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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, so I got my new project bike and it is a bobber style 89 VT600 shadow. The only problem with it is that someone hacked up the wiring. None of the wires are attached and I'm having trouble following the diagram for the VT600 shadow (this is my first time rewiring). Could someone help me understand it more or even better send me some pictures of the wiring they have on their bike so I can match mine up to it. Connections and all would be preferred. For now, just the wires that deal with the ignition so that I can get the bike started and then I will move on to the lights and other accessories.
Thanks, Q
 

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Hi there, qpermenter15,

I don't have that kind of bike but since someone made a 'pigs breakfast' out of it I think I can give you some help.
Do you have a wiring diagram for the bike? If so send it to [email protected]

For the most part, a line comes off Bat+ to ignition sw. a fuse being on one side or other of it, to protect the bikes
wiring from shorts. a heavy wire from bat+ will go to a starter solenoid mounted either on starter motor or most
likely near the starter with at least one smaller wire coming off it . Of course another heavy wire will go from solenoid
to starter.

Once ignition ( ig sw.) is on power will go to engine run sw. ER SW. here is where u should have 3 wires on that sw.
1 wire is live 12 v.+ when ER sw. is on power will go to ignition circuit AND to a short jumper wire that goes to
the start switch, thumbing that sw. energizes coil in starter solenoid causing heavy contacts to be bridged and stater will
crank over the engine.

if that does not work, it is possible there are safety interlocks, clutch might need to be held in and kick stand might need
to be where ownere manual says for bike to start, so there could be a small sw. where clutch and /or kick stand is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
OK, that makes more sense. I think I understand it, but a picture showing the actual wiring would be good as well just so that I can see it and compare it to the diagram and what you have said. I think I understand for the most part, its just finding what he left on the bike and what he took off and then where it should be placed on the bike as well so that the wiring is good too. thank you for the explanation!
 

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Biker
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Hi again,

I don't know what your level of electrical experience is but you should get yourself a multi-meter good for a.c./ d.c. volts
and with an ohm-meter, that can tell you if a wire/ fuse has continuity.

There are two or more types of wiring diagram or schematic ( ski-matic ) one is a pictorial type which shows in general
detail where various electrical components are, the other is the actual wiring hook-up for all parts or switches, flasher units horn
instrument lights, any electrical load and controlling device

A neutral switch to indicate tranny in or out of gear would be a controlling device or switch and the green light on instruments
cluster would be lit if tranny was in neutral, same for oil pressure switch, low oil pressure would cause red oil lamp to illuminate
if pressure reaches unsafe low pressure for engine.
 

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Biker
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Hi again,

I would suggest that when making up connections splices that you go to some auto parts supply store and get some good crimps
with the proper crimping tool. a lot of connections are made in the bucket a term used for head light enclosure.

When a source of power like a bike battery is hooked to a lamp or green bulb then to a neutral switch then to ground,
this is a series type of circuit.

If you put your left direction signal on and your left front and left rear signals flash, you have a combo- series/parallel
circuit because the left or right dir. sig. switch is in series with the dir. sigs and the signals are in parallel. If one bulb burns out,
the other still works. Also a fuse would be in series between the dir. switches and battery, to protect the bikes's wiring harness.
if the fuse opens or blows,no dir. signals

If you see a fuse that has been 'blackened' it means there is/was a short circuit. If the fuse link opened and you see a gap in the
lead link, but fuse is NOT blackened or looks burnt out then it opened on overload. a 20 amp load protected by a 20 amp fuse
could open up after a few hours. a 20 amp load with a 15 amp fuse will either blow immediately or shortly after, but a 20 amp load
protected by a 25 amp fuse is good as a fuse will carry 80 % of its rating continuously.
 
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