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2075 Views 8 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  CB750F
Alright. I'll try to describe this as best as possible.

So I finally ripped my carbs (CB350f) apart, pulled everything out, replaced certain things with spare parts, cleaned everything, fixed everything up, and so on. Everything seems cool.

I'm putting it back together and I realize that one of the pegs that holds the pin for the float is bent slightly, so when you stick the pin through it doesn't go to the other hole, it's slightly off. So, I do what I think is right, and take a pair of pliers to it to bend it back. Worked great at first, but then, snap, top half comes off.

So now I'm left with one peg and one 7/8 of a peg, and the one with the piece broken off still has half the circle left. So I slide the pin through the first hole and it kinda fits into the other half a hole, and didn't move much at all. So I said whatever, it'll work, there's nothing more I can do.

Put the carbs back on, and that carb dumps gas out the drain, most likely meaning the float is stuck.

NOW. I cannot start my bike. It chugs a tiny bit but won't start on either choke or regular, or half way between.

Is the one float being stuck causing this?
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It could be. On a small I4 bike even if you have 1 cylinder dead in the water they can be real hard if not impossible to start.
Anything I can use to patch that pin on?
JB Weld MIGHT hold it or Loctite 401 instant adhesive if it's a clean break. if it broke right across the hole you may be screwed.
It was directly accross the hole, but why would that matter? Doesn't the float swing from the bar? The bar itself doesn't actually move.
You'll want the hole to line up nice if you want to get the pin back in.
The pin actually goes back in okay cause I bent it to the propor place and then it snapped. So it goes in and kinda rests there. I just have to put some jbweld over the top of it to keep it in there I guess.
Also, what should the float height be like on them?
I always just flipped them upside down and made sure the float arms were parallel with the carb body. That will get you close.

I wouldn't want to JB Weld the pin to the carb body. You may need to remove it someday.
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