[Critter]

Good job, glad you stuck in there and got it out.

 

[DE Nichols]

I have an old VW bus on which I snapped an exhaust stud - right after having the heads rebuilt... Darn it! I ended up partially drilling it out as you have and then just tapped the hole as-is for a slightly smaller bolt. Problem was I was going to make things worse if I kept going.

There's about 25K miles on that now since that bit of hackery.

I was going to suggest tapping the hole as is, but I'm glad you finally had success!

Because of stories like this I occasionally loosen and retighten my exhaust header bolts on my 2017 Yamaha WR250R. If I ever have the need for them to come off, I want them practiced, lol.

 

[Eye_m_no_angel]

Because of stories like this I occasionally loosen and retighten my exhaust header bolts on my 2017 Yamaha WR250R. If I ever have the need for them to come off, I want them practiced, lol.

Brush a little Anti-Sneeze on them, torque them down, and don't worry about it. They'll come off righteously next time you need them to.

 

[Nubsey]

I was just going to suggest a pair of pliers.
I believe snap on replace broken tools free of charge.
Can you not just retap the hole and clean up the threads, should work ok.

 

[DE Nichols]

Shell Rotella 10w-40 does exist!

Now only if I can find it available...

Right now Amazon doesn't have it available in a 55 gallon drum...

(link allowed after 10th post, link for a good joke anyway, though I must say my wife and I did the math and 130 oil changes is a big commitment in purchasing a 55 gallon drum, but it's only $3.45 a quart!)

Teasing.

Found a gallon of it here:
walmart . com /ip/ROTELLA-550019907-Diesel-Motor-Oil-1-gal-10W-40-Bottle/44944526
They'll email me when it's in stock.

I saw on the package that T5 Diesel oil there is $31 and at Napa it's only $26...but at Napaonline, I see no mention of Diesel. Does it have to be T5 Diesel to be meant for Diesel? I hear car motor oil can be a really bad idea in a motorcycle, though my 89 Yamaha XT600 couldn't care less. Wet clutch and all.
www . napaonline . com/en/p/SCA550019907

 

[Critter]

Walmart, Autozone, PepBoys, all carry it.

 

[hogcowboy]

Now only if I can find it available...

Right now Amazon doesn't have it available in a 55 gallon drum...

(link allowed after 10th post, link for a good joke anyway, though I must say my wife and I did the math and 130 oil changes is a big commitment in purchasing a 55 gallon drum, but it's only $3.45 a quart!)

Teasing.

Found a gallon of it here:
walmart . com /ip/ROTELLA-550019907-Diesel-Motor-Oil-1-gal-10W-40-Bottle/44944526
They'll email me when it's in stock.

I saw on the package that T5 Diesel oil there is $31 and at Napa it's only $26...but at Napaonline, I see no mention of Diesel. Does it have to be T5 Diesel to be meant for Diesel? I hear car motor oil can be a really bad idea in a motorcycle, though my 89 Yamaha XT600 couldn't care less. Wet clutch and all.
www . napaonline . com/en/p/SCA550019907

This Tractor Supply ad for it says diesel in the description but I don't see a thing on the bottle. Unlike motorcycle oil, I think engine oil works for both types of engines. The diesel specific if you can find it may have more or less additives. I've used this very one in my Case bucket dozer. Not seen a single problem so far and that almost 10 years now. Was used when I got it anyway so I just went by the API codes which this one met. A later model might not though I suppose. Got a owners manual? If so look at the API/JASO requirement and if this one meets it use it. Motorcycle or car, diesel or gas. The JASO code says it all.

 

[DE Nichols]

Last 2 cents on the wrong thread

This Tractor Supply ad for it says diesel in the description but I don't see a thing on the bottle. Unlike motorcycle oil, I think engine oil works for both types of engines. The diesel specific if you can find it may have more or less additives. I've used this very one in my Case bucket dozer. Not seen a single problem so far and that almost 10 years now. Was used when I got it anyway so I just went by the API codes which this one met. A later model might not though I suppose. Got a owners manual? If so look at the API/JASO requirement and if this one meets it use it. Motorcycle or car, diesel or gas. The JASO code says it all.

Right. The Yamaha's owners manual states that it should meet JASO requirements and that the oil cannot be energy conserving II - I'm assuming that wouldn't be good for the wet clutch.

Thank you for the awesome replies!

I did not intent to comment randomly here so far off topic, lol.

I had intended to put that post on this thread:
https://www.motorcycleforum.com/212-tool-talk/96442-oil-synethic-versus-standard-2.html#post2517632

Interesting, I haven't been able to find the manual online (it's late, I don't want to go down to the garage) but according to a trusted forum this Yamaha Requires JASO-MA oil and that Rotella Diesel oil does fit that. I'll investigate further.

The WR250R forums seem to have almost got it right Shell's Rotella t5 is Jaso MA2, but is it MA? ...now I have to learn what THAT means, lol.

Shell is specifically stating that this line of Shell Rotella Diesel T4-T6 products are approved and designed for motorcycles and wet clutches and that they meet the JASO MA and MA2 requirements.

The Yamaha manual also states that Diesel oils with the C5 rating cannot be used...to not use any oil which is finer than stated. This oil fits and does not exceed those requirements as well.

 

[ELM]

Same thing happened to me on a rebel 250. I drilled it out and was going to try the coil but ended up going side ways. I ended up welding a stud there permanently I ended up selling it 2 years later and the stud was still strong


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[dropkicknick]

Same thing happened to me on a rebel 250. I drilled it out and was going to try the coil but ended up going side ways. I ended up welding a stud there permanently I ended up selling it 2 years later and the stud was still strong

ended up with helicoil. my neighbor just happen to right size kit.

when i drilled, i put in the new studs around it so i could have a angle reference.

just finished putting it back together. runs amazing now

 

[Critter]

Good to know it is running again

 

[DoBro]

Something I have done to get studs like that out (although you no longer have this option since you cut it!) is to double nut it making sure to have the top nut at the top of the stud and put a 6 point box end wrench on the lower nut, then take a hammer and tap on the top nut while turning the wrench. If you get a little movement, spray some Blaster on it and keep turning back and forth working the Blaster into the treads. Used this method on diesel engine head bolts that gave me that issue. Most times it worked. Something to keep in mind if you ever have this issue again.

 

[DE Nichols]

Something I have done to get studs like that out (although you no longer have this option since you cut it!) is to double nut it making sure to have the top nut at the top of the stud and put a 6 point box end wrench on the lower nut, then take a hammer and tap on the top nut while turning the wrench. If you get a little movement, spray some Blaster on it and keep turning back and forth working the Blaster into the treads. Used this method on diesel engine head bolts that gave me that issue. Most times it worked. Something to keep in mind if you ever have this issue again.

I haven't tried it myself, but a much newer and upcoming YouTube channel than mine (grew like mad unlike mine) called Project Farm has reviewed a lot of products for loosing rusty bolts.

Liquid Wrench most definitely beat out PB Blaster. I find PB Blaster helpful on a regular basis. It's what the boss feels like buying.

But more important than the product you use, that technique is certainly excellent. I usually manage it without the hammer hitting at the same time, but when you need it, do it.