I probably won't be able to offer any help but could you describe the condition of the idle? Does it idle steady? At what speed? Choke?

 

Idle is steady at 1500 rpm. With and without choke.

I just checked compression.

150 on the cold side (right) that does not kick in until about 4000 rpm
100 on the left side. Exhaust is WHITE also on the left side.
Very little smoke from the right side, even when above 4000 rpm.

 

Are the carbs properly synched ?

That is also quite a difference in compression.....

 

That IS quite a difference - did you open the throttle fully to run the test? If not, that could be a measure of how far the carbs are out of sync, or, perhaps, the boot that holds the carb on is leaking.
If the throttle was open, maybe you have a valve adjustment issue.

 

I did not touch the trottle when checking the compression.

Also,
I looked all over the CLymers manual. I did not see anythign to synch the carbs besides the air mixture valve adjustment. That adjustment does not make a difference. The RPM don;t change when I turn that valve. It only turns from 8am to 4pm anyway.

Could someone please point me in the right direction here?

I will spray around the boots when the bike is idling tomorrow to check for leaks.

I should do the compresison test with the trottle/carbs all the way open?

I just pulled both plugs and tested.

Also, I am not sure there is a valve adjustment per cylinder. I will check.

 

Always perform a compression with the throttle wide open - you don't get good compression readings if you restrict the flow of air.

By adjusting sync, we mean to make sure the throttles are in exactly the same position, air-flow wise, when resting on the idle set screws, and when the throttle holds them partially open. This is most easily done if you have vacuum test ports on the carbs. Without test ports, you have to do it the old-school way, assuming you have separate exhaust: hold your palms behind the exhaust outlets and compare pressure. The object is to make them both feel the same, so 'calibrate' your hands by swapping them from side to side.

Also, if your bike has dual points, it's tough to get them both timed correctly, but off-timing will also cause misfires on one side.

 

Thanks. Yes, I have to get the vacuum gauges. I see some on eBay but there are not a lot out there to chose form. Any suggestions?
So I ran seafoam through the bad carb and turned the idle set screw pretty far out. Now at around 2000 idle speed the right carb is kicking in sporadically. I did adjust the left idle set screw as mentioned in the clymers to where the idle does not get any higher. Left side still smokes white, but I believe that is because of low compression and therefor burining oil. Bike has 21k miles. I will probably end up pulling the carbs one more time and checking the idle jet airflow.

 

Basically, any pair of matched gauges will work fine. Look to see if they have clamping screws that limit the flow, in-line with the gauges. Tightening these will damp out the needle shake. Also, you should T them together, and use a vacuum source, like a Mity Vac, to pull them through the range, just to note how well matched they are. The point of the vacuum sync is to get the same on both sides; you can only tell when they match if you know what the gauges read with the same input.

 

If they don't have damping gauges, you can make a damper out of two hose barbs and capped section of PVC filled with cotton. You basically just want a little in-line restriction/volume

 

The Synch on the 360 carb is way up on top where the throttle cables fasten to the linkage. A Honda manual is also in order. there is a special tool that will allow you to do the adjustment and it is really a screwdriver that is on the inside of a verry deep well socket . So if you look on top of all that and find a threaded rod with a screw slot on the end and that threaded rod has a hex nut to lock it,you have found the synch screw. In order to synch this bike,you must remove the tank and add longer fuel lines to the tank so there is room to get at the synch screw with the bike running.
I would suggest going to dansmc.com and looking up carbs. Find the site,click on index,then mc repair course,and topic 53 is where carb synch lives. A picture is worth a lot, so click there too to find the screw and also an illustration of the synch tool. I tried to link it here,but could not get it to happen. I have a 360 also,and this problem is pretty common. Good luck.

 

If the 360 is anything like the 350s, then the timing is fairly simple to adjust. Just remove the points cover and the alternator cover, connect a test lamp to the points and make sure it lights up when the marks on the alternator line up with the line on the side of the case. Also make sure that your points are clean. You said you checked them, but sometimes they wont make connection. You might try putting a piece of paper or VERY fine sandpaper between them, closing them on it, and sliding the paper out. That might clean them enough to make contact.

 

I had the same problem. One of my points was grounding out on the cover, you may want to check that.