bike itself handles almost just like a naked sport bike, no complaints about anything ergonomics wise, handle bars, seat, anything. Like I mentioned I will write more elaborated opinion and/or experience with dct for those who looking into same bike.