Whatever it is, it looks like someone put simple heat shrink tubing on the outside. I would carefully slice off the tubing to see what it is or hopefully gain more knowledge. You can use an exacto knife and apply a little heat with a heat gun or hair dryer. If you're careful and the part isn't bad, you can replace the heat shrink and still use it. Let us know what you find.

 

Will do!

 

Most likely ballast-resistor array to prevent hyper-flashing with LED winkers.
Even easier way to figure out is to draw into factory wiring-diagram how it's connected.
You'll need that anyway to get winkers and integrated taillight working.

Instead of that messy wiring with non-polarised connectors that allow you to mis-plug wires any which way, best to get some actual factory OEM connectors to install on aftermarket lights. This will keep positive and ground wires aimed properly at their countreparts on harness side. Then it's simple plug-n-play installation and it'll work 1st time.

2x of these 2-way connectors for left & right winker wires
1x of this 3-way connector for tail/brake-light
basic open-barrel crimper - must have matching terminals+crimper system to make reliable crimps with proper pressure to squeeze OD inwards to minimise air-gap between wire-strands for maximum conductivity and holding strength. Generic smashing crimpers like those from auto-parts stores that just makes dent in side of terminal does not create reliable joint. The giant increase in diameter of wire to terminal junction creates massive stress-riser that'll eventually break wire-strands. You want double W-crimps that squeezes onto wire at one end and onto insulation at other. Even better to add little dab at end to wire-strands to improve conductivity (solder conducts better than air). And keeps out moisture from creeping up wire internally to cause green/black wire disease.

 

Most likely ballast-resistor array to prevent hyper-flashing with LED winkers.
Even easier way to figure out is to draw into factory wiring-diagram how it's connected.
You'll need that anyway to get winkers and integrated taillight working.

Instead of that messy wiring with non-polarised connectors that allow you to mis-plug wires any which way, best to get some actual factory OEM connectors to install on aftermarket lights. This will keep positive and ground wires aimed properly at their countreparts on harness side. Then it's simple plug-n-play installation and it'll work 1st time.

2x of these 2-way connectors for left & right winker wires
1x of this 3-way connector for tail/brake-light
basic open-barrel crimper - must have matching terminals+crimper system to make reliable crimps with proper pressure to squeeze OD inwards to minimise air-gap between wire-strands for maximum conductivity and holding strength. Generic smashing crimpers like those from auto-parts stores that just makes dent in side of terminal does not create reliable joint. The giant increase in diameter of wire to terminal junction creates massive stress-riser that'll eventually break wire-strands. You want double W-crimps that squeezes onto wire at one end and onto insulation at other. Even better to add little dab at end to wire-strands to improve conductivity (solder conducts better than air). And keeps put moisture from creeping up wire internally to cause green/black wire disease.

Thank you for your input I will just purchase the bike and this wiring was done by the past owner unfortunately just trying to solve a problem which actually does include rapid flashing so thank you for the information

 

I don't recognize anything in your picture,
but on my 1996 Honda Shadow when I dug into the wiring I found there was a small box --a little smaller than a pack of cigarettes-- wired in there. Its only purpose was to add another load (in parallel circuit) with the blinkers. It was made to draw more current through the rear (only rear) turn signal system so that the factory flasher module would still cause the turn signals to blink even though they had been replaced with LED units.

 

Also problem you have is that right-side always ON marker light power is connected to rear right winker instead of flashing output from signal switch. That's why right rear winker is always going off regardless of position of signal switch. Or right rear winker is connected to always ON taillight wire. Whichever wire it's plugged into is NOT flashing signal from signal switch.

You said you tested the wires. Which wires did you measure and what kind of readings did you get? Only 2 tests needed. One in left rear winker and other on right rear winker. Then it'll be so obvious what problem is, Like lion chewing on your leg, can't miss it!!!

Can see orange and lt.blue factory harness connectors for left/right winkers in your photo. So that's easy. Hopefully 3-way tail/brake light connector hasn't been hacked off. Easiest way to fix is to draw in on wiring diagram where each and every one of those non-stock wires connect.

 

Ok, very 1st problem is ballast-resistors connect to factory winker connectors on harness with 2-wires each, 4-wires total.
However only ONE wire leaves each circuit, 2-wires total.
Where's the other one???
Yeah, best to slice off that wrap and expose how those resistors are wired individually.

Here's clue. This is how ballast resistors work, they create 2nd circuit in parallel with LED bulb. The 2nd circuit draws as much power as original incandescent bulbs and dumps it as heat instead of making light. That way, mechanical flasher relay continues work at same flashing rate as original winkers.

This is how it physically looks. Original LED bulb stays where it is on wire. Then we splice in ballast resistor across power to ground to suck up additional current on 2nd independent and separate circuit.

 

Ok, very 1st problem is ballast-resistors connect to factory winker connectors on harness with 2-wires each, 4-wires total.
However only ONE wire leaves each circuit, 2-wires total.
Where's the other one???
Yeah, best to slice off that wrap and expose how those resistors are wired individually.

View attachment 96908

Bikes stored at a friends place. Will do this next time im there and update the thread. Also all the turn signals, lights, and tail lights are led. So theres some custom wiring in there too. (Which ofc doesnt seem to be that high quality)

 

I. TEST WHAT'S THERE
That's Ok, guiding you through this so you understand transition from factory harness wiring to this aftermarket mess. We actually don't need to unwrap the resistors. We know how they work and how they should be wired from diagrams above. We just need to measure their single outputs to verify they are wired properly inside that wrap. These measurements is part of troubleshooting why your left winker blinks with signal switch while right one is constantly on. So killing 2-birds with stone in effect...

1. disconnect these green connectors from taillight.

2. connect ground of multimeter/test-light to battery -NEG terminal

3. key ON

4. stick +pos probe into green connector with yellow wire, volts=???
5. stick +pos probe into green connector with black wire, volts=???

6. signal-switch to LEFT

7. stick +pos probe into green connector with yellow wire, volts=???
8. stick +pos probe into green connector with black wire, volts=???

Also post sharp in-focus photo of blurred section (red arrow).
Might need some attention to that area to clean up and make more durable.

We'll do quick-n-dirty fix to get things working right now with what you have.
You can upgrade connectors later if you want 50-yr solution.
Much easier to do once you have wiring mapped properly.
BTW - did the blk/brn & grn wires+connector for licence-plate light survive? Or did that get hacked up too?

 

I. TEST WHAT'S THERE
That's Ok, guiding you through this so you understand transition from factory harness wiring to this aftermarket mess. We actually don't need to unwrap the resistors. We know how they work and how they should be wired from diagrams above. We just need to measure their single outputs to verify they are wired properly inside that wrap. These measurements is part of troubleshooting why your left winker blinks with signal switch while right one is constantly on. So killing 2-birds with stone in effect...

1. disconnect these green connectors from taillight.

2. connect ground of multimeter/test-light to battery -NEG terminal

3. key ON

4. stick +pos probe into green connector with yellow wire, volts=???
5. stick +pos probe into green connector with black wire, volts=???

6. signal-switch to LEFT

7. stick +pos probe into green connector with yellow wire, volts=???
8. stick +pos probe into green connector with black wire, volts=???

View attachment 96914

We'll do quick-n-dirty fix to get things working right now with what you have.
You can upgrade connectors later if you want 50-yr solution.
Much easier to do once you have wiring mapped properly.
BTW - did the blk/brn & grn wires+connector for licence-plate light survive? Or did that get hacked up too?

Il do this all when i go back there. Also this is on a 2003 honda cbr600rr which i dont believe has a license plate light. If it does there is literally ZERO of the wiring or mount left. Come to think of it we found a random snap connector wiring harness that went to nothing. That may have been what it was originally.

 

II. MAP & TEST INTEGRATED TAILLIGHT WIRES

For thus step, trace backwards from taillight and determine which wires on bike's original harness they're connected to:

RED connects to harness ->
BLK connects to harness ->
WHT connects to harness ->
BLU connects to harness ->
YEL connects to harness ->

 

III. RECONNECT WIRES PROPERLY

Depending upon what you find in steps I and II, we may switch connections around.

RED -
BLK -
WHT -
BLU -
YEL -

However, there's probability that error is at front right winker wiring. Specifically something might have gone wrong with connecting 3-wire harness wiring to 2-wire single-filament LED bulb.

 

Yea as Danno said looks like a resistor for the LED light to bring the resistance inline with the original incandescent bulbs.

If they are available for your bike I would always MUCH rather upgrade the flasher to a timed version that works with any bulbs rather than the old school flasher that worked like a breaker tripping and resetting based off electrical load.

 

Yea as Danno said looks like a resistor for the LED light to bring the resistance inline with the original incandescent bulbs.

If they are available for your bike I would always MUCH rather upgrade the flasher to a timed version that works with any bulbs rather than the old school flasher that worked like a breaker tripping and resetting based off electrical load.

yes, that's usually best method.

Unfortunately for this model, flasher relay is located inside dash and impossible to access for plug-n-play replacement. There are ways to cut & intercept relay's input/output wires and splice in new LED-compatible replacement. But it's fraught with risk. Given how messy this bike's wiring already is, best to work with what's there and fine-tune installation rather than introduce even more complexity.