Thank you for an awesome response.
The thing I liked most about my gsx-r was it seemed like it had a lower center of gravity. When I rode my zx12r I felt like it was too tall. I was almost nervous to really get into a turn because I felt like I was going to dump it with it sitting up so high. Maybe it's just something I need to get used to. How does the zx14r sit? How is the cornering? I have def been leaning towards the zx14r and I have seen quite a few nice ones for around 8k. I just wanna make sure that its def what I want before I go spend that kind of money on it.
Thank You for questions, but realize you are asking the devil, so take everything with a grain of salt and ride one before buying if you can arrange that. Not to many zx14 owners will allow a drive because they are just a beast of power. However, you may at least get a test drive from a seller if you have the cash in hand.
I bought the first 2006 ZX14 (red) delivered in the Phoenix area about 10 minutes after they uncrated it and had it ready for the showroom. It was sold after putting 40K miles on it in a time I needed to liquidate to make a move. About 3 years ago I purchased another 2006 ZX14 (blue) with 5K miles for about the same amount of money ($5K) and about 3 months after that I bought a 2012 ZX14r with 6K miles for about $6,500. Between all of them I have about a total 100K miles. I know them well, and my wife who often rides 2-up with me prefers them more than any of the other 25-30 bikes I have owned.
I've never owned a gzx-r, although drove one many years ago. They are agile and fast. I like them but just not that much. The zx14r is based on the zx14 chassis, which was based on the zx12r chassis. If you felt high on the 12r it may be because you need to relax and trust the bike. It's not a light and agile track bike, but for being a hyper bike it comes very close and is amazingly controllable in the twisties. One of the best improvements you can make to a gen II zx14r (2012 and later) is to pull off the pipes and replace them with carbon or replace the entire exhaust system with a 4:1 carbon. Really just replacing the factory cans with carbon slip-on's is the best and cheapest and then have the ecu reflashed with a fuel map for the pipes or get an ecu flash and add a pc5 for fuel mapping. Replacing the factory cans with carbons will reduce the curb weight down to about dry weight. It improves the handling and a lighter bike performs a bit better. (NOTE: replacing the factory cans with carbon slip-ons will remove the catalytic converter, so if you live in a state that demands emission testing, this may not be an option.)
If the bike you buy doesn't have hyper tires, get a set as soon as you can afford it, they make that much difference. I'm running Hypersport S22's front and rear on both bikes and they perform both street and track. I get between 7K-8K miles from the rear tire and always switch both even though the front still has some life. The bike will lean, it likes it as well as going straight. After riding for a while and feel you want it a bit more responsive going into corners, lower the trip tree 3/8 to 1/2 an inch, no more. It will slip in and out of turns much easier. Guys have gone as far as 3/4", but I advise approaching that with caution and in small increments to get used to the change. I found 3/8" to be the magic number for me. (NOTE: make sure to check the triple tree location, as this is a popular modification and the previous owner may have already lowered it, I suggest downloading a PDF service manual, they specs will be listed so you can check before making any adjustments).
The throttle is super smooth, the brakes are very good, it is comfortable for long rides and very sporty, and like the 12r you can get into legal troubles pretty fast twisting the throttle, but you already know that stuff. The zx14r is the most capable bike I have ever owned, but I like that kind of bike. Your mileage may vary, good shopping!
