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On The Road Again!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've never liked the look of the light bar that I bought
for the Goldwing. The driving lights stuck out too far and looked
like a pair of bug eyes sticking out on those long stalks
away from the fairing. They just looked goofy to me.
So yesterday I decided to do something about it.
After a good deal of thought and some
VERY CAREFUL MEASURING, I narrowed the light bar by 2 1/2 inches
on each side, which brings my driving lights in so they are right next
to the fairing. MUCH better in my opinion.
How I did it:
That bar is chromed steel so welding it would ruin the chrome. And I'm
such a crappy welder that it would have looked like hell.
So, I used a tubing cutter like plumbers use to cut copper water pipe, and
removed 2 1/2 inches from each side right under the edge of the fairing
where the joint wouldn't be seen. The chrome tube has an inside
diameter of one half inch, so I found a couple of 7/16 inch bolts about three
inches long each, and cut the heads off of them.
Then I smeared the bolts with PC-7 epoxy which dries rock hard, and slipped
the bolts inside the tubing and slid the pieces back together and let them
harden over night.
BINGO! You can barely see the joint and I'm confident that the PC-7 will hold
til long after I'm dead.
See the before and after photos below.
(I hadn't hooked the wires up yet when I took the photo)
 

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Visionary
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Nice improvement!
 

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American Legion Rider
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It is very much an improvement. Believe it or not, I've never used PC7 epoxy. I've always welded and used a grinder if needed and just lived with the result. But paint can cover a lot of ugly.:grin:

I hope it does hold. There is a lot of vibration and bouncing with things that stick out like that. So here's hoping! :thumbsup:
 

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781 Posts
Oh yeah, MUCH better.
If your work does fall apart, and I hope it doesn't, try JB Weld. I've always had good luck with that.
 

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Save them all!
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Yes, definitely much better! Nice job!
 

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Retired twice: Navy and as a govt contractor
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I like it, looks great.
 

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On The Road Again!
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4,202 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I've been using PC-7 since the 70s. That stuff is "everything proof". When you mix the two parts together, you get a paste that is almost like kids modeling clay. You can shape it when it's soft. But once it hardens, you can machine it like a hard plastic.
Way back in the early 70s, my brother had a Kawasaki 350 that he crashed and drove the shift pedal through the left side engine case. We fished the broken aluminum pieces out of the
crankcase and glued them back in place with PC-7. He rode that bike for another year or more, and then sold it to a friend of his who rode it for several more years with the epoxy patch
still holding the side of the engine together.
Good stuff.
 

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I've been using PC-7 since the 70s. That stuff is "everything proof". When you mix the two parts together, you get a paste that is almost like kids modeling clay. You can shape it when it's soft. But once it hardens, you can machine it like a hard plastic.
Way back in the early 70s, my brother had a Kawasaki 350 that he crashed and drove the shift pedal through the left side engine case. We fished the broken aluminum pieces out of the
crankcase and glued them back in place with PC-7. He rode that bike for another year or more, and then sold it to a friend of his who rode it for several more years with the epoxy patch
still holding the side of the engine together.
Good stuff.
Cool! I have never heard of PC-7 until now. Sounds like it's just as good or even better than JB. That's the trouble with being older than dirt. One gets set in their ways.
 

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On The Road Again!
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·

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Wow. The reviews on Amazon sold me. Guess I'm going to have to get some. Question: Do both parts have to be sealed up and air tight when not in use?

1950? Pfft! Youngster. lol.
 

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On The Road Again!
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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
The containers have screw on lids. And yes, screw 'em on tight when not in use.
The stuff has a looong shelf life if kept sealed...like YEARS!
Just remember that this stuff is a SLOW hardening epoxy.
Don't expect quick results. It takes at LEAST 24 hours at 70 degrees to harden. Be patient.
It seems to be the rule that fast hardening epoxies are more brittle and don't hold as well as the slow hardening stuff.
Get some popsicle sticks to scoop it from the can and mix it.
And of course, don't use the same stick in both cans.

P.S. I mix it on a old vinyl coffee can lid.
 

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Excellent. I'll get some as soon as I get my SSI check. Not too worried about the set up time. I always apply the JB and call it a day for that project. Funny how when you're retired, there is sooooo much to do. LOL.
 

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So apparently PC-7 is much different than the 2 part epoxy I used that is actually runny. That's one reason I've never been sold on epoxy. Guess I'll have to keep this in the back of my mind for possible use some day. Got to learn at least one thing a day. Never too old to learn something and I've now learned my one thing for the day.:grin:
 

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On The Road Again!
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So apparently PC-7 is much different than the 2 part epoxy I used that is actually runny. That's one reason I've never been sold on epoxy. Guess I'll have to keep this in the back of my mind for possible use some day. Got to learn at least one thing a day. Never too old to learn something and I've now learned my one thing for the day.:grin:
Yes, this stuff is definitely NOT runny. It's a thick paste, almost like
modeling clay, or taffy. You can actually mold it into shapes to replace
broken parts.
 

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Nice job much improved!
This said I wouldn't have noticed it looked wrong if you hadn't pointed it out now I can't not see it!
 
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