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It might work but be careful I found that 10% MEK and 90% xylene works to turn kreem in to a liquid you can remove by poring it out of the tank and shaking and repeating.

I also found that electroplating the tank with zinc works to a point.
It only plates the parts closest to the zinc electrode so I believe the electrosis would do the same thing.
below is a pic of the after pic You can clearly see the wavy pattern zinc plating makes I had to reposition the probe several times and it is slightly more complicated that just that, but it will not rust for around 10 years or so so I am happy with the results just have to find out a way to get the probe deeper in the tank with out it grounding to the metal sides.

There is a before pic in the other kream removal tank cleaning rust removal and the like thread is below.
I used the evopo-rust product on the tank to remove the rust it works very well but takes a few hours to a day to do it's work.

http://www.motorcycleforum.com/showthread.php?t=82768&page=2


By the way the tank had all the missing paint before the zinc electrosis
it is from the brasing they use to attach the tank top from the factory the paint just came off around the opening from all the years it had gas spill on it
 

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I've got a Cl200 that has kreem in the tank that is falling off. I'm thinking about using acid to clean it.I'm going to protect the outer paint. Then use BB's or small nuts to get the larger rust off.
I might use the electrolysis method afterward. It just gets the smaller particles, right?
Would it be better to coat it again with por 15 or just leave it uncoated and full? Thanks in advance.
Be careful the bbs can get stuck very easy in the tight spots in the tank and they don't clean as well as nuts or bolts because of the sharper edges they have.

I have read better things about red coat than kreem as to the por 15 I have not read about how well it works.
 
ya that sounds like it would work as well but the sharp strait edges and round edges of nuts and bolts as well as there size makes a better medium to me.
I just use a magnetic extender arm to remove them, however you are very much right the chain would allow removal much quicker so what ever you like or have on hand go for it.
 
MEK is a paint thinner it is called by several Synonyms: 2-Butanone; ethyl methyl ketone; MEK; Methyl acetone

any hadware store or paint store carries it
as well as the xylene

MEK should do it by its self but I can not guarantee it.
xylene is a weaker form of paint thinner than MEK .
MEK is a much stronger thinner so it will peel paint or discolor it very quickly and keep it off you as well I burns the skin with prolonged exposure.

As to not re coating the tank It should not rust very quickly if it is full of gas all the time and no water gets in the tank .
Coating is advisable under all conditions but coating is defiantly advisable if you let the tank run on empty often or keep the bike in damp areas like out side.
 
Do a Google search for Caswell Electroplating. They have a tank sealer that works excellant. I used it on my '57 Triumph, and it looks like glass inside. There are instructions on the site as well as with the product.

Good Luck,
Will
 
I got tank sealant at the local bike shop
on my tank it loosened a baffle (or something) inside the tank, rending it useless, in my mechanic's opinion
So...we're thinking of burning it inside and out to get an even temperature.
Any thoughts??
Theoretically I think it could work, but I'm afraid of the danger involved
I would really appreciate any advice
 
The tank has sludge in it: old gas or whatever that solidified so we are hoping, by heating it up, we can burn it out
And I don't know what was in the tank after we coated it, but something was rattling around in there that wasn't there before we coated it
My friend beat the hell out of the original tank because it was useless, so we have 2 or 3 other tanks we are hoping we can use
 
Some tanks have a baffle to cut down on the fuel sloshing around and keeps the fuel from getting near the vent hole other wise the fuel would leak out during sudden stops , starts and turns. as far as cleaning out rust evap- o- rust works very well but will not remove Kream coating.

Kream coating will work for 5- 10 years in most cases with no pealing in most cases but time does make a difference and it will start to peal eventually
 
You can sand it, grind it, or strip it. You can also take it to an engine shop and have them dip it in a hot tank. That'll clean it right off.

A project bike I'm working on now has a tank with trashed paint on the outside and trashed Kreem on the inside. Does anyone know if hot-tanking will get the Kreem out?
 
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