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Discussion Starter #1
I replaced my brake pads and one of the calipers was giving me trouble with the pistons going back in so I replaced the brake line with a spare that I had laying around. now there is no brake fluid going to the bleeder valve or nothing on that side. hey at least I have the other one working, right? maybe the proportioning valve how do I reset that?
 

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I'm not sure why you replaced the brake fluid line. Including what kind of bike you have in the post might get you some quicker help.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
from what I understand when brake lines get stretched or pulled the brake line gets pinched acting as a one way passage for brake fluid. that's is what I was thinking since the caliper was giving me negative feedback when I tried to stop- like it was sticking :frown: . and the c-clamp wasn't doing much. that is why I replaced it. so now the original line is back on there and I guess I will just order a new one.
the bike is a 1983 Honda v45- sorry I forgot to include that in the original post.
 

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While I'm not familiar with this particular bike, I usually loosen the holding screws / bolts on the caliper enough so the caliper will be loose, then slip a thin flat screwdriver in between the pad and the rotor and pry on it enough to force the pads back into the caliper before removal. I don't use a C-clamp on my motorcycle brakes. Did you remove the fill cap on your fluid resevoir when you tried to force the pistons in with a C-clamp so the pressure would vent ?And, remove some of the fluid so it doesn't overfill and spill onto your paint or plastic ? Also, those pistons don't move as far back into caliper as a car might, are you sure they aren't already recessed enough ? Maybe somebody else will chime in here pretty soon, I know you're needing some help.
 

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I have a 84 V65 think systems are the same the crossover tube I think is just that no valve in it, I'm thinking its just a tee, to give same pressure to both cals once properly bleed! For whatever reason my cal or lines become void of fluid I use a pump to replace fluid from gear side first then the other. It seems these bike are sometimes resistance to bleeding, so I incorporate a slap(machine gun) style on the break lever once pumped up don't forget to crack the banjo bolt it will burp the final air from the system! My banjo has a speed valve on it to save time! Of course you know any contact of BF does crazy thins to paint!!! Put bike on center stand so master cyl is level cover work area to protect paint plastic liner remove MC top take a Turkey baster remove 90% of fluid from MC slowly pump fluid from cal up to master cyl be careful not to overflow it! Good Bleeding!
 

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Typically Nissin calipers allow you to compress the slave cylinder all the way to the face of the caliper. Yes, you should open the cap and anticipate the level will rise.

What was the brake doing when you were riding the bike? You said it gave negative feedback like the piston was sticking, but I dont know what you mean by that.

If the left or right side caliper was stuck you would not feel much different in the lever, but you would notice that it is dragging by the sound maybe and definitely more heat on the sticking side. This could be a really bad problem if not addressed.
 

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OK so if you are trying to compress a piston and it is not moving, a way to determine where the blockage is would be to loosen the bleeder valve and try again. If the piston compresses at this point then something between the caliper and master is the issue, the caliper is prolly fine. If the piston still doesn't move, then the caliper is the issue. When using a C-Clamp you can get the piston to jam in the bore. I use the old pad as a base to push off when compressing the piston, there is less chance of it jamming that way, also if there is more than one piston this will push them both (or all) in at the same time.

When bleeding I have also noticed that sometimes an air bubble trying to go up will prevent the fluid from going down. Using a vacuum bleeder will solve this issue. They are cheap and available at most auto part stores ($45 here locally to me). Just make sure to keep an eye out for the fluid level in the master. Hope this helps.
 

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Why not pressure the piston out of the caliper, and check for crust and rust and other baddies.
If there are twin discs, where is the proportioning valve? Do the back and front brakes work together ?
85 D has not been heard from in a while, and does not list his whereabouts even close. Apparently the licencing bureau and aliens, and the fuzz are after him in the top left state. Not Alaska. UK
 

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Last I remember 85D was in the PNW somewhern
 

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Gotta love missing the year part of the date... I seen the July part not the 2015 part!
 
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