More pics of the broken piece and where it is suppose to attach to the body might help .

 

The butt end of the nipple looks clean and fine to me. You can see the empty socket that I pulled it out of. It should look just like the nipple on the right. I don’t know how these were originally manufactured. Was it held in with solder? Epoxy? I really don’t know.

if anyone has some advice or ideas or if you need more pics let me know.

 

It looks like it was a press fit. Does it fit back in the hole tightly? If you are looking for really bad advice that would work with some finesse I'll post it later.

What bike or petcock are we talking about. Maybe someone here can source it. Replacement is a solid option.

 

That nipple was pressed in. If you remove all the rubber parts, like the seal inside the valve, you can bake it in an oven to increase the size of the hole, then press the nipple back in.
Be careful with the screws that hold the valve together, as they have JIS type heads, and if you use a Phillip's driver you can strip them.

 

...
Be careful with the screws that hold the valve together, as they have JIS type heads, and if you use a Phillip's driver you can strip them.

This is the best advice you are getting in this thread. He ain't kidding.

 

Agreed , it looks to be a press fit .
I'd clean the mating surfaces and see how tight it fits . Then remove and apply a bit of Loctite Green retaining compound and re-install . Maybe a tap with a hammer for good measure .

 

BTW, the bike is a cb160

 

cb160 new fuel petcock - Google Search​

 

The loctite under some circumstances can take too long to cure. Use like JB weld epoxy and glue it back in and the joint was simply press fit to begin with. Test fit to see if it has some tightness, if so clean it without sanding (which will loosen the fit) and then glue it and let sit 24 hrs. You can get better glue bite by rolling the tube that came out in sandpaper ONE time to sand AROUND the tube to give the glue something to hold onto. If tube is too loose then find something round and tapered to slightly tap into tube to open the end up a bit to increase the interference fit but BE CAREFUL, easy to go too far, only talking .005" or so. The fit is right if part does not slip in but light hammer tapping then installs it easily. Gas slowly degrades JB weld but the limited exposure to the total glue length there could mean years of use before the tube gets loose again, it takes the fuel that long to work its' way all the way down the tube to get it loose again.

I glued countless tubes like this into carburetors over the years, I cannot count and they all ran forever after the repair.

How do people have so much trouble stripping out screw heads on JIS/phillips screws? I know about the tip difference but I grab any phillips laying around and never strip screws ever in 50 years now working on old Japanese stuff. I don't have any specialty JIS tools at all. ???? Quit buying cheap cr-p Chinese non-hardened steel phillips drivers to wear the tips to strip screws is how you stop that. Look at your driver tips and you'll know why those screw heads strip.

 

Yes, I've just pressed them back in without heat, but used a clamp or vice instead of a hammer. It's too easy for me to strike it a bit off-center.

 

Typical British style, is to heat the oven to 350 for the aluminium part, and freeze the bit that needs to be bunged in. UK

 

X2, How I install FWD axle bearings in hubs, again with a hammer. Haven't lost one yet but everybody else has fits doing it without damage. Hub heats with a torch and bearing goes in the freezer then run like the dickens to get them together. 3-4 whacks of hammer commonly puts the bearing all the way in, you have maybe 5-7 seconds before it seizes up. .

On the petcock a proper sized C-clamp and maybe washers for support will work well and it gives feedback as to how tight the fitting goes in. If done right the epoxy is only insurance, the part may well seal without it, but you only want to re-press a pressfit part ONCE as you lose more interference every time it comes back apart.

 

The same problem is seen with old Beetle carbs. Ever seen or heard of a old air-cooled VW on the side of the road on fire? Same problem, the friction fit nipple comes out of the carb, and gas is pumped out all over the engine. (yes, mine was loose and ready to come out)

What I did with mine is epoxy it in, and then staked it. There, glue helps, but staking it makes it more secure.

 

A dull tap that is half off size to barely bite the hole material can work too, the same thing as knurling and the half threads hold the glue in place.