Motorcycle Forum banner
41 - 60 of 78 Posts

Ace Tuner
Joined
4,464 Posts
End of posts here, no interest on classic bikes.
Wrong. Everyone is just watching. They jump in if or when they think you are going wrong. But we can't change your mind if it's set.
I agree with hog.
I'm sure many of our members have been enjoying seeing the IMPRESSIVE job you've been doing with that 650 twin. I know I have been.
It's just that I don't have much that I could add to the conversation because your skill far outshines my ability so I'm happy to just watch.
Do you realize your TX650 build thread has had close to 1,000 different people viewing it to date? Many of us are interested... (y)

S F 馃弽
 

Premium Member
Joined
10,624 Posts
I have just got around to looking at your posts. Wow.
I would mount the tyres for you if I was closer.
All my bikes are dirty, but 022 is the year I get some painting done. UK
 

Registered
Joined
56 Posts
Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Some headlight brackets I made up and some pics on the build process.
 

Attachments

Registered
Joined
56 Posts
Discussion Starter · #46 ·
I bought a couple of VM34 carbs to replace the BS38s. Unfortunately the BS carb diaphragms started developing lot of little holes, far to many to patch. I priced diaphragms in Oz, $140 each, damned if I was going to pay that. JBM in the US have diaphragms for $19, but they're not posting to Oz, so that settled it.

The VMs arrived and came with a cable and two manifolds. I fitted them only to find the cable interferes with the petrol tap, the common fix for this is to angle the charts over, not this little black duck! Anyway I contacted the seller who stated it was a very rare problem, 3 in 500. Googling revealed a different story, it's quite common due to not all XS650s not being the same.

So, I decided to turn up a couple of longer manifolds to site the carbs behind the fuel taps. I first spun up a 40mm spigot with a lip, next I turned up a 25mm plate and pressed the spigot in place. It turned out excellent so I made another exactly the same.

The manifolds site the carbs 10mm behind the tap, but the tap outlet spigot was right in the middle of the carb cable. Easily fixed, I swapped the taps, right to left and left to right which placed the spigot at the front of the tap, thus missing the cable altogether.

Quite a neat fix which looks pretty good. Armchair experts like to harp on about longer manifolds changing the torque and power outputs, but really it makes no difference. Only a dyno could pick up any difference and that would hardly register any difference at all.
 

Attachments

Ace Tuner
Joined
4,464 Posts
Quite a neat fix which looks pretty good.
I believe everything about your build looks a lot better than just pretty good...
Sure wish you lived down the street from me. You're probably glad you don't cause I'd be bugging you all the time to make parts and such for me.

S F
 

Registered
Joined
56 Posts
Discussion Starter · #48 ·
I sent off for a hydraulic clutch slave cylinder and some hoses, they arrived today and I was pleasantly surprised. The slave cylinder mounts where the original cable was and pulls on the lever attached to the course thread screw. It was cheap and is pretty darn good quality, just not sure it will work that well as the bore is only around 12_14mm. Tomorrows job.

Some hydraulic hoses also arrived, these were advertised as 'braided' but certainly there is no external braiding. They are quite small in diameter and appear to be made of some sort of plastic with braiding of some sort under the clearish outer surface. The smaller of the two came with three banjos: straight, 28 degrees and 90 degrees. Again, they appear to be quite good quality.

The slave cylinder and hoses were only bought to play with, but if everything works ok, I may look at the hoses for brake lines. I'll be on the lathe again shortly to make a slave cylinder that pushes on the clutch actuating rod, not a fan of the course threaded screw actuator.
 

Attachments

Registered
Joined
56 Posts
Discussion Starter · #49 ·
The coil on the TX went kaput, so I sent off for another CB 750 coil. It arrived yesterday so I went to install it only to find it didn't fit' the bracket I made a while back, the mounting holes on the new coil are 10mm closer together. Not much choice so I made another mounting bracket. Being as it's under the tank I anodised it instead of polishing it as I'd done with the original. Prior to anodising I rotary sanded it, then hit it with a scotchbrite wheel, then dumped it in the anodising bath. Unfortunately, anodising tends to greatly amplify any imperfections in the finish, whilst it looked great before anodising it came out showing the sanding scratches. Acceptable and not seen under the tank, but I wasn't happy with the finish, so rather than do it all again, I put it in the blasting cabinet and gave it a light blasting with glass beads. What a great finish this gave, still anodised so it won't oxidise, but boy, what a great finish. I still have to route the cables and harness neatly, that's why it looks a little untidy. I might also do the same with the top engine mounts.
 

Attachments

Registered
Joined
56 Posts
Discussion Starter · #50 ·
I've designed and put together a couple of much simplified harness' one for lights, the other for ignition, minus stuff I don't require, neutral light and so on. But still the spaghetti bucket lived up to it's name. I dislike untidy with a vengeance so made a bracket that sits inside the spaghetti bucket to try and keep things neat and make it easier to find and connect the wires.
Two grommets sit in the middle for routing earth wires through to earth connections and a couple of linked, Delrin, insulated terminal bridges sit either side of them for power connections. Mostly connected up, but still have to connect the headlight cables and speedo light cables, not sure about adding idiot lights, more procrastination needed there me thinks! The cables emanating from the switchgear are very, very light gauge, not sure if they'll handle the current, even though all lights are LEDs, so I may have to either solder in heavier gauge cables or change the switchgear.
Musical instrument Electronic instrument Audio equipment Gas Gadget
Audio equipment Motor vehicle Fender Gas Electrical wiring
Wheel Tire Automotive tire Vehicle Motor vehicle
 

Ace Tuner
Joined
4,464 Posts
Some hydraulic hoses also arrived, these were advertised as 'braided' but certainly there is no external braiding. They are quite small in diameter and appear to be made of some sort of plastic with braiding of some sort under the clearish outer surface.
I've noticed the braided stainless hoses that have that clearish cover are usually the DOT approved types while the ones that do not have that cover are usually marked for race only. We use both. I like the ones with the covering, rags and stuff don't catch on them.
BTW. What a fine machine you're building. (y)

S F
 

Registered
Joined
56 Posts
Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Finished off the front wiring and spaghetti bucket. Still looks a little untidy, but neater than most I think. I even mounted the lens on a couple of wire safety straps to stop it pulling on the harness. I had, to buy these double female bullet connectors from China, couldn't find anyone in OZ who stocks them. Trying to find sub 6mm eye terminals was a job, same with 3mm blade terminals, they stock female blades but not males. And they complain that everyone is turning to online shopping - no bloody wonder.
Got to attack the back end now, mount the indicators and plug them and the tail light into the lighting harness.
 

Attachments

Registered
Joined
56 Posts
Discussion Starter · #53 ·
The indicators I bought don't have a long enough threaded section to go through the guard bracket, so I made these extension brackets to mount the indicators on. The V shaped cut out at the rear of the brackets fits around the frame tab protrusion, thus stopping the brackets from moving.
 

Attachments

Registered
Joined
56 Posts
Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Nup, binned them. Looking at the picture I noticed the line on the top the aluminium bracket doesn't follow the line on the top of the frame tab. So I made a new pair. Not a lot I could do with the bottom line as the tab angle is different to the guard angle, so I followed the tab angle down to the bottom of the guard then followed the arch of the guard. I might have to thin it down a bit though, looks a bit too big???
Fuel tank Automotive tire Hood Tire Motor vehicle
 

Registered
Joined
56 Posts
Discussion Starter · #55 ·
A few weeks ago I sent off for some tapered mufflers, these were said to suit from 38 - 45mm pipes using the supplied sleeves. Well they came, but aside from being chrome when I ordered black, they were rubbish: The spigot that goes over the exhaust pipe is tapered, so no matter how tight the clamp is done up, they have an alarming amount of movement, so I wrapped them up and on sold them.

Today I went to an exhaust shop and bought 1.5 m of 57 mm pipe and the same amount of 41mm pipe and asked the guy to taper the ends of the 41mm pipe out to 57mm. This was just an experiment mind, just wanted to see what they'd look like. Once I'd welded the tapered cones on to the 57mm pipe, I slid the 57mm end of the mufflers over the exhaust, stood back and had a squiz. Very pleasantly surprised, they give the bike the look I'm after. So next week, or whenever, I'll get some 45mm pipe and get the guy to expand the ends out to 57 mm and weld them on to the other end of the muffler.

The plan is to make up a couple of long baffles and slide them all the way inside the mufflers, start the bike and gradually slide the baffles out until I achieve what I think is an acceptable noise level. I'll also throw a bit of fibreglass insulation in the bodies to dampen the high level noise.

They look a bit Pommyish, but that's alright, I like Pommy bikes.

Once I've finished the mufflers, that's pretty much the build finished. So I'll strip it down, repaint everything again, give the tank a coat of isocynate free clear coat and stick the bike back together. All that remains to be done then is get some tyres fitted and upholster the seat. That'll be the end of my bike building days though, unfortunately, this build has pretty much stuffed my body, my elbows are stuffed, can't doing anything without lots of pain now. So once finished I'll probably book elbow replacement surgery and retire from life. Although, every now and again I'll probably wander out to the workshop, sit on the bike, blow through my lips to make some bike noises, dribble down my chin and remember the good old days of my youth. Still a bit left to do though.
 

Attachments

Ace Tuner
Joined
4,464 Posts
Can't wait to see this machine in finished form. Make sure to keep posting LOTS of pics.
Thanks for the update but sorry to hear of medical problems.

Godspeed,
S F
 

Registered
Joined
56 Posts
Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Finished one of the mufflers today, plus a baffle. Unfortunately, none of the tube sizes will slide inside the next size up, .25mm too big. I did, consider getting the exhaust guy to expand the tubes, but, I don't share their idea of a 'good fit'. So, using a drum sander I shaved .25mm off the inside of the tail pipe and the same amount of the receiver end. Now, because round tube is not round, more egg shaped, I can match the oval shapes together, push one tube in, twist and get a really tight fit.

Baffles were fun to make, 168 holes in total. I drilled 14 along the length of the pipe, then drilled another 11 lines of holes around the circumference, by the time I'd drilled the last line the holes didn't match up, so, I mounted another piece of tube on the lathe and used the bit to scribe lines along the length, 9.9mm apart, then used the dial indicator to mark around the tube at 10mm intervals, then drilled using the mill. Success. I know you can't see the holes in the baffles and it won't make any difference, but,
At least I'll know they are neat and the rows and lines match.

All I have to do to tune the decibels is start the bike and pull the baffle out until I'm happy with the noise level then cut the excess off. In area, I need 58 x 5mm holes to match the area of the exhaust pipe outlet, I can probably go a few less actually because the exhaust outlet is only arlound 34/36mm as is the baffle outlet.

Welding the cones front and back was also fun: Tacked the cone in four places as straight as I could get it, then mounted the muffler in the chuck, spun it and using a dial gauge, marked where I needed to weld in order to pull it straight. Four times from memory I did this, with 25mm long beads. The tail pipe on the other one I did yesterday, manually, is a little off, but I'll remedy that after I've added the receiver cone.

A good day today, muffler gives the bike the look I wanted. Once both are done, I'll double skin a portion on the inside, weld some mounting points on, then paint them black. Not sure what type bracket to use, but it will attached to a polished aluminium stay bolted to the pillion passenger peg mounts. I'm thinking of a wide polished aluminium clamp around the body of the muffler, that will negate the need for double skinning. I can feel a 'try and see' coming up
 

Attachments

Registered
Joined
2,167 Posts
I actually like the look of the mufflers as they are - for me, they are a nice contrast to the black headers, and they show the work that has gone into them.
 
41 - 60 of 78 Posts
Top