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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1990 Suzuki Intruder 1400, it was running fine until literally out of no where is stopped going. It goes into gear (if i put it into gear, its engaged, as in i cant push it forward manually so I dont think its the trans or drive shaft. But if i let the clutch out it doesnt move. Im pretty machanicly inclined but thats with cars either way i feel comfortable fixing this myself im just looking for possible causes and things to look at. I havent tried anything yet, wanted to wait until i get some advice. It had a recent oil change but since it sat for many years before i got it i was gonna do that again (i also rebuilt the master, and changed all fluids, plugs, etc).
 

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'changed all fluids' means clutch and brake fluid, right? When you did this, did you flush it through the bleeders on the clutch slave and calipers?
After it has gotten into the no-move condition, does it still not move with the engine off and in gear?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yeah, i bleed everything multiple times, thats not to say it may not need it again. put it in gear, not running, and the tires are locked up like its in gear, put it in neutral and it pushes freely.
 

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yeah, i bleed everything multiple times, thats not to say it may not need it again. put it in gear, not running, and the tires are locked up like its in gear, put it in neutral and it pushes freely.
But, is this AFTER you have tried it with the engine running? Sequence: start engine, put in gear, release clutch - no move? - kill engine still in gear, release clutch, push bike - won't move?
That sequence is important. If it behaves this way, it gives clues to what may be broken.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
it happeneed a few months ago while out riding. stopped at a red light, it turned green and my bike just reved. I forget if i had to put it in nuetral to push it home or not. I tried a few ties hoping it would magicaly start working again but im not that lucky, so i parked it for the winter. now income tax refunds arnt far off so i will have some cash to fix it. next day its not raining i'll get her going and see what happens. I do know that with the engine off, i can put it in gear and i cant push it, and with it running itsin gear but acts like its in neutral. i havent tried to actually see if i can push it while its in gear and running.
 

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OK, if it quit on a ride, it could be simply a blockage of the pressure relief hole between the reservoir and master cylinder; when the fluid heats up, it expands, and, if that hole is blocked, the pressure built up keeps the clutch from engaging all the way. Of course, this heating happens most when stopped. The slipping clutch can keep the engine from pulling the bike, but still stick just enough that you can't push it in gear. So, if it works when first started and cold, but then fails after a time riding, use a fine bit of wire from a brass brush to clear that hole.

BTW, that bike is nearly 20 years old - have the clutch and brake lines been replaced? Suzuki recommends about every seven years, which seems too often to me, but it probably should be done, if it hasn't by now. The inside of the rubber flexible lines begins to flake away, and those bits can come back to the MC and clog those small holes.
 

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OK, if it quit on a ride, it could be simply a blockage of the pressure relief hole between the reservoir and master cylinder; when the fluid heats up, it expands, and, if that hole is blocked, the pressure built up keeps the clutch from engaging all the way. Of course, this heating happens most when stopped. The slipping clutch can keep the engine from pulling the bike, but still stick just enough that you can't push it in gear. So, if it works when first started and cold, but then fails after a time riding, use a fine bit of wire from a brass brush to clear that hole.

BTW, that bike is nearly 20 years old - have the clutch and brake lines been replaced? Suzuki recommends about every seven years, which seems too often to me, but it probably should be done, if it hasn't by now. The inside of the rubber flexible lines begins to flake away, and those bits can come back to the MC and clog those small holes.
^ That, and it's a LONG line too...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
its almost 30 years old lol. I have no idea when they were last replaced. the po took pretty good care of it until he had a work injury and could no longer ride. He parked it hoping he would be able to again but after 5 years of it sitting he realized he needed to sell it. so its probably time for new lines.
 

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its almost 30 years old lol. I have no idea when they were last replaced. the po took pretty good care of it until he had a work injury and could no longer ride. He parked it hoping he would be able to again but after 5 years of it sitting he realized he needed to sell it. so its probably time for new lines.
Yeah, brain [email protected] on my part. For replacements, you can probably still find the stainless-wrapped Teflon-lined version. I found a set from Motion Pro for my VS800, and the brakes felt a LOT better to me. Bonus: the Teflon doesn't shed particles like the rubber ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
im gonna get what ever i can find that i can afford. honestly theres a fair amount of work i need to do so it comes down to priorities. First priority is make bike go again, i'll be alot more inclined to fix it if i can drive it lol. next is a carb, the rear carb is held together with tie wire. amazingy it still works, which is good since carbs seem to impossible to find. Techniclly i just need the carb body.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
thanks you everyone for the help, but we just had a huge storm her in BC and went 5 days with out power. long story short, the wind put a tree on my bike and jeep :'( :'( :'( im gonna try to fix her but i think the frame is ****ed :'(
 

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Dang, that really sucks. I hope everyone is unharmed. Would if be worth it to find a frame from a salvage yard and build it back up? Or will insurance allow you to even do that? I'm assuming your homeowners insurance would cover it. Or does it work that way there?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
i have legal issues that make it hard to get insurance. lol but finding a used frame then swapping it over seems like alot, especially when going price for a 1400 intruder is roughly $2500. its just the end of my baby, so its sad. but i looked at a to harleys yesterday im interested in. ones a trike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
update:
i found a parts bike for free with out a motor!!!! unfortunatly my clutch issue are worse. now it rolls freely in gear. it sounds like it clicks into gear but it rolls freely :( trans or clutch, what you all thinking?
(also i ended up buying the trike)
 

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update:
i found a parts bike for free with out a motor!!!! unfortunatly my clutch issue are worse. now it rolls freely in gear. it sounds like it clicks into gear but it rolls freely :( trans or clutch, what you all thinking?
(also i ended up buying the trike)
Have you removed the pumpkin, and verified the drive line is intact? If the splines where the shaft enters the pumpkin weren't serviced often enough, they can dry out and rust away. Less common, the U-joint end can fail. Next come the transmission final drive gears, followed by the over-running clutch control, which can stick in the released position if it fails. It's a lot easier to take the cover off the clutch, just to see if the rear wheel is trying to turn it, than to bust the case to look at the transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
a buddy told me that theres a "dog pin" or somthing made to sheer off to prevent further damage and that i should check that first. anyone know anything about that?
 

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I can't think of a 'dog pin', or shear pin, but there is the combo of parts #6 , #8 , and #9 on this drawing: https://www.partsoutlaw.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d36cc4f870021ee0216059/secondary-drive-gear
If you get in there, you have to carefully measure and adjust the shims, #13 and #14 , so the gears mesh properly. This is covered in the service manual.
If you look at the propeller shaft/read drive, you won't see anything like a pin that can shear: https://www.partsoutlaw.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d36cc6f870021ee021605b/propeller-shaft-final-drive-gear
BTW, the splines on the RH end of #39 are the ones that can fail. Once you have those checked, then it may be time to look into the secondary drive gear assembly.
 
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