My philosophy on idle mixture screws: If the bike is stock and the compression is up to spec, the stock setting is probably adequate, maybe a little richer if needed. You shouldn't have to depart from there too much unless you change something or something isn't working the way it should. Also, all cylinders should be set the same. Don't have one at 1 1/4 and one at 1 3/4 and one at 2 etc. Synchronizing a bike's carbs goes beyond just setting all the throttle balance screws with a vacuum rack. All float levels should be identical, and all idle mixtures should be identical. Otherwise, the imbalance will give you idle issues, floating etc.

About the conflicting info from everyone: That's how it goes. It's tough to diagnose a problem by phone or internet. Without seeing it, most of us are just guessing.

 

Completely stock?

Does a K&N filter and 4into2 exhaust count as completely stock? I've got 2 buddies that have them with 4into1's and obviously the K&N filter is aftermarket. Anyhow, I just put the idle screw back where it was when I took them off - all 4 carbs at 1-3/4 out. Hoping to get the tank back on tonight, and try it out. I'll post when I try that.

 

it aint perfect, but better than before!

So, I set all my idle screws back where they were when I pulled them out (1-3/4 turns back), reinstalled my tank and fired her up. SOOOO much better than it was. I didn't have time to take it for a real ride, but ran it for a good 20 minutes - seemed to be pretty good!!!! Not perfect - but you have to be idling a long time and paying very close attention to notice the idle bouncing around between about 1250-2000. And, it drops right back to idle when you let off - which was a problem before. Anyhow, I'll repost after I get a real ride.

 

You were too lean. Turn the fuel screws out another 1/4 turn or so and you'll be golden.

Remember: When the idle doesn't drop like it should, it's lean. If the idle drops too far, then rises, it's too rich. Usually.

 

Thanks pintslayer - I think you're bang on. I just got back from a real ride and its lightyears better than before. It still takes a bit longer than I'd like to drop back to idle, so I'm going to take them back another 1/4 and see what happens. I sure am glad I had the sense to take it for a ride before putting all that plastic back on - makes it some hard to adjust anything with it all on.

 

Never adjust anything on your carb with the engine cold and never put all the plastic bits back on 'til you're sure you're done.

 

I'm trying to make myself a tool that will let me reach under the carbs and adjust the idle screws without pulling them off the bike - otherwise it's pretty hard to do anything to them while they're hot. It's pretty congested under there.
As for the plastic - I couldn't agree more. Unfortunately, I had to duct tape my blinkers on so I was at least close to road legal while I went for this most recent drive!

 

I worked as a tech for a long time, and fuel screws were the bane of my existence. I finally took a 1/4 drive flat screwdriver bit and JBWelded it to a penny. Then I took my diagonal cutters and cut a tiny wedge out of the side of the penny. That way I could feel how many turns I was making by feeling where the cut was. Worked pretty slick.