Motorcycle Forum banner

Need help with grinding noise from Front Caliper After Wheel Change (2015 R3)

1 reading
170 views 6 replies 7 participants last post by  Jack Klarich  
#1 ·
Hey everyone,



I just put my wheels back on after getting new tires mounted at a shop, and now I’m hearing a grinding noise coming from the front brake caliper whenever I ride, and seeing metal shavings on the rotor. The noise wasn’t there before the wheel swap.



A couple details:



  • Bike: Yamaha R3 (2015)
  • Both wheels were taken off and brought to a shop for new tires. I reinstalled them myself.
  • Pads and caliper weren’t touched during this process.
  • The noise happens while riding (not only when I brake).





I haven’t been able to check inside the caliper yet because the bolts are Torx/star type and I don’t have the right bit. I’m pretty sure from looking that my pads still have life in them.(attached image)



Could this be something simple like the rotor not sitting straight, the caliper needing to be realigned, or maybe the pads dragging a little after reinstalling the wheel? Any advice on what to check first before I go buy the tools and tear into the caliper?



Thanks in advance
Image
 
#3 · (Edited)
Best to get factory service-manual used by dealer mechanics to repair bike.
It has step-by-step instructions that goes along with parts-diagram like this:
Image


Whenever taking anything apart, take LOTS of photos. Original configuration before anything is taken apart.
Then additional photos whenever single bolt, nut, bracket is disassembled. So you can re-assemble in reverse order.

When putting things back together, ALWAYS makes sure pieces are aligned exactly as they were before disassembly.
Brake-calipers contain 2 brake pads that go on each side of brake-disc.
These pads have holes in backing-plate (green) that does around pin.
This helps keep brake-pad material (red) aligned in caliper to rub on disc properly.

Here's what they should look like before you shove wheel in. Each pad is pulled to outside of caliper to create space in between for disc.

Image


On your bike, you have both brake-pads slid to one side with brake-disc between metal backing-plate of one pad and caliper.
Depending upon amount of damage, you may need new brake-disc, brake-pads and perhaps even caliper.

Image


Get proper tools to work on bike. This is life-or-death scenario. Follow each and every step in service-manual exactly!
Will need torque-wrench and proper torx socket kits.

Since your pads have worn unevenly, you'll need to disassemble caliper and grease slider pins on bracket (purple arrows in diagram above).
Only use high-temp synthetic silicone grease for high-temp operation without drying out and to protect seals #7 & 8 that may need replacing.
Mineral grease made from crude-oil will degrade rubber seals and cause your caliper to stick to one side and apply force to one pad only.

Lay some 2x4 boards under fork-tips to roll and lift wheel up into position between fork-ends.
Don't have to hold wheel one-handed and try to slide it into brake-caliper.
Frees up both your hands to install axle and nut.

Also extremely important order-of-operations to centre wheel in between fork-tubes while keeping them parallel.
 
#4 ·
Best to get factory service-manual used by dealer mechanics to repair bike.
It has step-by-step instructions that goes along with parts-diagram like this:
View attachment 97053

Whenever taking anything apart, take LOTS of photos. Original configuration before anything is taken apart.
Then additional photos whenever single bolt, nut, bracket is disassembled. So you can re-assemble in reverse order.

When putting things back together, ALWAYS makes sure pieces are aligned exactly as they were before disassembly.
Brake-calipers contain 2 brake pads that go on each side of brake-disc.
These pads have holes in backing-plate (green) that does around pin.
This helps keep brake-pad material (red) aligned in caliper to rub on disc properly.

Here's what they should look like before you shove wheel in. Each pad is pulled to outside of caliper to create space in between for disc.

View attachment 97050

On your bike, you have both brake-pads slid to one side with brake-disc between metal backing-plate of one pad and caliper.
Depending upon amount of damage, you may need new brake-disc, brake-pads and perhaps even caliper.

View attachment 97052

Get proper tools to work on bike. This is life-or-death scenario. Follow each and every step in service-manual exactly!
Will need torque-wrench and proper torx socket kits.

Since your pads have worn unevenly, you'll need to disassemble caliper and grease slider pins on bracket (purple arrows in diagram above).
Only use high-temp synthetic silicone grease for high-temp operation without drying out and to protect seals #7 & 8 that may need replacing.
Mineral grease made from crude-oil will degrade rubber seals and cause your caliper to stick to one side and apply force to one pad only.

Lay some 2x4 boards under fork-tips to roll and lift wheel up into position between fork-ends.
Don't have to hold wheel and try to slide it into brake-caliper one-handed.
Frees up both your hands to install axle and nut.
Also extremely important order-of-operations to centre wheel in between fork-tubes while keeping them parallel.
Now that's damn good advice especially about using a board. But how in the heck did he get it to go back together like that