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On The Road Again!
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I realized with horror that I was OUT of gas, I was only getting gas when I was going uphill! I'll never get used to a bike with no gas guage and a fuel light that rarely if ever works! I usually can go 160 miles safely but this time I was runing out at 152, with 5 miles to go to where I was planning on filling up!
I rolled down the hill, got to the next uphill, the bike ran again and 1/2 mile up the hill I saw my salvation, a crappy little Delta gas station that only sold 87 octane, but it was pure liquid gold at that moment! Riding soaking wet in a cold downpour is much better than WALKING in that same cold downpour looking for gas :cool:.
Trip odometer, Mike....
....it's called the Trip Odometer....
You set it to zero every time you fill up.
When it says 140 miles, you start looking for gas. LOL!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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American Legion Rider & sub-Administrator
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24,212 Posts
Trip odometer, Mike....
....it's called the Trip Odometer....
You set it to zero every time you fill up.
When it says 140 miles, you start looking for gas. LOL!!!!!!!!!!!
Get him George!!! 👍👍👍
 

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708 Posts
That's a real frankenstein!!! Which motor is in it?
It's a 1986 ZG1000 Concours overbored 2 mm with ZX11 pistons on ZX10 rods which are longer and lighter than the ZG ones. This combination will be fitted with GPZ900 cams and carbs.
GPZ900 fairing brackets is a bolt-on to the Concours and I'm installing a GL1000 Eliminator output bevel which will lower the overall gearing for quicker acceleration.
 

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It's a 1986 ZG1000 Concours overbored 2 mm with ZX11 pistons on ZX10 rods which are longer and lighter than the ZG ones. This combination will be fitted with GPZ900 cams and carbs.
GPZ900 fairing brackets is a bolt-on to the Concours and I'm installing a GL1000 Eliminator output bevel which will lower the overall gearing for quicker acceleration.
And the bike itself is a GPZ900?
 

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Biker
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1,530 Posts
I got wanderin' Gertrude an inspection sticka over at H-D. now she is fully legal.
bike ran gr8 will do an 80 sumthin mile ride 2morrah, gotta get covid shot in Dartmouth.
bop up the road ova to Minuteman Harley D on state rd 6.
 

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8,709 Posts
Today 5-1-21, Sat, I rode the Spyder to a Prayer meeting in Webb City. Start mileage was 724.8 and end mileage was 829.3 a total of 104.5 miles. It was Chilly, about 50 degrees when I left @ 7:30 am and 78 when I returned at about noon.

I left Webb City and went South and through Seneca and Racine and cut North to Joplin and then took Interstate 44 and INT 49 to North Carthage and secondary roads Home. I mostly rode at 50 mph except on the Interstates where I rode between 60 to 70 mph. The fuel mileage read-out says I have been averaging 36 mpg.

I am still Happy with every aspect of Spyder ownership so far! The thing is fast on its feet for what it weighs, with 115 Horsepower and the paddle shift auto that is amazing.

I used the heated grips this morning and fooled around with the electric windshield positions and went through all of the ride computer functions and set the cruise control a few times. I forgot how to use the Stereo system but I will get in the owners manual soon.

Rain is moving in from Northeast Oklahoma and will hit tonight and stay around until Tuesday evening!

I saw 3 Spyder's on the interstate today and one on a secondary highway! I have no idea what the 'Spyder wave' looks like.:)

Sam 😎
 

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American Legion Rider & sub-Administrator
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I thought maybe you extended your left arm, bent your hand pointing down and wiggled all 5 fingers like a spider walking like I do when I play with my 3 year old Granddaughter. :D

Sam
 

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708 Posts
Put ZX11 pistons in a foil turkey pan, heated in the oven to 300 degrees, took outside and sprayed with oven cleaner RAN FROM FUMES then scrubbed with brushes, cleaned ring grooves, pin boss, and circlip groove (important). Uncleaned chipped piston in pic for comparison.
67266
 

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Burned the midnight oil to a thunderstorm and finally got the ZX11 pistons in the bore! It was way more work than I thought in cleaning and polishing the wrist pins and bores to get a slip fit. Getting the oil rings to slide in were a royal pita. I'm so happy and relieved that the ZX10 rod/11 piston combo indeed achieves a near zero deck height on the overbored Concours block. The crank turns smoothly with a 3/8 inch ratchet. Of course with new rings there is a scuffing noise. Head goes on later this afternoon after a nap.
67267

67268
 

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I used to coat the bore with STP as well as the wrist pin. Not sure if that would be a good idea with today’s engines.
 

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2019 Kawasaki Versys 1000 SE LT+
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239 Posts
I used to coat the bore with STP as well as the wrist pin. Not sure if that would be a good idea with today’s engines.
Sure couldn't hurt... I used a 50/50 mix of STP and straight 40 weight oil on everything that moved: main bearings, rod bearings, cam bearings, rocker arms, cyl bores. Always figured it made things easier on a new motor the first time it fired up and didn't have oil pressure yet.
 

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I always used a special assembly lube, made exactly for engine/ transmission overhauls. It is available in a tube form at auto parts stores.

The fitting of RINGS into a cylinder bore is almost a science---one little mistake, such as 'End Gap' clearance, end gap spacing or even 'sequence' of the incorrect ring into the correct ring land can make the entire situation a recurring headache.

Inserting pistons into the tapered area of the bottom of the cylinder is easy on some engines, such as single cylinder engines or engines with a separate cylinder apart from another, such as V-twins but parallel twins can be a hassle and especially the multi cylinder 3 and 4 cyl ones.

RING compressors are readily available and should be used if possible. Aligning and compressing all of those rings with one hand and lowering the cylinders into position without breaking or binding a ring in the ring land or Cyl takes patience.

The best way to see if you have a ring or piston problem is to rotate the crankshaft manually a number of times and use a bore scope to look for slight scratches on the honed cyl bore. ** There should be no noise whatsoever if assembly lube or oil is present on the cyl bore, piston, wrist pin and crankshaft.

If there is no end gap when the piston is in the cyl, the rings if they they installed in the first place, will make moving the piston in the bore almost impossible and if it is-----Stop immediately.

Sam:)
 

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Took the DR350 on my first trail ride yesterday at the Wayne National Forest OHV trails and had a blast! Not sure how far we went all in all, maybe 50ish miles. Stopped halfway and went into town and grabbed some fajitas and a brewski for lunch. Feeling it today for sure 🙂. Rode with another guy(he was on a drz400) that's been riding dirt bikes for 20 years and learned quite a bit. Also learned I need to get in better shape 😬. Only had 3 low speed mishaps two of which I had to get off the bike to get it up right the other I slowly fell into the hillside. Lost a mirror and one side plastic somehow 😅. Trails are restricted to 50" width which meant a bit of rutting and mud holes in some sections. Not sure if cdi is going bad or some other electrical component but the bike stalled on me a few times and didn't want to start until I let it sit for a few minutes. Probably didn't help everything was covered in a nice 1/4" thick layer of mud. Also discovered a small oil leak at a banjo bolt, I'll change the fluid and replace crush washers and hopefully that'll fix it. New plastics and mirror on the way can't wait to get out again! Also, I know most of us are quite a distance from one another but, if anyone is interested in tagging along for the next ride the more the merrier.
 

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I always used a special assembly lube, made exactly for engine/ transmission overhauls. It is available in a tube form at auto parts stores.

The fitting of RINGS into a cylinder bore is almost a science---one little mistake, such as 'End Gap' clearance, end gap spacing or even 'sequence' of the incorrect ring into the correct ring land can make the entire situation a recurring headache.

Inserting pistons into the tapered area of the bottom of the cylinder is easy on some engines, such as single cylinder engines or engines with a separate cylinder apart from another, such as V-twins but parallel twins can be a hassle and especially the multi cylinder 3 and 4 cyl ones.

RING compressors are readily available and should be used if possible. Aligning and compressing all of those rings with one hand and lowering the cylinders into position without breaking or binding a ring in the ring land or Cyl takes patience.

The best way to see if you have a ring or piston problem is to rotate the crankshaft manually a number of times and use a bore scope to look for slight scratches on the honed cyl bore. ** There should be no noise whatsoever if assembly lube or oil is present on the cyl bore, piston, wrist pin and crankshaft.

If there is no end gap when the piston is in the cyl, the rings if they they installed in the first place, will make moving the piston in the bore almost impossible and if it is-----Stop immediately.

Sam:)
I checked the end gaps on one ring set and they were good, let it go on the rest since these are genuine Kawasaki rings. However the oil ring spacer is what was giving me trouble and I never had issues with that before. I was tempted to pull off the block and replace them with spacers off the old rings. Now I'm worried.
 
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