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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok. So I was broke down for a day at the mall. I took out my spark plugs and they were garbage. The front cylinder Spark plugs center electrode was almost GONE. the Arm was there just Electrode was flush with the insulator TIP. The plugs have been in there for 13 months and this is a Daily rider. i installed a new set of NGK and the bike started right over. I rode that bike for the remainder of the night turning it off and on on several occasions. I would say a total of another 60 miles were put on it locally. Came home, Went to sleep, Woke up and Bike wont start. I checked for spark and my front cylinder doesnt spark when the engine is turning over but sparks a couple times when i let go of the ignition button. Now this throws up a few flags for me, I could think of a few things.
1) coils
2) Ignition switch
3) Engine getting enough power to turn over but not enough to the ignite
4) Battery not supplying enough juice, But my battery is only 2 months old.

One question. Could the DECOMPRESSION RELAY stop the spark plugs from sparking or does that just control the Decompression solenoid ONLY?

OH BTW. i jumped the bike from my wifes car and it started up.

So i want to run a few test but i want to make sure these are the test i should run.
1) What voltage is my batter after a full chage
2) What is the voltage drop when i start the engine
3) Check the ohm reading from both the coils with a multi meter

Anything else? i will do all the test i need and repost the results.
 

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American Legion Rider
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Have you tried recharging your battery. If it fired jumping it then it sounds like your new battery is just drained. Each time you start the bike it takes about 8 miles to recharge the battery from what it took to start it. So several starts in a row is going to pull the battery down significantly. Add maybe a weak charging system and you have to potential of a very weak battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes the battery has been charged. Every night it goes on a 1.5 or a two amp motorcycle maintenance trickle charger.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I also checked the AC volts and DC volts of my charging system before I got the new battery 2 months ago and everything checked out okay
 

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Make sure all the battery cables are clean - at both ends. Then, check the connector between the alternator stator output and rectifier/regulator, as they are known to heat up from poor connections; its the one with three thick yellow wires. Also, take your battery to get it tested - all that cranking could have overworked it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
All the connections are clean. I checked all those things a few days ago when the car broke down. Today is Monday April down on Thursday. You don't mind me asking what do you mean by all that starting. Battery is only 2 months old I've only tried to crank it a few times since I have been working on it. When I'm not working on it the battery is that a 1.5 or 2 amp charger at all times. When I get a chance I will be testing the battery at a local advance auto parts store but are there any other tests with my voltage meter do you think I should do before coming up with any results
 

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clean doesn't mean sh**
make sure you are getting good contacts in your connectors.
 

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The 43rd Poser
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I've got a '98 VL1500 on my lift right now....

Waiting on carb kits.

To clarify, is your battery on a trickle charger, or a tender?

If the battery is bad, the trickle may or may not be beneficial. I believe I would start with a new battery.

The one on my lift belongs to a good Brother, hasn't ran in a few years, and he couldn't get it to fire. I put it on a tender for a couple days, cleaned the carbs, drained the fuel, new fuel filter and lines, new air cleaner, oil change, new oil filter, new spark plugs... put it all together and got it running on the front cylinder only. Had spark, so I worked on the left carb and finally got it running on both, but with bad backfire from the rear. Upon doing some checking, and a good ear, I believe the needle and valve were bad. So now the kits should be in tomorrow, the carbs are on the bench again, and we'll see what happens.

Not a lot of help to your situation... just sharing mine.
 

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You don't mind me asking what do you mean by all that starting. Battery is only 2 months old I've only tried to crank it a few times since I have been working on it.
Your post made it sound like you tried cranking it several times at each attempt. The starter motor is only good for about 30 seconds, then a rest, or it will overheat, and draw even more battery power.
When I'm not working on it the battery is that a 1.5 or 2 amp charger at all times. When I get a chance I will be testing the battery at a local advance auto parts store but are there any other tests with my voltage meter do you think I should do before coming up with any results
Just FYI, 1.5A is the maximum rate that battery should be charged, and will cause the battery to bubble inside (even an AGM or gel battery) if it goes on more than a few minutes. If it is a smart tender type, that automatically senses the battery and shuts off, it's probably OK, but if a normal or 'trickle' charger, it probably cooked the battery. If you have a Volt meter, measure the Voltage when you disconnect the charger, then about 15-20 minutes later; it may be near 14V at first, then settle to 12.6V, which is full charge. While measuring the battery, turn the key on; the Voltage will drop some, but if it drops below about 12V, the battery is gone.
 

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Your post made it sound like you tried cranking it several times at each attempt. The starter motor is only good for about 30 seconds, then a rest, or it will overheat, and draw even more battery power.

Just FYI, 1.5A is the maximum rate that battery should be charged, and will cause the battery to bubble inside (even an AGM or gel battery) if it goes on more than a few minutes. If it is a smart tender type, that automatically senses the battery and shuts off, it's probably OK, but if a normal or 'trickle' charger, it probably cooked the battery. If you have a Volt meter, measure the Voltage when you disconnect the charger, then about 15-20 minutes later; it may be near 14V at first, then settle to 12.6V, which is full charge. While measuring the battery, turn the key on; the Voltage will drop some, but if it drops below about 12V, the battery is gone.

Thanks that's all I need to hear, my Battery showing 9v...so time to buy one!
 

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Thanks that's all I need to hear, my Battery showing 9v...so time to buy one!
It would sure be nice and appreciated, if you would introduce yourself to the community in the New Member Introduction forum. Folks tend to open up more if they believe they know someone just a little bit. 👍

 
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