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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It all started when I decided to move Inder the sidecar, back one inch on Yami. I removed Inder.
Then I thought maybe I would take Yami for a long ride. Good plan so far. BUT, out on the freeway, the front wheel started chattering at 120 kph, got worse at 140 ( 90 ) and a bit better at 160.
I deduced it was the beads in the front tyre. So I took it to the bike shop and asked them to balance it the proppa way. I had replaced the bearings.
While Yami was apart, I decided to replace the fork seals. Had difficulty finding the large seals, and they are in the mail. Small seals not available anywhere, so I decided to get thicker seals, and hold them in place with something like locktite. Those are waiting for me to pick up.

Meanwhile I bought another bike for spares. One year newer, but the same silly front end as Yami. I bolted in the new forks yesterday, and got ready for a test ride. Battery not enough volts. Added acid to the battery I had for Laramie. And off we went.
Got a scrape scrape in the front end. Stopped to check, and Yami would not start. Blown fuse. Did it again up Island.
Today I took the wheel out again, manual has many errors, and turned the spacer around, between the bearings. I studied the book, and my spare wheel. Back together, just tested. Okay on a short run to 120, and the fuse has stopped blowing.

The wheel does not spin as freely as I would like. And the wheel itself is too heavy. But if it runs and stops and wobbles a little, we should be fine.

UK
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
This looks like an interesting post. There are a few things happening here worthy of note.

Beads to balance. We had a long thread about this a while back. Short version: The beads did not work. We suspect the front wheel on Yami is too heavy. Clue was the chattering got a bit better at higher speeds, and was okay under a certain speed. Test yesterday at over 90 for a short while. No problems with weights.

10 amp fuse blowing. Probably when the key is turned on. Could be a short, but could be too many watts for the fuse to handle.
The ignition is powered, plus two idiot lights, the tail light and head light. Without counting watts, that may be too much. I put a 15 amp fuse in. If it blows it is most likely a short. Stock the bike has a delay for the headlight, that comes on after the engine has fired. That delay relay can fry, which it did, so I took it out of the loop.

The battery. Lesson here is; if the battery is always on a tender, you may not notice it is getting tired. Yami was off the tender for about 3 weeks. The new battery is sealed. All six chambers are filled at the same time. The battery goes to 12.75 volts in about 20 minutes, without being charged. Instructions say to charge for 12 hours, low amps, after the 20 minutes.

The spacer between the bearings in the front wheel, may need to go in, in a specific direction. Pay attention if you are changing the wheel bearings.

You guys do change your own bearings, and batteries, and fork seals, and other stuff??

UK
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Do you carry spare fuses, and know where they are on the bike? Have you checked the tool box lately? You need a 14mm spanner to remove the seat on an XS1100. But first the saddle backs have to come off. If they are locked on, do you have the key?

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On The Road Again!
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The battery. Lesson here is; if the battery is always on a tender, you may not notice it is getting tired.
UK
A battery going down when off the tender may not necessarily be a bad battery.
These new bikes (and cars) have a lot of computer equipment that is creating a
parasitic draw even when parked. On mine, there is a small computer keeping
the clock alive.
If you don't run it, or keep it on the tender, it may go down after a few weeks.
What I want to know is....
What happened to "Off means OFF!?
(all of our appliances are like this now too. No more "off".
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
A battery going down when off the tender may not necessarily be a bad battery.
These new bikes (and cars) have a lot of computer equipment that is creating a
parasitic draw even when parked. On mine, there is a small computer keeping
the clock alive.
If you don't run it, or keep it on the tender, it may go down after a few weeks.
What I want to know is....
What happened to "Off means OFF!?
(all of our appliances are like this now too. No more "off".

Good point.
Two bikes have clocks, that have a small drain. Yami, the bike in question does not. Off should be off.
But I have had the same discussion with the guy in the stereo store, about the CD player for the boat.

UK
 

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Retired twice: Navy and as a govt contractor
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Don't you have a battery switch on the boat? It will have an 'off' possition. If you have it wired correctly it will be a true off. Well except for the bilge pump which should be wired directly to the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Don't you have a battery switch on the boat? It will have an 'off' possition. If you have it wired correctly it will be a true off. Well except for the bilge pump which should be wired directly to the battery.
Yus.
The main batteries are always on, to provide power to the auto bilge pump. They are also receiving amps from the solar panels.
The radio has a separate switch to shut off the power. BUT. If the power is turned off, when it is turned back on again, the radio goes in to demo mode. And that is rather annoying. So the radio always has power supplied to it. There is enough power going in to the batteries to keep them charged.

Another switch turns the solar panels on and off. They get turned off when plugged in to shore power, or when Clunky is running.
I do have access to 12 volt power, direct from the main batteries.

Without the solar panels, and or any other source of charging, the battery, or batteries, would be off off, via the switch.

UK. One float bowl is dripping on Yami. GRRRrrrrrr.
 
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