This engine is kind of cold-hearted, so, until it is warmed up, it will hesitate, unless you leave the 'choke' out enough to just raise the rpm from idle. Idle rpm should be 1100-1200 rpm, and if it is lower it will also stumble. If it sat long enough, you could have some minor blockage in the carb circuits; I recommend treating the tank with Seafoam a couple times, and run with the petcock on reserve for 10 or 20 miles with the treated gas.

Any idea of the maintenance history of the bike? Was the rear drive oil replaced at 600 miles? Carb sync done, ever? How about air filters? Is the clutch and brake fluid clear, or does it look like coffee? These all need to be addressed, if you don't know. Also, use a JASO-rated motorcycle oil, so it doesn't mess with your clutch. You can get Rotella T6 at WalMart, or pay the big $ at your dealer for their oil. I don't recommend auto oils any more, because the 'energy conserving' stuff has been around so long, I'm not sure it's always labeled as such.

 

It stumbles or hesitates a little as I'm releasing the clutch and coming out of first gear. After that it seems fine.

Hopefully carb adjustments won't be necessary.....except maybe for upping the idle speed a bit.....and getting used to leaving the choke partly ON until it warms up.

Adjusting the friction collar on the choke knob is VERY important too.

Putting some real carb cleaner in the gas might help perk it up a bit as you ride it through a tank of gas. Gumout and Berrymans B12 Chemtool are probably the best cleaners.

 

Ghost rider - I tightened the friction collar the other day and it helped a lot. I'll try some carb cleaner as well.


Wintrsol - Yes, i am finding out the cold bloodedness of these bikes. Similar to my 1981 Kawasaki 550 LTD was back in the day. I do not know the history of the bike. What I do know is whoever owned it before me kept it pretty darn cleaned and polished. So I have no choice but to use that as an indicator of how well he/she maintained it. The Clutch and brake fluid reservoir windows show they're both very clean. Oil as well.

The local dealer (didn't buy it from them) can do a 15,000 mile service which will include changing the air filters, oil, carb adjust (if/as required), drain and fill the rear drive uniit. And whatever else it may include. I plan on doing this maybe this weekend.

If nothing else, it will give me peace of mind knowing everything is back on schedule, if you know what I'm saying.

My co-worker suggested I may want to try re-gapping my plugs to .035 instead of .032, as this may help smooth out that hesitation (a little bigger spark when it's cold). I'll give that a try and see what happens. It can't hurt to try anyway.

Thanks guys for the input. It is very much appreciated.

Bruce H.
Auburn, wa.

 

Ghost rider - I tightened the friction collar the other day and it helped a lot.

I finally had to take a pair of pliers to mine and get it REAL tight before it would stay closed all the way for starting....and running the first few seconds.

 

Wintersol, just curious... Why do you recommend running with the petcock on reserve? Whatever fuel treatment he puts in should mix with the other gas, should it not? It won't go to the bottom of the tank where the reserve pickup is.

 

Most fuel has ethanol in it these days, and it combines with water in the air and settles to the bottom of the tank. Running on reserve from time to time, especially with a cleaner in it, will draw any that has collected out, so the next time you actually need reserve, it won't be mostly water.

 

Well, I had my carbs adjusted at a local MC repair place. What a huge difference. The thing purrs like a kitten now. No more stumble/hesitation coming out of first gear. I ended up changing the oil and doing the front brakes myself. Saved me a nice chunk of money in that area. About the only thing left for me to have done are the rear brakes. I will be having that done this weekend.

Thanks for all the great input.

Bruce H.
Auburn, Wa.