This thread is the start of a compilation of common problems and fixes being undertaken by Miss Mercedes. So let's let her shine as this is something this site has needed for a long time. A one place to go sort of thing. I've turned this into a Sticky so it's the first thing someone looking for answers will find. It's all yours Miss M. Good luck might be in order as I see this as a major undertaking.
My Motorcycle Won't Start, What Do I Need To Do
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hogcowboy
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Adding on folks,
Can't get my CB650 to get going
I've replaced the battery
Drained the fuel, replaced with new premium gas
Carbs have been rebuilt
Spark plugs look good
Had a friend mention the "points or stator" but that is beyond my scope of knowledge
Any advice???
Thanks
Can't get my CB650 to get going
I've replaced the battery
Drained the fuel, replaced with new premium gas
Carbs have been rebuilt
Spark plugs look good
Had a friend mention the "points or stator" but that is beyond my scope of knowledge
Any advice???
Thanks
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1,164 Posts
Well here's the best way to narrow down your issue:
Take carb cleaner or starting fluid and spray a bit into the into the carb from the air filter side. Then try to start the engine. If it fires or tries to fire then your issue is with fuel. If it just cranks with no sign of life, your issue is spark.
Starting fluid is much stronger than carb cleaner so be careful with it.
Spark problems are often needing a new coil, plug, or cdi.
Fuel problems can be petcock, carburetor, fuel pump, or maybe even vacuum (in the case of vacuum operated fuel pumps).
Take carb cleaner or starting fluid and spray a bit into the into the carb from the air filter side. Then try to start the engine. If it fires or tries to fire then your issue is with fuel. If it just cranks with no sign of life, your issue is spark.
Starting fluid is much stronger than carb cleaner so be careful with it.
Spark problems are often needing a new coil, plug, or cdi.
Fuel problems can be petcock, carburetor, fuel pump, or maybe even vacuum (in the case of vacuum operated fuel pumps).
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2 Posts
New forum user here, I've been having trouble starting my 2002 suzuki bandit gsf600s. When I try to turn it over I only get a pitiful crank or two and the lights cut off. The battery reads 12.9V (its only about two years old). The lights come on just fine and it will run fine if I push or jump start it, or start it while its still warm.
This started happening when the weather got hot here past the 70s. Another possibly unrelated issue its been having is idling high (around 3k) and sometimes dying when I give it gas at a light. The carbs are probably due for a clean.
This started happening when the weather got hot here past the 70s. Another possibly unrelated issue its been having is idling high (around 3k) and sometimes dying when I give it gas at a light. The carbs are probably due for a clean.
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27,299 Posts
It would sure be nice and appreciated, if you would introduce yourself to the community in the New Member Introduction forum. Folks tend to open up more if they believe they know someone just a little bit. 👍
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7 Posts
Hi guys,
Also trouble starting my motorcycle.
I'm riding a Yamaha Fazer 1000cc from 2003. Up until now it always started but often after 2-3 tries. (Last big maintenance: 1.5 months ago)
Now yesterday my motorcycle died on me in the middle of the street. I wasn't far yet so I could push back the bike but I'd prefer this not happening when I'm 100 km out.
I started my motorcycle normally. It was the first night freezing over here, so I put the choke full on and started the engine. First go, engine started turning, let it run for about a minute while sorting my gear and then left. Three streets further I was standing in front of the traffic lights and the engine started revving up to about 3500 rpm. A choke is a bit from before my time so I didn't think about reducing the choke to bring down the rpm. Instead I shut down the bike (these traffic lights take a long long long time to turn green). Once they turned green my bike wouldn't start anymore. First times it cranked and coughed once or twice but then nothing. Of course I was in the middle of the street stressing, so I kept trying until the battery eventually died.
In the afternoon I went to buy a trickle charger to charge my battery but I couldn't get my bike started anymore. Everytime the same thing: crank, 1 cough, nothing.
Now I don't know what to do. Should I wait a bit for warmer weahter to try and start it? Should I keep trying?
I'm technical but I don't know anything about motorcycles so any guidance would be appreciated!
And a side question: what to do in the situation I described. Keep trying to start it until the battery is empty? Alternatives?
Have a nice Sunday!
Kael
Also trouble starting my motorcycle.
I'm riding a Yamaha Fazer 1000cc from 2003. Up until now it always started but often after 2-3 tries. (Last big maintenance: 1.5 months ago)
Now yesterday my motorcycle died on me in the middle of the street. I wasn't far yet so I could push back the bike but I'd prefer this not happening when I'm 100 km out.
I started my motorcycle normally. It was the first night freezing over here, so I put the choke full on and started the engine. First go, engine started turning, let it run for about a minute while sorting my gear and then left. Three streets further I was standing in front of the traffic lights and the engine started revving up to about 3500 rpm. A choke is a bit from before my time so I didn't think about reducing the choke to bring down the rpm. Instead I shut down the bike (these traffic lights take a long long long time to turn green). Once they turned green my bike wouldn't start anymore. First times it cranked and coughed once or twice but then nothing. Of course I was in the middle of the street stressing, so I kept trying until the battery eventually died.
In the afternoon I went to buy a trickle charger to charge my battery but I couldn't get my bike started anymore. Everytime the same thing: crank, 1 cough, nothing.
Now I don't know what to do. Should I wait a bit for warmer weahter to try and start it? Should I keep trying?
I'm technical but I don't know anything about motorcycles so any guidance would be appreciated!
And a side question: what to do in the situation I described. Keep trying to start it until the battery is empty? Alternatives?
Have a nice Sunday!
Kael
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13,526 Posts
Most common problem is the battery. But bikes often sit for a while, which creates other problems. I am only going to talk about the battery. In this case Herb, my 1941 Ford tractor.
The other day Herb failed to fire. He cranked over okay but a bit slow. He probably should have fired. BUT. I remember back many years. A tired starter motor, and a tired battery. What happens. The starter motor uses all the available power from the battery. Nothing left for the ignition.
Herb usually fires right away. He has an electronic ignition. Unless that failed, or a wyre came of, the main suspect is the battery. He cranked a bit slow the last time I used him a few weeks ago. I disconnected the solar charging unit and checked the battery. About 13 volts. Let sit for a day. 12.27 volts. That is half flat. Not enough. We need 12.75 or thereabouts for a full charge after sitting a day or two. Pull the battery out and connect to load tester. BAD.
Off to the store. She checked with her load tester. BAD. New battery. Herb fired first crank. Peace and harmony all about.
The battery in Yami sits at 12.85 volts, after two weeks over Christmas. Herb battery was 6 years old.
I did check for fuel at the carb which is gravity fed. UK
The other day Herb failed to fire. He cranked over okay but a bit slow. He probably should have fired. BUT. I remember back many years. A tired starter motor, and a tired battery. What happens. The starter motor uses all the available power from the battery. Nothing left for the ignition.
Herb usually fires right away. He has an electronic ignition. Unless that failed, or a wyre came of, the main suspect is the battery. He cranked a bit slow the last time I used him a few weeks ago. I disconnected the solar charging unit and checked the battery. About 13 volts. Let sit for a day. 12.27 volts. That is half flat. Not enough. We need 12.75 or thereabouts for a full charge after sitting a day or two. Pull the battery out and connect to load tester. BAD.
Off to the store. She checked with her load tester. BAD. New battery. Herb fired first crank. Peace and harmony all about.
The battery in Yami sits at 12.85 volts, after two weeks over Christmas. Herb battery was 6 years old.
I did check for fuel at the carb which is gravity fed. UK
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12 Posts
Some heroes dont wear capes ! @Miss Mercedes @hogcowboys
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4,869 Posts
Good photos of twin port mikuni BSW carburetor service:
teamghettoracing.com
Suzuki Across GSX250F Carb Overhaul (Mikuni BSW27) – TGR: Team Ghetto Racing
teamghettoracing.com
I wold start from checking wires and connectors in aria i work changing oil. Previously turned wire at sensor or connector can be easily snapped by touching one.
Regarding the "check your battery" in this thread: a few months ago I had my Harley die on me out on a ride. I was about 30 miles from home.
A friend came out with a jumpstart box which he confirmed had a good charge on its battery.
But, that did absolutely nothing for my bike.
It seemed like the entire electrical system was dead-- I couldn't get any of the lights to come on, couldn't get the horn to beep. It was almost as if the ignition key circuit was broken or the main fuse coming directly off the battery had blown.
I got my brother to bring that bike over to his garage workshop (which is better equipped than mine) and we tried to jumpstart the bike from a free-standing automobile battery.
Not only wouldn't the bike crank, but again nothing electrical seemed to work on my Harley-- and we had a good connection, with clean battery terminals and strong jumper cable clamps.
Well, when we removed my motorcycle's battery (which was just a hair under three years old) we tested it on the workbench and found that it was bad.
I got a new Walmart battery for $120, same size, same cold cranking amps, and installed it.
Everything on the motorcycle worked correctly after that ! I did a short ride around the neighborhood, and later that day took it out on a 100 mile trip.
I'm not sure what the problem was, specifically how the motorcycle battery could fail so thoroughly and so suddenly... but the solution was a new battery!
P.S. I still find it amazing that putting a second battery, a good battery, wired in parallel to the first one, using jumper cables, did not correct the problem for testing and diagnostic purposes.
A friend came out with a jumpstart box which he confirmed had a good charge on its battery.
But, that did absolutely nothing for my bike.
It seemed like the entire electrical system was dead-- I couldn't get any of the lights to come on, couldn't get the horn to beep. It was almost as if the ignition key circuit was broken or the main fuse coming directly off the battery had blown.
I got my brother to bring that bike over to his garage workshop (which is better equipped than mine) and we tried to jumpstart the bike from a free-standing automobile battery.
Not only wouldn't the bike crank, but again nothing electrical seemed to work on my Harley-- and we had a good connection, with clean battery terminals and strong jumper cable clamps.
Well, when we removed my motorcycle's battery (which was just a hair under three years old) we tested it on the workbench and found that it was bad.
I got a new Walmart battery for $120, same size, same cold cranking amps, and installed it.
Everything on the motorcycle worked correctly after that ! I did a short ride around the neighborhood, and later that day took it out on a 100 mile trip.
I'm not sure what the problem was, specifically how the motorcycle battery could fail so thoroughly and so suddenly... but the solution was a new battery!
P.S. I still find it amazing that putting a second battery, a good battery, wired in parallel to the first one, using jumper cables, did not correct the problem for testing and diagnostic purposes.
Hey, I'm just looking for advice on finding the fault with my Lexmoto LXS 125. It's a bit of a weird one so I'll list it in steps of what happened.
1. Dropped bike after it rolled off the side stand after doing maintenance
2. Managed to ride it over 5 miles before the bracket holding the left footpeg and gear lever snapped so had to ride it home in 1st gear just over 5 miles
3. Few days later, new bracket arrived so fitted it, ran the bike for 5 seconds and turned it off (should have ran it longer).
4. Few days later, was going to run it a while so tried firing it up and wouldn't start. Checked the battery and it had was flat so charged it on a trickle charger over night
5. Day later, battery was fully charged, no fault on optimiser so fitted it and tried starting. Bike cranked but wouldn't fire and them when I let go of starter, it makes the calibrating sound.
6. Tested the battery with a multimeter. 13.3V with bike off, 12.8V when turn key, dropped to 10.5V when cranking and then up to 12.2V which seems normal to me.
Not sure what it could be as it started before the battery died. Want to fix this myself so I can learn how to repair motorbikes but not sure where to start. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.
1. Dropped bike after it rolled off the side stand after doing maintenance
2. Managed to ride it over 5 miles before the bracket holding the left footpeg and gear lever snapped so had to ride it home in 1st gear just over 5 miles
3. Few days later, new bracket arrived so fitted it, ran the bike for 5 seconds and turned it off (should have ran it longer).
4. Few days later, was going to run it a while so tried firing it up and wouldn't start. Checked the battery and it had was flat so charged it on a trickle charger over night
5. Day later, battery was fully charged, no fault on optimiser so fitted it and tried starting. Bike cranked but wouldn't fire and them when I let go of starter, it makes the calibrating sound.
6. Tested the battery with a multimeter. 13.3V with bike off, 12.8V when turn key, dropped to 10.5V when cranking and then up to 12.2V which seems normal to me.
Not sure what it could be as it started before the battery died. Want to fix this myself so I can learn how to repair motorbikes but not sure where to start. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.
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7,422 Posts
Normal for dead battery.
1. resting state of lead-acid is 12.6v and takes about 24hrs to get there after removing charger
2. dropping to 10.5v when cranking means battery has very little storage capacity, no reserve
3. dropping to 10.5v when cranking means ECU is doesn't have enough power to operate, no lower than 11.5v for modern EFI systems
4. no ECU functionality means no petrol is injected and no sparks fired, starter is hogging all power
5. battery not returning to 12.8v after cranking means its limited capacity has been drained
6. 12.2v is dead battery
Review these related threads. Make note of test and measured numbers.
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=368961 - jumpstart test
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=335199 - 13.6v
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=74813
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=61661 - charging fixed
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=113945
https://www.motorcycleforum.com/threads/battery-problem.95559/#post-634109
https://www.motorcycleforum.com/threads/new-battery.122626 - 14.21v
https://www.motorcycleforum.com/threads/starting-problems.80408/#post-485100
https://www.mvagusta.net/threads/bi.../threads/bike-wont-start-battery-voltage-12-52-really-not-enough-voltage.41789/
For reference of "normal" and "working" battery, here's my battery-voltage on VFR after 4-months winter storage (lithium, no battery-tender needed).
Turn on key for 10s and wait for pump to prime carbs. Push start, spins for 2-revolution and >VRRROOom<
My battery voltage during cranking is higher than yours with ZERO load. You most certainly have bad battery
Most modern day bikes unless having a magneto system need 10.5 - 11 volts to start, the ignition systems will not fire without a hot spark, another case in point, the Harley M8s need 2 complete revolutions of the crank with compression releases working to fire
Thanks for your reply. The battery was the only thing that made sense since it happened after the battery went flat so thanks for clearing that up. Just don't understand why my optimiser not detecting a fault and battery seems to charge fairly quickly. Will order a new upgraded battery.
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