Used to be best to let the paint cure for 30 days to get to full strength so to speak. Modern paint uses hardners so might be able to skip that, mayhaps. Might consider some nice "white gloves" to handle the parts and go very slow on re assembly.

 

Thanks so much Aphrodite - it will be past 30 days on the reassembly, and I'll certainly go slow. I'm really thinking of laying everything out so I don't forget and miss a piece that needs to be installed *between* the frame and the part - you know, really thinking it through. I also thought of putting blue painter's tape in the area that will rub against the supporting member...what do you think of that idea?

Again, many thanks!

Maitai

 

Tape is not a bad idea really IMO.

 

Thank you Aphrodite

 

I've always used the blue painter's tape if there's any chance of parts rubbing or touching during re-assembly. Also, if you have any threaded fasteners that might have been painted, such as welded on nuts on a part, take a few minutes and run a tap through them to make sure there's no paint or over-spray left in the threads. Use air to blow out chips and be careful not to use solvents or oils that can run onto painted parts.

Take your time and do careful work and don't be afraid to stop and think and contemplate before you do something. You'll be anxious to see results, of course, but you're not under the usual pressure of producing, so just take a breath every now and then and don't be afraid to step back and do something else while you evaluate stuff.

 

No/Angel,

Honestly, thank you so much for all that advice...I thought painter's tape MIGHT have affected the finish of the paint, but not anymore; I'm confident of its usefulness thanks to you and Aphrodite. I'm inspired to start laying out all my parts (not the painted pieces, but the things that need to go back on in addition to them) so I can start gaming this whole thing - and I also thank you for that patience reminder. I can be both impatient and a bit anxious, so doing absolutely everything I can to make this a success is not only good advice - it should be a given.

Again - many thanks!

Maitai

 

Oh, and I will post pics when she's done

 

Which Boulevard? There may be some bike specific advice that might be helpful. I just went through this process last year with an LC which is the predecessor of the C-90

 

Wow, thank you Bedub - I have a C90 - it would be great to hear what you have to say. I know the fenders rubbed quite a bit coming off...but any help you might be able to provide me with would be greatly appreciated - thank you!

Maitai

 

So, it's much easier if you have the bike on a jack and have the wheels removed when putting it back together. Completely remove one of the rear fender struts and loosely attach the connected side first, then reattach the other fender strut. It's about avoiding sliding the painted parts between the metal parts. The Faux tanks and side covers are no problem.

 

Oh, and I'm also looking for a used G-tank to expand the gas capacity, if anyone has one for sale. They no longer make them.

 

Yeah, Gary quit making them, you're only gonna find one by stumbling across someone selling one. Hope it's not against forum rules to post a different forum, but you can check here:

http://forums.delphiforums.com/RLCMC

 

Hi Bedub,

Thanks so much for your replies, and I'm sorry I'm so late getting back to you! In fact, I just got the bike back today and will give it a thorough cleaning (especially hard-to-get-to places on the frame) before I start reassembly - but you've given me some great tips, so thank you. I have the left and right frame handle grips off for the rear - and I might just be able to mount one then do as you mentioned with bolting (loosely) the rear fender, then the other frame handle grip in order to make that particular job easier. For the front, it's going to be blue painter's tape until I get some threads started, then carefully tear it out while I gently torque them down. At this stage in my motorcycle experience, I do not feel that comfortable taking both wheels off - but I do believe the tips I've received here will help to make me successful.

Also, a buddy of mine was very careful to note that I should get everything threaded before gently tightening anything to torque specs. He said repeated tightening/loosening could crack the paint, although I believe paint has gotten better and better performance-wise, so there might be some better flexibility in today's market.

To Bedub - and everyone who responded - I will certainly proceed with all your comments in mind - everything will be printed so I can have it readily available for reference during the rebuild. Many, many thanks to you all!

Once I'm done, I will post pics for all to see

Best,

Maitai

 

Hi Everyone,

I'm trucking along and have come up with a bit of a roadblock - the rear turning signals/running lights (both) do not work. Luckily, the rear fender is assembled, but not yet installed. Also, the front turning signals both WORK, but flash very quickly. I'll be starting a thread in the electrical section - but I wanted you to know I'm proceeding very slowly - but surely with the reassembly. Getting the brake, turning lights, and license plate bracket has been a great relief; I've used all the tips you gave me here. So, for now, the rear fender is sitting on a box and plugged into the connector until I can figure it out. Chat soon.

Tim