Vance and Hines can probably give you the correct settings to use with their products. Shoot them an email.

 

They said they only support their Fuelpak product and didn't offer any help what so ever. Guess I'm stuck!

 

Call TTS and not Kuryakn. They just sell them and don't have the technical support you need. TTS should be able to help you learn how to use the V-tune feature.

 

Well TTS got back to me and told me that they didn't have any calibrations for my setup except the A/C only but not the pipes and that I should learn how to use the V-Tune software and didn't offer any help.

I tried reading up on it and using it but I don't know what the hell I'm doin...

I guess I'm stuck until they create a map for my bike's setup.

 

Don't take this the wrong way, but how familiar are you with the Harley EFI systems and using various aftermarket fuel controllers?

 

Only what I've read about them over the past couple months. They (fuel MGMT manufacturers) make it seem so easy, "connect, find year, make, model with modifications you've made, and drive.". Apparently, its, not that simple. And no worries, looking to get all the help I can get.

 

Some of them are pretty simple, but not the one you picked.

The Mastertune is basically an improved Harley Screamin' Eagle Race Tuner. When Harley stopped offering the SERT, I was told TTS made some changes to it and now sells it as the Mastertune. I used mostly Power Commanders and Fuel Paks, and have never installed a Mastertune, but I did go to a TTS update class a few years ago and I am sure I still have my notes. I'll be happy to scan them or type them out, and that might get you going in the right direction.

I think to use the V-tune feature you have to have the Mastertune and it's software installed as well as their data logging software, I can't remember off-hand. It might take me a day or two but I'll dig up my notes see if that jogs any dead brain cells.

 

That would be awesome thank you. Yes, I do have all the software installed and updated. Mastertune, V-Tune, Flight recorder etc,...

 

If you're gonna mod your motor you need to find a qualified tuner with a dyno. Otherwise you're as likely to LOSE power and performance as you are to gain it. and equally likely to DAMAGE your motor from running excessively lean in certain regimes.

one more time, louder:

YOU NEED TO FIND A QUALIFIED TUNER WITH A DYNO IF YOU'RE GOING TO MOD YOUR MOTOR.

Oh, so you plan on doing a lot of reading, studying, and becoming your own expert. (snicker, snicker). Good luck with that. 5 minutes spent with a pro will convince you....no way I could have learned all that in 10 years.. Unless I was the one traveling around the country with the dyno...working on hundreds of biks per year...

but start with Dr Dyno's articles...

http://www.drdyno.com/

 

I found my notes and typed them up because even I could barely read my chicken scratches. As I said, I’ve done the Power Commanders and Fuel Paks and older SERTS, but never used the Master Tune. The shop I was at had a Dyno 250i so I never had to install one with a laptop bungeed to the seat, but it seems to me that you should be able to get pretty good results even though it might take a little longer. It looks like it will be fun and you’ll save the cost of a dyno tune!

Okay, these are from a few years ago:

(Run the software updater to make sure you have most current updates!)

1. Connect to the 4 pin HD data port. (You can use an older SERT or SEST cord.)

2. Save the factory ECM calibration to file

a. Start Master Tune-HD
b. Choose menu item “File/Save or Restore Factory Calibratin.”
c. Get ECM info
d. Choose “Command / Save ECM calibration.”​

3. Use Master Tune-HD to choose and install the closest starting calibration from the MT files. Use Master Tune Cal File Listing to locate.

a. Start Master Tune-HD
b. Choose base tuning file to be installed.
c. Choose “File/Program ECM” menu item and install the base tuning file to the ECM. (I’m guessing you’ve already gotten this far, yes?)​

4. Start engine and warm up.

5. Use DataMaster to record VTune Data

a. From the File menu, choose “Record VTune Data”
b. Choose filename to write data to. Default name is easy.
c. Test the interface with “Get ECM Info.” If you can get ECM info you have good commo.
d. Record the tuning data.​

Secure the computer and take a short ride. (Make sure it doesn’t go into sleep or hibernation mode when you close the top!)
Accelerate slowly and smoothly, don’t goose it.
Ride through as full a range of throttle conditions as you can, but no sudden accelerations.
Don’t shut off the bike until you stop recording data.​

6. Use VTune to generate a new calibration map.

a. Launch VTune.
b. Select the calibration file loaded in the ECM and the VTune data file recorded in the last step and “Generate Tune.”
c. The new calculated VE tables for front and rear cylinders will display indicating a range of calculated changes.
d. Choose “Accept” and generate the new calibration file.
e. Install the new calibration file into the ECM as in step 3 above using MasterTune.​

7. Do it again! Record new VTune Data with DataMaster-HD (step 5 again), and use VTune-HD to calculate new calibration (Step 6 again). When the new VE tables are displayed, hit “Accept” and generate a new calibration file. Each time the changes should be smaller. Install, record again and recalculate again. You will likely have to do a total of at least 3 times.


I didn’t write down what version this was for but I want to remember it was for a MT6? 7? If you have a newer version they have likely added a bunch more bells and whistle, but the basic process should be about the same so maybe this will get you close. I’d think it should but like I said I’m not a Master Tune guy. (A lot of people love them though.)

Also, some of the newer Big Twins now use Lambda values instead of AFR data but your Sportster hopefully hasn’t changed to that yet. It’s no big deal if your tuner will read it correctly, but it makes it harder to look at a VE table and get an idea of which cell might be lean or rich so you can adjust by eye. Lambda numbers mean absolutely nothing to me!

Hey, let me know how it works out for you!

 

Thank you for this appreciate it.

I think it is using the Lamda type data. Every document (instructions) I've seen on the net looked nothing to what I'm looking at. That is where I'm stuck

For example, when the document says to adjust each cell to 14.6, I only see .989 and cannot go up to 14.6.

The more I read the more I'm understanding what needs to be done. If I can't get help from the manufacturer, I'll try a V-Tune session very soon as I'm running lean right now.

 

Most of the fuel tables use lamda. Lamda always equals 1 for a 14.7:1 (Stochiometric) So your .989 is is roughly 14.5:1

I am linking a google page of information on tuning

https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#newwindow=1&q=fuel+air+adjustment+tables

 

Good post, Critter.

Like I said, I'm not used to looking at Lambda tables, and wouldn't know what's close enough and what's not even close.

I guess I'm old, stuck in my ways, cranky, and don't like change.

 

Thanks guys appreciate all the help!