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Discussion Starter #1
Hello! :grin:

I've got this '96 Bandit 600, andI've got some problems.
The issue in itself is that when I idle it, it won't really run without stalling. So I turn up the idle screw under the carbs, which results in the bike idling at 3,5k rpm when riding (so when I pull the clutch it goes up to 3,5k ish, which isn't ideal). Then I turn it back down when I come home from the ride, so it idles at about 1200-1500rpm, but when I start the bike again it won't idle at all unless I use the choke until it's at riding temperature (could start the bike without choke at a warm summer day last season). And on and on.

So the reason why this happened;
I went over the carbs, due to bad idle, swapped out the pilot screw o-ring and the float chamber gasket and took a general check and cleaning of all the bits of the carb (using a Haynes manual since it was my first time, and I have a good mechanical insight). I also drained the tank and checked the fuel tap, because it's f*cked and will only work at "reserve", while it's in the "ON" position it drops vacuum-level unless I go hard on the throttle. :plain:

Things I have checked;
Pilot screws and positioning + spark plugs, looking good.
Vacuum leak around the carb, nothing at all.
Idle channels that goes from the induction side of the carb to the exhaust side, carb cleaner and carefully with compressed air, nothing in there at all.
Vacuum in the carbs, looking good.

Things I want to check, but cost money;
Coils and spark plug wires, just a thought, but have no idea.
Fuel tap, since it is working badly at ON, it might have gotten worse vacuum at "reserve" after I split it open and tried to clean it (expensive as hell appearently).
Choke wire, it seems to be a little short and is always in a bit of tension (no slack at all). Doubt it, but I can try this without getting a new one.

Now then, please if anyone could give me any tips I would be SO happy.

Best Regards,
A tired Bandit owner :crying:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
How did you check for air leaks leaks air and vacuum?
Air leaks has been checked using engine-start-gas in small dosages around the rubber connections on both sides of the carbeuretor, nothing happened.
Vacuum was testes using a vacuum tester, as the symptoms sounded like it sucking up extra air, I had hopes that was the problem, but sadly it was not.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Another thing I forgot to mention is that there is hesitation when giving it throttle at low rpms, you hear the induction noise, but it’s slow, compared to 2k rpm and up.
 

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Why would your coils be expensive to check? I have light bulb lit spark testers...but they take exeperience to know how bright a light bulb should be. I also have a grounding based one where you can set the gap it should jump. 3/4" is a tough gap but a great coil will do it, but if I don't get spark until like a 1/4" then I say the coil must be bad.
 

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Coils can be tested with an meter, and it sounds like something is still wring with the carbs. A common issue is plugged idle jet from something getting in there at the rebuild, ie sliver piece of the fuel hose. Did you buy the bike this way, in other way of asking, has it ever ran correctly since you have had it? Does it have stock exhaust and air filters in it. Has the carbs been tinkered with such as in jetting or shims?
 
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