It's probably normal. I know that on kawasaki DOHC engines valve noise is normal- no ticking means tight valves, very loud ticking could mean loose valves. If a shop did it 3000 miles ago you should be fine, but if you're worried about it maybe you should use it as motivation to teach yourself to check valves on your own. It's actually not very difficult, just daunting for a first timer.

Also, you need to resize your avatar to 100x100 pixels. I know the upload page says 400x400 but that is a mistake.

 

Any engine with tappets should make at least some valve noise; when they go quiet is time to be concerned.
That thump, however, could be something more sinister, like a rod bearing. Unless, your engine has something mechanical inside that creates it normally. Some oil pumps make a noise like that, for example.

 

I will have to check that sound out more closely to see where its coming from.

 

yeah, ha i was just resizing it now. is ti better?

Thanks for the info. I did plan to check the valves earlier but since it was already done and I had JUST put in some Am$oil i decided to wait till this winter.

How bout the thuddier slower sound I am hearing? any ideas on that?
Thanks

 

If you hear it at idle, you can use a bolt pushed into the end of a piece of fuel line as a stethoscope; put the open end in an ear, and touch the bolt against the engine. Easy to find the loudest source that way, which should be near whatever is causing the noise.

 

wintrsol:

thanks! that is a much better idea than the length of broom handle trick my autoshop teacher taught me back in high school!

 

I am assuming that they also adjusted your cam chain as well during your valves being adjusted for proper tappet clearance. That can also be the excessive noise that you are hearing.

As for the Amsoil, I don't recommend it. I don't know what the specs on your engine are but getting yourself some good motorcycle oil is the only way to go IMO. If you have a wet clutch standard oil is bad. If you have a dry clutch like on a Harley, Amsoil shold be fine. I also recommend staying away from the synthetics unless you bike is new. It can cause leaks in older engine seals that weren't there previously. I wouldn't even go with the blends. Stick with the 10-40 as its a great all weather oil. I highly recommend Spectro brand. Its a bit more pricey but its worth the protection it gives your engine. If you have a wet clutch, it also helps shift smoother, reduces false neutrals and helps it shift into neutral much easier.

PS - I don't know your level of experience so recheck your tappet clearance while changing oil. Empty the bike first, do your adjustments, seal her back up and refill with oil. If you have an internal centrifugal oil filter then open the crankcase at this time and give that a clean as well. Must make sure your gasket is in good shape and add a bit of sealer to the bottom half while you are at it.

Good luck.

 

@Koda Coyote:

so your saying Amsoil is not a good motorcycle oil?

 

Honestly I have never seen Amsoil in a motorcycle oil. If they make it, it certainly isn't sold anywhere I have ever seen. I have seen automotive Amsoil and seen tests on it but like I said, it isn't sold in any motorcycle, automotive or departmental store in my area.

I assumed that he was speaking of an automotive oil and was therefore recommending a high quality motorcycle oil instead. Do you have to order Amsoil online for motorcycle oil or is it just a rare commodity?

I have always used Spectro with great results.

 

Amsoil does make motorcycle oil.

Harleys have a wet clutch.

 

Yes this is what I thought. and the amsoil is working so far in my bike!

 

Speaking of valve noice, it sounds like my bike is due for a valve asjustment. I almost wish I had gotten an 1100 instead of a 750. The 1100s have hydraulic followers, while the 750s have solids...

 

Don't worry taking off the cylinder head is not hard at all. Also the 750's have a lock nut style adjustment rather than a shim style, so it will be a simple process. Just make sure you align top dead center on the compression stroke by reading the hash marks in the inspection window.

Just torque everything back down to specs in a crisscross pattern and you will be fine.

 

'round here are a couple dealers that keep Amsoil motorcycle oil on the shelf. Just switched to it myself.

Cheers,

Mike

 

Amsoil sells a wide range of oils - motorcycle, Diesel, racing, auto, differential, transmission (auto and manual), power steering, etc., and various filters and other related accessories (some are re-branded). It's up to each dealer to decide what part of the line is worth stocking, just like anything else.

 

speaking of amsoil

has anyone tested their claim of 25k miles??

is that real???

I'm thinking about putting that in my sporster next time around??

edit: and harleys use seperate gear oil, so you can use dry clutch type oil with friction modifiers in it.

I got pensoil 20w50 race oil. Engine responds slightly better

 

edit: and harleys use seperate gear oil, so you can use dry clutch type oil with friction modifiers in it.

I got pensoil 20w50 race oil. Engine responds slightly better

That was always my understanding as well. I have never worked on or owned a Harley but its always been my understanding that they are different than a standard wet clutch that is lubricated with the same oil as the standard oil in the crankcase.

 

Thats a keen idea dods, keep the garbage from the engine out of the transmission, and the shavings of metal from the tranny out of the engine.

I'm a motul boy myself, far by the most popular oil here for motorcycles. I love it, except the pricetag. In basic bikes like my ninja 250 I had before, i just ran generic castrol 20w50.

noises from the head are just a fact of life with most bikes, ninja 250's are rattly as hell, my Hyosung sounds like it has no oil at all, although my kawasaki 1400 is smooth as silk.