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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I bought a 2010 classic the other week, all mechanically sound and rather immaculate condition for its age but I just have a few questions and concerns.


1. Cold starting - I upped from a virago 250 that needed the choke when it basically just wasn't sunny however the star starts and idles just fine, even during 14 degree nights. Is that normal? Last time I experienced such easy starts was when my 250 had bigger jets and was running real rich.


2. Exhaust - old owner drilled the baffles so I replaced the system with v&h shorts with their optional quiet baffles that have packing and a cap at one end to reduce noise but I noticed that the headers are turning their usual lean mix gold, and the front header is taking on a blue tint but tbh I'm not sure if that was there prior to the v&h. iirc blueing is more of a rich symptom? I've heard they're gonna turn gold irregardless but I'd like feedback on that


3. This sorta ties it together but I was wondering on the impact of a open air filter rather than stock. I figured if I'm currently running either rich or lean that putting on one of these and jetting accordingly might be the all round better solution. The shop I can get an intake off recommended 32.5 pilot and 115 main with this setup but I've noticed that changing the pilot might not be necessary according to 650ccnd and some other charts. They also didn't mention changing needle position but if I ask about it, they might say. Could I get opinions on this too?


My general ride style is basically a work commute that never really goes more than 60kms/h, but during busy periods it's not unusual to sit at an intersection on idle for a lil while, which makes me wonder if a better air system might help with temps? The local ambient air is usually a lil chilly given my locale.


I don't want to lose my bottom end torque that I have already as it's what's being utilised the most, I'd rarely use the top end save for maybe the odd trip out of town in 100km zones. I'm not sure if anything mentioned affects my bottom end but I thought I'd give as much info as possible.


Attached is a few images + the air filter in question.


P.s does anyone have a pic of what the rear header looks like with the gasket? Can't tell if mine is so baked in or not present. Pipes fit flush and there doesn't appear to be an indent where a gasket would be obvious but I'm concerned about an exhaust leak too.

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
The stock head pipes are double walled. Your V&H pipes are not. That is why the color change.


There is a HUGE difference in an open air inlet filter system as opposed to the restrictive stock air inlet/filter system... HUGE!


I have not done a re-tune with the exact air inlet (filter) and optional quiet baffles you have but I've done several others with performance exhaust systems and air induction systems that greatly reduce restriction the way the filter on your machine surly does.
I went to my notes on a Hypercharger induction system I installed (probably similar air flow to yours) on a V-Star 650. That bike did not have quiet baffles, but was a V&H system.
At near sea level...
Pilot jets: #35 (four steps).
Main jet front carb: #132.5
Main jet rear carb: #127
That is something like 15 - 17 steps up on main jets!
I've had people tell me reducing the air inlet restriction with systems like the Hypercharger will not work and you can never get them to run smooth or correctly.
That is probably true if you only go by the jet kit instructions and Do Not Know how to Read the Spark Plugs.


If there was no gasket you would almost positively hear an exhaust leak at the head / pipe.

Questions,
Does your V-Star run good idle to high speed? What size jets (pilot & main) does it have now?

S F
Currently has stock pilot and mains - I havent fitted that intake I'm more of just curious about if it would be better for the health of the bike due to the change of exhaust, currently my intake is stock too.

I'm about to have a look at the plugs but I'm personally split between keeping the intake stock and going up a size or two in mains (92 or 95? Would like an opinion on this) if it is running lean or going with a less restrictive air intake and going all the way.

I won't be able to to the changes myself and I already like how the bike currently runs which makes me just wanna up the jets and leave the rest, I'm just afraid I'm cooking my machine and damaging it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I've done a BUNCH of those bikes... (USA models)

There is a HUGE difference in an open air inlet filter system (like in your pic) as opposed to the restrictive stock air inlet/filter system of the V-Star 650. As you can see from my post above going to such a non-restrictive air inlet requires radical jetting changes. RADICAL because the stock air inlet is soooo restrictive in comparison. To change to such a system you need somebody that really understands carburation tuning. I only know of one in my area that can get it right.

If you keep the stock air inlet / filter system you will not need to change pilot jets. Running the stock air inlet system with a performance exhaust only requires minor jetting / tuning changes. Most of the time about ~ two steps larger mains. With that bike I would start with #95 mains and do some near top speed plug chops WITH NEW UNUSED NGK SPARK PLUGS.
Here in the USA the bike will not come with adjustable jet needles. Probably the same across the world and the fuel mixture screws are probably capped also.

S F
Thank you - I'm sure the shop here could do something but they're definitely more on the dirt bike side, and they're mainly a small shop so I don't think it'd be clever for us to try with an air intake.

I actually checked just before, it seems my model has been blessed with the thumb screw pms' versions and that also matches the part sheet too so it appears no drilling will be necessary and doesn't appear to have been done by the previous owner.

I was thinking of getting 92, 95 and 97 to try out to see what works best. I've also wondered if I could also tweak the pms to make it slightly richer and see how that goes, but I'm not too sure if I'll end up bringing it out of whack.
 

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I actually checked just before, it seems my model has been blessed with the thumb screw pms' versions and that also matches the part sheet too so it appears no drilling will be necessary and doesn't appear to have been done by the previous owner.
Nice!
Here they came with #90 mains. Same there? If so going to a 92 wouldn't be much of a change as that is only one step.
Take note of the exact position of the fuel screws so you can go back if needed.
Easy to get to the spark plugs on that bike so learning what too rich looks like will not be hard. What too lean looks like ain't as easy. Being a two valve engine you should be able to find spark plug color charts on-line that are still relevant. Newer multi-valve engines are a whole different thing.

S F
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Nice!
Here they came with #90 mains. Same there? If so going to a 92 wouldn't be much of a change as that is only one step.
Take note of the exact position of the fuel screws so you can go back if needed.
Easy to get to the spark plugs on that bike so learning what too rich looks like will not be hard. What too lean looks like ain't as easy. Being a two valve engine you should be able to find spark plug color charts on-line that are still relevant. Newer multi-valve engines are a whole different thing.

S F

I did sort of realise I'm almost never at or past 3/4th throttle on commute so I'm not sure how much the mains would play a part if I'm understanding pilot and mains properly...

I'll photograph and mark where they both sit so I can turn them on at the same rate together. I'm assuming it's still turn left for rich, right for lean? I'm also thinking of starting with 1/4th a turn and listening to decel pop, there's not much pop but if it starts to fade away I might be in the right direction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just an update on this - I turned both mix screws half out (turning to the left) on both sides and decel popping went away practically completely, and the pipes seem to lose a touch bit of irregular sound that I hadn't notice until now, it's really hard to say as it might be placebo due to me thinking I'm in the right direction from what I mentioned but they sound a little more in a regular beat and a touch more deeper or lower.

Throttle response seems to same, or if there was anything different I didn't notice it. take-off was a slight more consistent as well and the overall response from 1/4th to half throttle seems to be a bit more 'there'.
 

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That makes me think somebody put the V&H exhaust on and didn't touch the carburetors. (That can be a good thing more times than not). Lol
Do you know if the jet needles are adjustable? They are not on stock USA models. We have to buy 'jet kits' to get adjustable jet needles.

BTW. I can not recognize the flag under you member name. Where / what country are you in? It's 2:30 AM here... I'm off to bed.

S F
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
That makes me think somebody put the V&H exhaust on and didn't touch the carburetors. (That can be a good thing more times than not). Lol
Do you know if the jet needles are adjustable? They are not on stock USA models. We have to buy 'jet kits' to get adjustable jet needles.

BTW. I can not recognize the flag under you member name. Where / what country are you in? It's 2:30 AM here... I'm off to bed.

S F
I'm in Australia and it was also me who fitted it a week odd ago so it's still a good thing it wasn't messed with since I'm running with stock specs - speaking of which, the rear pipe that connects to the OEM header with two Allen bolts, do you happen to know the torque specs? Can't find it in my manual, a Google said 15 ft/lb but I'd just wanted to clarify, thanks again
 
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