Welcome to The Forum, do you have spark?

 

it's started right up before i redid the stator and stuff so i don't see how the spark plugs could go bad or anything, what else could it be?

 

Do you hear fuel-pump prime for 2-3s after turning key ON and kill-switch to RUN?
Are you getting spark at plugs?
Pull and measure all fuses. I'd be trillionaire if I had penny for every time I heard,
"Fuse looks OK!" but actually doesn't conduct any electricity at all.

 

Dude
Never hold a plug cap barehanded when checking for spark.
Two good reasons.
The first reason is to protect the ignition system.
The second reason can be quite entertaining to watch so it almost cancels out the first reason, but don't do it anyway...

S F

 

i did have to lift the tank and battery was removed, i'll check under the tank and see if anything got disconnected and check all the fuses as well

 

i checked under the tank, nothing lose or anything, checked fuses, fuel pump seems to be priming by the sound in the video, there half a tank of gas, not sure what else to do lol i'm sure it's something small to🤣

 

bike would start up but die cause it needed a stator and rectifier, now it won't turn over, i got two codes from the bike c28 c46 how is this even possible..

Let's keep everything in same thread for logical flow. We may need to refer back to earlier posts.

Many, many components are interconnected on bike. Just disconnecting and reconnecting battery can generate surges and sparks which can zap sensors and wiring. Just lifting and lowering tank can yank on vacuum hoses and wiring. Extremely common on CBRs to yank and disconnect MAP sensor's vacuum hose with right-hand when lowering tank. That's why I always do it left-handed while standing on left side of bike.

In your case, threading through wiring for new stator and RR can easily have pulled on some other wiring. EFI system uses extremely fine wiring and small connectors to carry tiny signals. Additionally, many components share similar plugs that can be cross-connected improperly. For example, the CMP (cam position) sensor uses similar connector to STP sensor and can get mixed up. Or the AP sensor vs. TP sensor. Did you have to disconnect & reconnect any other plugs other than stator and RR connectors?

 

bike would start up but die cause it needed a stator and rectifier, now it won't turn over, i got two codes from the bike c28 c46 how is this even possible..

Let's keep everything in same thread for logical flow. We may need to refer back to earlier posts.

Many, many components are interconnected on bike. Just disconnecting and reconnecting battery can generate surges and sparks which can zap sensors and wiring. Just lifting and lowering tank can yank on vacuum hoses and wiring. Extremely common on CBRs to yank and disconnect MAP sensor's vacuum hose with right-hand when lowering tank. That's why I always do it left-handed while standing on left side of bike.

In your case, threading through wiring for new stator and RR can easily have pulled on some other wiring. EFI system uses extremely fine wiring and small connectors to carry tiny signals. Additionally, many components share similar plugs that can be cross-connected improperly. For example, the CMP (cam) sensor uses similar connector to STP sensor and can get mixed up. Or the AP sensor vs. TP sensor. Did you have to disconnect & reconnect any other plugs other than stator and RR connectors?

only thing i had to unplug was the fuel injectors to unscrew the clamps for the airbox but there back on 100%, i looked at the valves, there was a secondary throttle valve delete, so guessing that's why there's a code so less worried now

 

How long has secondary throttle been removed? In cases like this, you'd install dummy load to emulate valve to keep ECU from complaining.

Did you re-connect all injectors in proper order?

Other code is for exhaust valve actuator. Is that still installed and connected?

 

no idea how long it's been removed, actuator is still installed and connected, injectors all reconnected right, i'm starting to think it's not getting a spark? but it says online if there's no spark it wouldn't crank? so i'm confused, maybe the spark plugs and coils need to be redone? since the stator and recifier was?

 

Get a spark tester, they are around $15.00

 

Not the stator.
The stator is only a part of the charging system. It's only function is create electricity that is then used to keep the battery up and fully charged. Only way a bad stator can keep a machine from running is if it lets the battery go down / get so weak that the ignition system cannot produce a spark. Verify the battery then begin testing
Reminds me... First Test:
Does It Have Spark? (Important Need-to-Know)

S F

 

Report findings of above tests as you do them. Most important are:

2. Battery terminals tight? What is battery voltage when cranking engine?

4. Do you have spark? What colour?

 

Put gas in the tank.

 

there's half a tank 🤣

 

Welcome to The Forum, do you have spark?

i don't see how the spark plugs could go bad or anything, what else could it be?

But,
Does it have spark?

Get a spark tester, they are around $15.00

View attachment 97075

Check for actual spark at plugs.

i'm starting to think it's the stator

First Test:
Does It Have Spark? (Important Need-to-Know)

4. Do you have spark? What colour?

there's half a tank 🤣

Go ahead. Check for spark. (Seems some of us are kinda stuck on that)

S F

 

Go ahead. Check for spark. (Seems some of us are kinda stuck on that)

S F

OP needs to answer this question instead of dwelling on the stator
If it ain't got good hot spark it ain't going to start

 

Not the stator.
The stator is only a part of the charging system. It's only function is .......

No, stator has nothing to do with starting bike

...... instead of dwelling on the stator

is there a possibility this is from the cheap ebay stator? $30 unbranded i know you said it doesn't have anything to do with it but online it says a faulty stator will cause no spark i'm just so confused

No

do this test of charging system. Post the .........

no no no
We need to stop dwelling on the stator. You'll never verify anything about the charging system until you can get the thing to run...!
Very unlikely component/s failed for no reason while you had the stator out. That certainly has and does happen but it is more likely something got pulled, touched or otherwise damaged while doing the stator R&R job. Although, I have had a component fail because I only touched it or maybe brushed something against something. It can happen and it is always hard for the customer to understand how a wire (or anything) can be fine until the bike came into my work area. That is THE reason I stopped taking in Japanese bikes older than about 10 years of age. That, and Discontinued Partz to... This machine is 18.! You're most likely searching for an old age problem, most likely.
Before doing a bunch of testing, I'd closely inspect all the wires plugs and such near the stator area of machine for possible damage. OLD components and OLD wiring on that machine have been touched so inspect closely..

S F

 

Yes, don't waste any more time on stator as it's absolutely not at fault for no-start condition.
Was hoping to get that through somehow, but might be futile.
Bring horse to water and all.

Bottom line is something might have gotten knocked out of whack with this stator/RR job.
Retrace your steps and closely inspect every wire and connector that was touched in process.

Although I still suspect battery since it was old battery that had been depleted and run down who knows how many times previously by bad charging system. Each time it's drained, that shortens lifespan of battery. It never recovers completely to take full charge again. If you don't want to take 5-sec to verify its condition, just get new battery and charge it up with smart-charger for 24-hrs before using. Because new batteries don't come dully-charged and ready to go.

 

i fixed it, the aftermarket ebay stator gasket is way to thin, not giving enough clearance for the starter to spin

 

Here is another case of not enough info to begin with, complete waste of time IMO

 

i mean who would know that?🤣 i didn't leave any info out, i stated all i did was replace a stator, i wouldn't say waste of time at all

 

Good job figuring that out!!! 👋

Did you see any scraping/scuffing marks on stator or magnets or inside of case cover?
I suppose this is another aftermarket vs stock OEM comparison where dimensions might be slightly off.

 

Your Friendly Suzy Repair Man

-And it's FIXED! -

SemiFast