It's raining so no mowing and the rings for my Kawasaki Concours/GPZ900/ZX10/ZX11 hybrid are here. Yippee!!!
Trip odometer, Mike....I realized with horror that I was OUT of gas, I was only getting gas when I was going uphill! I'll never get used to a bike with no gas guage and a fuel light that rarely if ever works! I usually can go 160 miles safely but this time I was runing out at 152, with 5 miles to go to where I was planning on filling up!
I rolled down the hill, got to the next uphill, the bike ran again and 1/2 mile up the hill I saw my salvation, a crappy little Delta gas station that only sold 87 octane, but it was pure liquid gold at that moment! Riding soaking wet in a cold downpour is much better than WALKING in that same cold downpour looking for gas .
It's a 1986 ZG1000 Concours overbored 2 mm with ZX11 pistons on ZX10 rods which are longer and lighter than the ZG ones. This combination will be fitted with GPZ900 cams and carbs.That's a real frankenstein!!! Which motor is in it?
And the bike itself is a GPZ900?It's a 1986 ZG1000 Concours overbored 2 mm with ZX11 pistons on ZX10 rods which are longer and lighter than the ZG ones. This combination will be fitted with GPZ900 cams and carbs.
Sure couldn't hurt... I used a 50/50 mix of STP and straight 40 weight oil on everything that moved: main bearings, rod bearings, cam bearings, rocker arms, cyl bores. Always figured it made things easier on a new motor the first time it fired up and didn't have oil pressure yet.I used to coat the bore with STP as well as the wrist pin. Not sure if that would be a good idea with today’s engines.
I checked the end gaps on one ring set and they were good, let it go on the rest since these are genuine Kawasaki rings. However the oil ring spacer is what was giving me trouble and I never had issues with that before. I was tempted to pull off the block and replace them with spacers off the old rings. Now I'm worried.I always used a special assembly lube, made exactly for engine/ transmission overhauls. It is available in a tube form at auto parts stores.
The fitting of RINGS into a cylinder bore is almost a science---one little mistake, such as 'End Gap' clearance, end gap spacing or even 'sequence' of the incorrect ring into the correct ring land can make the entire situation a recurring headache.
Inserting pistons into the tapered area of the bottom of the cylinder is easy on some engines, such as single cylinder engines or engines with a separate cylinder apart from another, such as V-twins but parallel twins can be a hassle and especially the multi cylinder 3 and 4 cyl ones.
RING compressors are readily available and should be used if possible. Aligning and compressing all of those rings with one hand and lowering the cylinders into position without breaking or binding a ring in the ring land or Cyl takes patience.
The best way to see if you have a ring or piston problem is to rotate the crankshaft manually a number of times and use a bore scope to look for slight scratches on the honed cyl bore. ** There should be no noise whatsoever if assembly lube or oil is present on the cyl bore, piston, wrist pin and crankshaft.
If there is no end gap when the piston is in the cyl, the rings if they they installed in the first place, will make moving the piston in the bore almost impossible and if it is-----Stop immediately.