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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need to give it maintenance cause it has some drag. Should I completely take it apart and lub it? Or can inject the lub without removing everything? Whats a regular procedure, thanks.
 

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There are several places to apply lube like WD40, mainly at the fitting ends. They actually make a small tool that attaches to a cable housing and has a hole that will accept the plastic nozzle from pressurized lubes, some just for cables. Motorcycle dealers will have more info.:grin:

Open the handlebar housing and you'll see places to clean the throttle and it's push and pull cables. It is a maintenance item.:wink2:

Sam:nerd:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I once tried to lub the cables, but seems like wd40 could not reach big section, but just around where it was applied. I was thinking not to inject the wd40 with pressure, but just temporary glue something that holds the amount of oil, so gravity would do the rest, draining it and hopefully reaching all the entire lenght of cable. Just like glueing a little funnel around the cable in, so you put enough and forget about it until all the oil has been released from the cable end.
 

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For the record, WD40 is a temporary metal protectant, not a lube. Used as a lube, it doesn't last long, so you should get a real cable lube.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I just took a time observing at the throttle cables and found that they actually look fine, I am having and errant idle, which I usually tune it around 1.5k using the idle adjuster, I think thats here where somehow a dragging fact interacts with throttle play, making it sound out of armony, until I drop it from 2k to 1.5k using the mentioned knob, it gets more stable as the bike warms, but overall my system sounds a **** sometimes at low revs and I have to constantly adjusting the idle adjuster knob, any idea? It sound ugly from 2k to 4k, but sounds very cool above 5k, just like a rocket jeje.
 

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OK, what bike are we discussing? Multiple carbs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I just found that that behavior is caused by bad synced carbs, just watched a youtube video with the very same problem of mine...

Bike is a yamaha fz1 2005, so it has four carbs, that surely need to be synced.
 

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Not hard to do, but much easier if you have a four-channel vacuum monitor, instead of juggling two matched gauges. I have a six-channel one for my F6, and would be happy to help you use it, if you live near me.

BTW, the sync will be better if the valves are in spec:
 

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"It sound ugly from 2k to 4k, but sounds very cool above 5k" - jonasx2 quote

It ain't just carb sync alone causing problems at that high of engine RPM. Probably something wrong in the carburetor's slow speed (and possibly) mid range fuel/air circuits.
 

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"It sound ugly from 2k to 4k, but sounds very cool above 5k" - jonasx2 quote

It ain't just carb sync alone causing problems at that high of engine RPM. Probably something wrong in the carburetor's slow speed (and possibly) mid range fuel/air circuits.
And another reason to check the valves first; maybe even a compression test.
 

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I think it is the plug you put in the tire. :)
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It could be the valves as well... Now i feel like the bike should be checked by professionals, is it expensive to check and adjust both vales and carb sync?
 

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Guess it depends on your location, and what you consider expensive; if you watch that video, you'll see it's kind of a lot of work.
 

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A lot of work and only necessary every 26,000 miles according to Yamaha motors.:smile_big:

Unless you have skills and lots of knowledge, don't even attempt to adjust those valves as you will probably mess it all up!:surprise:

In the video above, notice that all that work is just to take measurements. If SHIMS need to be replaced, in many instances, the Camshafts have to be removed and even professionals take their time and bite their nails during this scenario:sad:

Praise the Lord of Motorcycles for giving us Hydraulic Valves and if not, screw and locknut adjustment and if not by putting those cylinders right out in the open like on Goldwings, my CTX1300, past BMW's and others.:grin:

WORD:grin:

Sam:nerd:
 

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It will cost a lot more than a new tire
 

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I got lost further up the page. The OP says the throttle cable has drag. So that should make the twist grip hard to turn. How does anything else except the throttle cable, or the twist grip, have an effect? I guess the carbs may stiff when opening. But that can be tested by hand.

Clutch cables manage to get difficult to pull after a while. Lubing with one of the screw on things helps. A new cable helps even more, and save the old one as a spare. That also allows time for the lube to slide down while it is hanging.

UK
 

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UK, the OP decided it wasn't the throttle cable after all, but an imbalance in the cylinders that created his uneven idle problems. So, that comes down to throttle sync and valves, if we assume the problem is fairly simple.
 

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UK, the OP decided it wasn't the throttle cable after, but an imbalance in the cylinders that created his uneven idle problems. So, that comes down to throttle sync and valves, if we assume the problem is fairly simple.
K, got it. So the original heading was a bit misleading. Not the first time that has happened lately.

UK
 

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UK, the OP decided it wasn't the throttle cable after all, but an imbalance in the cylinders that created his uneven idle problems. So, that comes down to throttle sync and valves, if we assume the problem is fairly simple.
With the OP staring out assuming there is a problem with cables then settling on a carb sync diagnoses...
I've seen that movie before.
Although most of the time the story is... I cleaned the carburetors, it runs bad (as told above) and I need the carb sync set then it will run right.
Simple but it never 'pans-out'. Usually the carbs need to be cleaned correctly and/or there is some other problem.
If setting the carb sync fixes it that would be simply lucky. :plain:
It could be the valves as well... Now i feel like the bike should be checked by professionals, is it expensive to check and adjust both vales and carb sync?
Yep, time to give it to a pro.
BUT, I'd recommend asking them to diagnose the problem. No need to pay for work that may not be needed.

Also, they are going to want to test ride it. They should know about the plug in the tire.
Just sayin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Sorry that I started this aiming to the throttle cable, but after a deep looking, I discarded cable problems, both throttle and clutch cables seemed me just fine, so now the problem could be a carb sync problem, valves or sticky parts inside the carb.
 
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