Motorcycle Forum banner

suzuki gz250 no ignition (with pics)

7K views 2 replies 2 participants last post by  ztd3u 
#1 ·
Hey everyone, I could use some help.

I've been out of the country for about 8 months, and I left my 2003 Suzuki GZ250 in my friend's back yard (covered). I asked him to start it up and let it run from time to time. The last time he tried to do this, about a month ago, it wouldn't turn over at all. Just dead. He checked the battery and the fuses and they seemed fine.

He took apart the casing around the kill switch and ignition switch and saw that there is a wire that has come unattached from...somewhere (it's orange and white). It seems likely that this is the problem, but neither of us know very much. Below is a link to some photos that he sent me (just add "https://" before it. I wasn't allowed to post a link). I have a long ride ahead of me when I get back next week, and I"d like to have some sort of idea of what I will have to deal with. Can anyone help me out here? Is that probably the problem?

Thanks a lot.
postimg.cc/gallery/1a3w0hape/
 
#2 · (Edited)
Did you get that wire fixed and battery charged and still no ignition?
there would be 3 wires in that casing. You say he took apart the casing for the kill switch, and the ignition? that does NOT sound right. as said there would be 3 wires by the kill switch one would always be HOT with key on, then ( most likely ) with kill sw. ON it would supply power to the ignition circuit and to the starter solenoid or starter relay coil.

So, with battery up and good as known by a load test, does starter crank over engine? Have you pulled a plug/or plugs to verify seeing a spark at the plug?
Do you have 12 volts + at both sides of ignition coil? if not you should, you should have 12 volts+ right up to the points are and if the condenser is bad, you are not likely to get the spark you need. If it is electronic ignition, you could have the module where the points would be and the means for timing, like a metal cup with a cut or 2 in it for a 2 cyl. and a tiny coil and magnet that the cup spins between. Also a wire or wires that goes right to the coil/s, other side of coils being grounded, or maybe module is elsewhere with 2 or 3 wires 2 for 1 cyl or 3 for 2 cyl, thes wires go to the module with a + line to power it and a wire or two for the coil or coils, hard to say really but it should give you some kind of an idea. get the service manual.
 
#3 ·
Thanks for the reply. So, I was able to determine that the problem was with the unattached wire. It had been soldered on previously and came loose.

I soldered it back on, but evidently did a bit of a sloppy job. Now, the bike starts as soon as the kill switch is turned on, without having to hit the starter switch.

I am planning to get this fixed professionally soon, but I'm currently traveling back home and don't have time to do that. Did I create a dangerous situation here? If so, I can just un-attach it again and keep push starting it, but if it isn't going to catch on fire or something, I would rather just wait.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top