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How to Care For the Slide Diaphragm

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15K views 8 replies 8 participants last post by  72BlueGT550  
#1 ·
I have been doing some research that started with how to make it easier to keep the diaphragm seated in the carb body while attaching the top of the carb back on. I had been using grease, until; I came across several website that advice against it. The said ANY petroleum based chemical would damage the rubber of the diaphragm and the only safe thing to use was silicone. For the past few days I have been messing with needle settings and have been using the silicone and it seems to work wonders.

I stumbled across an auto detailing site that was discussing rubber protection for door and window seals and the debate was whether water based silicone or a silicone with a petroleum base or cleaner in it was the better choice. As it happened the thread starter had a father who was high up in Delphi Automotive and was an engineer for decades with GM and was in charge of the rubber components in the cars. His conclusion and then the consensus of the following detailers based on their experience convinced me that Dielectric silicone was the clear, proven, and chemically designed way to protect any rubber, or vinyl, based materials.

Now back to the carb guy. He mentioned that silicone was not only the only way to safely secure the diaphragm but that for years he has used it to add life into failing, dried, and stiff carb diaphragms. He suggested that you coat the diaphragms with Dielectric silicone one both sides and then close them individually in zip lock bag and let them sit for a day or two sealed in the bags at room temperature. then, I reason, gently wipe them off and put them back into the carb.

This link is to the discussion on silicone and rubber protection

http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-de...g-product-discussion/106599-fact-myth-conflicting-info-rubber-care-silicon.html

This link is to the carb guy, which by the way could be its own thread. It is the single best thread on carb cleaning, rebuilding, and care that I have come across for bike manufactured between the late 70’s until 2004. Go about half way down the page and he describes very well and in great detail, but easy to understand and supported with pictures of everything he is doing or talking about. It is a fantastic thread.

http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3271098&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=1

Let me know if you have had similar experience with you bike.
 
#4 ·
Hey SlightlyOffAxis,

I'm reading the post by carb guy right now and I see that he is really adamant about cleaning the pilot screws. My Clymer manual says nothing of this and in fact says that further disassembly is a BAD idea.

Carb guy does go on about the importance of noting the position of the screws by tightening first, recording turns, and then loosening.

I'm in the process of cleaning my carbs right now and I;m not sure If I should pull out the pilot screws to clean 'em.

Anyone have any opinions?

PS. I just looked at the rack, it seems the previous owner had messed with them because the anti-tamper plate is gone, so maybe it's worth taking them out and cleaning em?
 
#5 ·
Absolutely....Clean 'em!
The reason your Clymer's doesn't mention them is....legal.
Which is why the factory installs a lead plug over them after adjusting them ultra-lean (for the EPA "Greenies")
Pull the damn lead plugs out, remove and clean the needles, springs and metal washer, and replace the teeny, tiny O-ring. Re-set the needles to the original setting (you determined this by turning the needle carefully clockwise and counting the half-turns until the needle LIGHTLY bottoms) and recording each reading before removing. Bear in mind this will likely be way too lean for best performance, but all things being equal, the bike should run the way it did previously before you tune for optimum performance. I use a Color-Tune when I can, but have done it by ear before I had one so it is possible.
Long story short: You can't adequately "clean" a carb without cleaning one of the most important features of the idle circuit outside of the pilot jet...the mixture circuit.
 
#7 ·
Cleaning Pilot Screws

Yes, be sure to clean them. Count the number of turns it takes to bottom them out. It should be 3-4 turns and you want to slowly tighten them so as not to damage the tips. I started left to right as seated on the bike and took each one out.

There is a screw, spring, o-ring, and washer, that needs to come out of each one. I ended up using a thin set of hemostats, that I would close and slide into the pilot jet hole and then open them slightly to catch the spring, washer, and o-ring to pull them out without damaging them.

I cleaned each part with sea foam and or a good gas treatment like Chevron with Techron (BUT NOT THE O-RING) and then a thin coat of oil, a drop on my finger that I used by smearing on each part. I cleaned the o-ring and put the grease discussed above on them, dialectic grease, a couple dollars for a tube at any auto parts store, or hardware store.

I also cleaned out each pilot jet opening with the cleaner and q-tips.

If you find any of the o-rings or jets are damaged let me know I believe I have spares and I'll just put them in the mail for you on me.

You can go to my face book page, wolfpengapcafe and I have pictures and a description of what I did. If you need any help along the way pm me and I will talk you through it. Its not really hard but it is easy to feel lost.