Welcome to the forum Chris. You need to start with the basics. Are you getting a spark? If you pull the plug wire and set it next to the engine and then crank it you should see a visible spark. If you get a spark you can eliminate almost any interlock issues and move on to fuel issues. My guess is that your bike has a carburetor. If so, make sure it is choked when you try to start the engine. If you make an attempt and then can smell gasoline at the exhaust you are getting fuel. So what all do you need to start an engine? You need fuel, a spark at the right time and air for combustion. If you have a spark and fuel, check for a plugged up air cleaner.
Suzuki GZ marauder 125cc won't start
Hi
My Suzuki will not start and I'm confused as to why. I have taken the battery out and recharged it but I am getting nothing after charging. The headlights and dash etc are fine so I know it's not a flat battery. Is it something with the clutch or kickstand switch and if so how do I find out? Any help please
My Suzuki will not start and I'm confused as to why. I have taken the battery out and recharged it but I am getting nothing after charging. The headlights and dash etc are fine so I know it's not a flat battery. Is it something with the clutch or kickstand switch and if so how do I find out? Any help please
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well Im not getting nothing out of your post. Is this a NO CRANK or a NO START siituation?Hi
My Suzuki will not start and I'm ... getting nothing it's not a flat battery. Is it something with the clutch or kickstand switch and if so how do I find out? Any help please
No crank diagnostics
Since i've already written a no start diagnosticc tree mebbe its time I wrote a no-crank diagnostic proceddure.
Start by checking battery voltage. Should be 12.5 or above. If below 12.0 volts chancess are no amou t of recharging will 'ccure' it. BVuy a new one.
Doess your headlighht illuminate whenn you turn the key?
No. Check / replacce Main fuse. Headlight wwork now?
No:Remove and clean battery terminal and cablees with baking soda, unbolt main ground from frame, clean to bare metal wwith sanddpaper, re--attach.
Does headlight illuminate now? Yes - co ntiuuee. No? Diagnose ignition switch.
Wiith bike in Neutral or on ceenter stand AND both ignition AND kill switch off, jump frrom B+ to main post on starter. Does starter spin?
NO? Remove and bench test starter.
Yes? Same precautions as above. Jump from B+ to start terminal on starter solenoid.. Does sttarter spin?
No? remove and bench test solenoid IF it is integral to tthe starter.
No? Checck solenoid inputss fromo kickstan switch, neutral safety, kill switch
Yes? Why are you still reading this?
Yes? Check solenoid input frrom starter switch and make ssure it
s getting 12v when you presss the starter button.
DO NOT connect auuttomotive batteryy chargere on "Engine Start" poossition to jump sttarat MC battery.
I,m sure I'll think of more to add and correcctions but this will get U sttarted diagnosing a no-crank..
LEVEL 2 -- voltage drop tests.
Put red lead of multimeter on B+, black lead on starter main post. Standard precautiionnss apply - neutral or centeer stand, but start/run sswitch to run.
Press start button. If more than .5 voltss (positive OR negative) then bad or diirty or loose B+ connection at battery or starter endd or chafed cable
Move black lead to start input on start solenoid.
Press start button. Measure .5V orr less otherwwisse sstart switch is bad, ddirtyy contaccts
Since i've already written a no start diagnosticc tree mebbe its time I wrote a no-crank diagnostic proceddure.
Start by checking battery voltage. Should be 12.5 or above. If below 12.0 volts chancess are no amou t of recharging will 'ccure' it. BVuy a new one.
Doess your headlighht illuminate whenn you turn the key?
No. Check / replacce Main fuse. Headlight wwork now?
No:Remove and clean battery terminal and cablees with baking soda, unbolt main ground from frame, clean to bare metal wwith sanddpaper, re--attach.
Does headlight illuminate now? Yes - co ntiuuee. No? Diagnose ignition switch.
Wiith bike in Neutral or on ceenter stand AND both ignition AND kill switch off, jump frrom B+ to main post on starter. Does starter spin?
NO? Remove and bench test starter.
Yes? Same precautions as above. Jump from B+ to start terminal on starter solenoid.. Does sttarter spin?
No? remove and bench test solenoid IF it is integral to tthe starter.
No? Checck solenoid inputss fromo kickstan switch, neutral safety, kill switch
Yes? Why are you still reading this?
Yes? Check solenoid input frrom starter switch and make ssure it
s getting 12v when you presss the starter button.
DO NOT connect auuttomotive batteryy chargere on "Engine Start" poossition to jump sttarat MC battery.
I,m sure I'll think of more to add and correcctions but this will get U sttarted diagnosing a no-crank..
LEVEL 2 -- voltage drop tests.
Put red lead of multimeter on B+, black lead on starter main post. Standard precautiionnss apply - neutral or centeer stand, but start/run sswitch to run.
Press start button. If more than .5 voltss (positive OR negative) then bad or diirty or loose B+ connection at battery or starter endd or chafed cable
Move black lead to start input on start solenoid.
Press start button. Measure .5V orr less otherwwisse sstart switch is bad, ddirtyy contaccts
i have a 2001 Suzuki marauder with a similar issue, all the lights work and it cranks but wont run ....just keeps hesitating. it sat for a bit so im wondering if i might need to check carbs let me know plz. any help will be greatful.
How long has it been sitting?
As mentioned, also should check that there's sparks/
As mentioned, also should check that there's sparks/
Welcome to the forum , all the info you can provide will help us help you .. is tank clean ? Is there fuel out of the petcock .? Has it been parked for a while ? How long ...? Do you have fuel at carbs ? Will it crank over ? Have you checked for spark ?i have a 2001 Suzuki marauder with a similar issue, all the lights work and it cranks but wont run ....just keeps hesitating. it sat for a bit so im wondering if i might need to check carbs let me know plz. any help will be greatful.
ive checked everything on the list it fired up the other day and ran for like 15sec. but now its back to hesitating again. this is only my second bike and I'm not a mechanic so I'm learning a lot from these forums. plz let me know what yawl think it is now , I'm wondering if it comes down to the carbs
If you spray carb cleaner into intake , does it start ? If yes , carb cleaning ...l
Yep. Time to clean / go thru the carburetors.it sat for a bit so im wondering if i might need to check carbs
Which 2001 Suzuki Marauder?
S F
2001 Suzuki marauder vz800 vtwin
its blue with the angel winglike symbols on gas tank. forgive me if i sound ignorant lol.
You are forgiven , ..... LOL...
last bike i ever owned was a 1985 suzuki savage 650 and some dirt bikes from when i was younger about 30yrs ago lol. my uncle did all the work on them.
We can guide you ....Don't feel alone ...Everybody needs help , now and then ...
VZ800,2001 Suzuki marauder vz800 vtwin
That particular model uses two totally different carburetors. The front is a downdraft and the rear a side draft carburetor. A handful of cables link the two and control them. If you're going to work on it yourself it is imperative that you learn and understand what each cable does and how to correctly adjust them. Unfortunately this model is probably the worst for a guy to lean how to do carburetors on. If you have questions, maybe some of us can help.
S F
i have learned that you don't want to mess with the sync cables when you pull both carbs out choke and throttle cables seem easy enough. Thanks to all that have helped I'm doing a little at a time due to working 7days a week lol.
Sync cable ? Low side or high throttle ? Do you know the difference ?
There were several Suzy models that use the same type of carburetor set-up as your bike. On some models (all? don't remember) cables route under frame bracing and such. I do not think you can pull the carburetors out with the synch cables still connected. Not that it matters because just handling (or touching) the cables can screw up the synch. Even putting the tank back on will screw up the synch IF you do not have the cables arranged in such a way that NOTHING can touch, or push against them after install.i have learned that you don't want to mess with the sync cables when you pull both carbs out choke and throttle cables seem easy enough. Thanks to all that have helped I'm doing a little at a time due to working 7days a week lol.
A guy can not fix those carburetors without first learning how to deal with all of those cables... No getting around it.
We have some members here that have owned and serviced bikes like yours. Maybe they will chime in as they will have a better memory of helpful hints and details. (I've slept a few times since I last did one of those machines). Lol
S F
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