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have a 2003 bigdog chopper
been having some problems with it but have done all the repair work myself
recently tuned the carburetor, changed plugs and oil and for the last 2 days it has been riding great. took it out today and about a half hour into my ride i was coming to a stop and the bike kicked out of gear. pushed it into a parking lot. tried to restart my bike and it wont start, but make a whining sound. got it on the trailer and home to inspect. pulled the primary cover off to see what was happening. cover off and gears, flywheel, clutch all exposed. pushed the start button the starter engages the flywheel, but nothing else engages, just makes a whining noise. please help
 

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So, basically, the flywheel has become disconnected from the crankshaft. My question is, what locks them together, some kind of shear pin or key? A parts diagram would answer that question. In any case, either a locking device between the flywheel and crankshaft has sheared, or the shaft at the flywheel is broken. Either one means an engine tear-down, but the latter would be much more $$ if not under warranty.
 

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WinterSol is right on point, the flywheel and the crank are no longer connected the way they are supposed to be. Is there metal shavings or chunks in the bottom of the primary?
 

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Do you have a manual by chance? Can you even get one? Do you know whose primary it is?
 

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Clarify please

Confusion here.
Is the flywheel turning freely by hand with the engine off? Or is the flywheel turning while the engine is running?

Angel would likely know how the flywheel is connected to the crank.

Unkle Crusty*
 

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Is the chain that connects the flywheel to the clutch basket spinning when you use the starter? If so, the crankshaft is not spinning with the flywheel; if not, the clutch is suspect.

Found a photo; is this what yours looks like? http://i.ytimg.com/vi/GTVNj9uxKks/hqdefault.jpg
If so, the flywheel is part of the clutch assembly, so it is likely the clutch has to be engaged to turn the crankshaft via that chain. If that is true, then something is keeping the clutch disengaged. Cable or hydraulic? Cable is a simple adjustment, or lubrication. From what I've found it is a cable.

Hydraulic is possible junk in the bottom of the master cylinder reservoir, blocking the pressure release hole, so that pressure builds up in the slave, releasing the clutch.
 

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top secret tool

now listen this doesn't always work, and some people don't think much of it.

IF you buy a bike, google the make, and see if it says anything like, clutch, or engine tuning or forks, and if it does you might reconsider your purchase... the truth is that if it is on google, it probably has problems that lots of people have searched for... google is a search engine. and inorder to get front page, you have to get millions of hits.

So my advice is for you to find a buyer quick, and get yourself a better machine, built by someone who doesn't leave you in a lurch.

sorry for you, sounds like you really like to ride... I think after you get the flywheel off, you will find probably a keyed shaft with a missing or sheared off key.
Now take this to heart, get the right size key or don't put one in it, the wrong key will eventually ruin your shaft. good luck with that.
 

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There's a HUGE confusion in terminology being used here. For example, your flywheel(s) are part of the crankshaft assembly so if they're disconnected your engine is completely wrecked. That doesn't sound like the case.

Why don't you take the picture WinterSol linked too and put some actual markings on it referring to the parts you're talking about. We can go from there.
 

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Eye is right, here. The actual flywheel is the small, but heavy, wheel behind the smaller primary drive sprocket, on the left in that photo. What looks like a flywheel, driven by the starter motor, is just a large diameter toothed wheel, connected to the clutch basket. That toothed wheel appears to be connected directly to the sprocket driven by the primary drive chain, as in this drawing, item #28: http://bakerdrivetrain.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/BDMdrive-line-service-manual.pdf
If the large toothed wheel is turning when the starter is active, and the primary chain is not, that outer part of the clutch basket is broken; it seems to be one piece, but the scan isn't good enough to tell.
 

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You're close, WinterSol. The heavy looking wheel you see is actually the rotor. It's to the left in the picture behind what's called the compensator sprocket. The flywheels, (there's two of them,) are inside the engine case and can't be seen unless you split open the cases.

The geared piece attached to the clutch basket is the ring gear, and you're right that if that's turning and the clutch basket is not then the ring gear has separated from the basket. (Usually they're riveted together.)
 

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now listen this doesn't always work, and some people don't think much of it.

IF you buy a bike, google the make, and see if it says anything like, clutch, or engine tuning or forks, and if it does you might reconsider your purchase... the truth is that if it is on google, it probably has problems that lots of people have searched for... google is a search engine. and inorder to get front page, you have to get millions of hits.

So my advice is for you to find a buyer quick, and get yourself a better machine, built by someone who doesn't leave you in a lurch.

sorry for you, sounds like you really like to ride... I think after you get the flywheel off, you will find probably a keyed shaft with a missing or sheared off key.
Now take this to heart, get the right size key or don't put one in it, the wrong key will eventually ruin your shaft. good luck with that.
Yeah, it is a good idea to look for the weak spots through an internet search. That doesn't mean one should get rid of a bike based upon those weak spots. Fer instance, how's the fuse box on your XS 11? That's a known weak spot for them. Odds are good someone has come along and developed a fix for the problem. This gives you bargaining chips for buying a bike as well as avoiding a head ache by not buying one. But they've already got this one and may be well on the way to a repair based upon the advice in here.

I'm liking this thread as I'm more familiar with singles, twins, fours, and one six cylinder. Getting a look under the primary cover with some knowledgeable folks narrating is a huge plus in my book.
 

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Is the chain that connects the flywheel to the clutch basket spinning when you use the starter? If so, the crankshaft is not spinning with the flywheel; if not, the clutch is suspect.

Found a photo; is this what yours looks like? http://i.ytimg.com/vi/GTVNj9uxKks/hqdefault.jpg
If so, the flywheel is part of the clutch assembly, so it is likely the clutch has to be engaged to turn the crankshaft via that chain. If that is true, then something is keeping the clutch disengaged. Cable or hydraulic? Cable is a simple adjustment, or lubrication. From what I've found it is a cable.

Hydraulic is possible junk in the bottom of the master cylinder reservoir, blocking the pressure release hole, so that pressure builds up in the slave, releasing the clutch.
Can't you start one of these with the clutch lever pulled in? I'd think the starter mechanism would work through the engine side of the clutch, not the transmission side.
 

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Xs11

Yeah, it is a good idea to look for the weak spots through an internet search. That doesn't mean one should get rid of a bike based upon those weak spots. Fer instance, how's the fuse box on your XS 11? That's a known weak spot for them. Odds are good someone has come along and developed a fix for the problem. This gives you bargaining chips for buying a bike as well as avoiding a head ache by not buying one. But they've already got this one and may be well on the way to a repair based upon the advice in here.

I'm liking this thread as I'm more familiar with singles, twins, fours, and one six cylinder. Getting a look under the primary cover with some knowledgeable folks narrating is a huge plus in my book.
One of the members on the XS11 site has an upgraded fuse box available. I have not ordered mine yet. The little clips in the original fuse box are replaceable and available, according to Super Dave. My XS11 has inline fuses that I will remove when I get the new unit.
How is your knowledge on Crush washers in middle drives.
Maybe I should start a new thread.

Unkle Crusty*
 

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One of the members on the XS11 site has an upgraded fuse box available. I have not ordered mine yet. The little clips in the original fuse box are replaceable and available, according to Super Dave. My XS11 has inline fuses that I will remove when I get the new unit.
How is your knowledge on Crush washers in middle drives.
Maybe I should start a new thread.

Unkle Crusty*
I don't know diddly about 'em. TBH, I had to google the XS11 weakness. Done just to make a point. All bikes, except the ones I have owned of course, have weak spots. :)

I did have a friend with an XS11 years ago. Let me have a go on it. Ya learns what the XS means.
 

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Xs11

I don't know diddly about 'em. TBH, I had to google the XS11 weakness. Done just to make a point. All bikes, except the ones I have owned of course, have weak spots. :)

I did have a friend with an XS11 years ago. Let me have a go on it. Ya learns what the XS means.
Few of the newer bikes can out haul a good XS11, but they cost a lot more. Mine is a good match for a 1200 Sportster up to 100, and then Yami is quicker.
The Harley has more grunt off the line.
The newer Spotsters handle a bit better. I followed Roy's 1200 the other day on my XS400. It is quite stable while my light bike was spronging about.

Hope the OP gets her bike problem sorted.

Unkle Crusty*
 
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