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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Finished off the muffler today and made a polished aluminium hanger for it. I was going to double skin a section on the side of the muffler and weld mounting tabs to it, but decided this full cradle hangers would look better, plus, nothing to break off from the vibration. Happy with the result, these mufflers look nice and suit the build I think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
Completed the last job today, fitted the baffles to the mufflers. All that's left to do now is rip the bike apart and repaint, then reassemble. Don't know when though, I like looking at it now it's finished.

I'll be repainting with the same black, but this time applying an iso free two pack clear over the base colour coat on some selected parts: tank, seat, guards and maybe a few other bits.

When resprayed and assembled I'll fit tyres and get the the seat covered, don't trust the upholsterers with the seatpan, that's why the two pack iso free clear on the seatpan before getting it covered. I was going to cover it myself, but the Singer has given up the ghost.

When resprayed and reassembled I park it in the garage and cover it up and go out every now and again, uncover, sit on it, blow through my lips to make some appropriate motor bike noises and dribble down my chin.

Don't know what I'll do after this, maybe an R65, if there's anything left of my elbows.
 

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When I was pretty much finished modifying, painting and putting together my RD350 I would go out to my back yard home shop and sometimes sit for an hour or more just admiring it. (It was/is shabby in comparison to what I see here).

At that time I was a learn as you go type mechanic. Somebody told me you could enter an endurance race at the semi-local club and go blast around a track all day and of course not have to worry about cops. Sounded good so I told a friend that owned a local dealership my plans. He said there were some guys working in the back that had an endurance team running a KZ650 Superbike that needed more riders. I just wanted to go blasting but I became an endurance racer. After years of endurance racing a bunch of different bikes with them (different class most every race) I finally took the RD to the track for a few endurance races one year. Modified RZ350's ruled the class at the time so... But I did prove an air cooled RD could run eight hours flat out if tuned for it and we did Trophy a time or two. The next year we ran a full year with a modified RZ350 and did quite well. Endurance racing was a Saturday thing. Sometimes I'd bring the RD350 to sprint race on Sunday in Clubman class. We had a team photographer for the RZ350 endurance team so she took a few pics of my RD350 on Sunday. In the endurance we had dead engine La Mans type starts so live engine grid starts were a new thing to me as you can see in my avatar. Lol... That was the last year of my endurance racing. Next I sprint raced 750's along with the RD350 sometimes until I unintentionally retired from racing.
Man! Those were the good old days.

S F
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Probably the last startup before tearing it apart again for repainting. Sync was a little out, so I adjusted the idle screws, turning the idle screw a fraction results in a big difference to the manometer. Happily, the mufflers do an excellent job of quieting the beast.
 

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Probably the last startup before tearing it apart again for repainting. Sync was a little out, so I adjusted the idle screws, turning the idle screw a fraction results in a big difference to the manometer. Happily, the mufflers do an excellent job of quieting the beast.
Sounds awesome! Looking forward to hearing a ride-by.
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
I thought I’d make one more video before tearing the bike apart. This one deals with carb syncing with a manometer.

This manometer has a relatively large body of water, and the vacuum lines are fitted with a .6mm jet. This has the effect of slowing down the movement of water stabilising the readings and making the device extremely accurate. Just a miniscule turn of either idle screw or throttle adjustment screw greatly effects the fluid levels.

I have great trouble with my fingers, so you'll notice me changing hands frequently trying to turn the adjustment screws. I also turned the adjustment screws the wrong way a few times, putting the levels out.

 

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ONLY for bikes that do not have an accelerator pump, with the engine not running and after setting the synch running...
I've found that manipulating the throttle a few times (full open then let it slam closed) will make the synch adjusters sort of take a "set" like they will be after in use for a while. Then I start the engine again and see if the original setting stayed the same or if fine adjustments are needed. Sometimes you find them off a bit after a few slams, sometimes not. Of course you wouldn't want to do that if the machine has accelerator pumps because that would flood the heck out of it. Some people claim that I am a perfectionist... Could be true? ;)
BTW. What a fine machine you are building. (y) Are you going back to black?

S F
 

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I probably didn't explain well enough.
After you set the synch like normal with the engine running shut the engine off then "work" the throttle letting it slam shut a few times. (Engine not running). The idea is to make the springs on the adjusters change, settle or relive any abnormal tension they may have from the screws turning against the springs. After the springs "settle" (for lack of a better description) sometimes that will alter the synch. THEN start the engine again and re-check the synch. If you find it still set correctly you're done. If the synch is off a little (because roughly manipulating the throttle changed it) adjust the synch again then do the shut engine off, slam throttle, start engine again and check synch again. I've found that just blipping the throttle with the engine running does not always make the springs/adjusters "settle in" the way they will from a bunch of on/off throttle real world riding. Bikes will run just fine if the synch is not perfect, so there is that.
Some people say I'm a perfectionist, I don't know why.

S F
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
This is a new brake divider I machined up to replace the original. The original hoses were rotted, so I replaced them and did away with the two steel tubes that connect the hose to the calliper and the hose from the master cylinder to the divider. Unfortunately, the new hoses have the banjos on the same plain requiring the lower hose to be twisted through 90degrees to connect to the original divider, so I machined a new divider to get around the problem. The lower hose connects at the rear of the divider, as does the brake light switch. The top hose connects to the side of the divider.
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
A few hours is all it took - it's just a pile of bits that once was an almost complete bike now, just needed tyres and the seat covered. Going to be a big job polishing all those bits again, any volunteers???

A couple of mods on the frame to do: Remove the coil and flasher mounts then repaint along with tank, guards, seat, trees and a few other bits. Not sure what paint to use this time. I used acrylic lacquer last time, but spilt some petrol on the tank and it stained it. Painted heaps of tanks with acrylic lacquer before but never had this problem, either the paint is different or the petrol is. Don't really want to repeat the exercise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
Applied the final coats of acrylic lacquer to the tinwork and some ancillaries this afternoon, didn't come out as clear or as good as I hoped, but acceptable I guess. I'll give it a few more days then sand the tank and spray over with 2k clear. Not the done thing, technically, but plenty do it, so we'll see how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
Painted the tank, seat, guards, headlight and callipers with 2k clearcoat this morning. Unfortunately, I can't wear glasses under the respiration so I couldn't see too clearly - bloody great run on the tank, damn. Couldn't get any non isocyanate free, so just the usual 2K.

It's been over 40 years since I used 2k, so I couldn't remember what coverage was like, how much paint I'd need, googled it in various painting forums. 2litres minimum for frame, tank, guards seat, headlight I was advised. Armed with that knowledge, I shyed away from 2k because it would have cost near as damn it to $450/$500.

Seems our painting professionals haven' a clue., I mixed up 250mm clear, 125mm catalyst and a little thinners. Got three coats down on tank, guards, seat, headlight and callipers and still had 200mm of mixed paint left.

By the look of it, I won't be spending anytime compounding or polishing the paintwork.

This pic should give you some idea why painting and, polishing aren't my favourite past times. Scared the **** out of the dog.
 

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