Slight slack in bearing = Bad Bearing. It should be replaced before it causes real problems.
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Sprocket bearing slack
Anyone knows here, whether it is okay to have a slight slack in bearing of sprocket (wheel side)? Or is it need to be fixed?
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I think you understood my question correctly.. it is not wheel bearings but it's a hub bearing of sprocketSlight slack in bearing = Bad Bearing. It should be replaced before it causes real problems.
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Do we assume you are asking about the Pulsar? Are you certain that there is a bearing there? Most sprockets mount to the wheel through rubber bushings that are pressed into the hub. The rubber takes up any shock from the chain pulling on the sprocket. As the rubber hardens and shrinks with age, it can allow excess motion in the sprocket, making it appear to wobble relative to the wheel. While possible, I've yet to see a sprocket with its own bearing.
Yes.. it's Pulsar & I think it's bearing & not the bushesDo we assume you are asking about the Pulsar? Are you certain that there is a bearing there? Most sprockets mount to the wheel through rubber bushings that are pressed into the hub. The rubber takes up any shock from the chain pulling on the sprocket. As the rubber hardens and shrinks with age, it can allow excess motion in the sprocket, making it appear to wobble relative to the wheel. While possible, I've yet to see a sprocket with its own bearing.
As I said, I've never seen a bike with a separate bearing for the sprocket; the bearing would be between the wheel hub and axle, one on each side. If it's the bearing, the wheel will wobble when the rim is pulled side-to-side. If you have a link to a part diagram, we can sort this out better.
Note that the sprocket has four bolt holes, for the bolts that fit into the hub bushings: https://www.bajajauto.com/customer-service/spares
This site seems to have your bike's rear wheel and axle: Bajaj Genuine Spare Parts online for Dominar, Pulsar, Avenger, 200NS, AS200, V15, V12
Note that the sprocket has four bolt holes, for the bolts that fit into the hub bushings: https://www.bajajauto.com/customer-service/spares
This site seems to have your bike's rear wheel and axle: Bajaj Genuine Spare Parts online for Dominar, Pulsar, Avenger, 200NS, AS200, V15, V12
Yes... Thank you so much sirAs I said, I've never seen a bike with a separate bearing for the sprocket; the bearing would be between the wheel hub and axle, one on each side. If it's the bearing, the wheel will wobble when the rim is pulled side-to-side. If you have a link to a part diagram, we can sort this out better.
Note that the sprocket has four bolt holes, for the bolts that fit into the hub bushings: https://www.bajajauto.com/customer-service/spares
This site seems to have your bike's rear wheel and axle: Bajaj Genuine Spare Parts online for Dominar, Pulsar, Avenger, 200NS, AS200, V15, V12
The coupling, (the part that your sprocket mounts to), has a bearing in it. To find out if it is worn you can grab the sprocket front and rear to see if there is any sideways movement. If you can wiggle the sprocket and coupling - then the bearing is worn and needs replacing.
Thank you so much @Doktor you are the real doctor to answer my questionThe coupling, (the part that your sprocket mounts to), has a bearing in it. To find out if it is worn you can grab the sprocket front and rear to see if there is any sideways movement. If you can wiggle the sprocket and coupling - then the bearing is worn and needs replacing.
Note that the part labeled coupling fits, via the coupling rubber, into the wheel hub. The sprocket fits onto the studs in the coupling. The wheel hub rides on the wheel bearings. The bearing in the coupling itself makes it part of the wheel/axle system. Because the rubber is between the coupling and the hub, there may be some motion of the sprocket relative to the wheel, possibly because the rubber is loose.
As I said, I've never seen a bike with a separate bearing for the sprocket; the bearing would be between the wheel hub and axle, one on each side. If it's the bearing, the wheel will wobble when the rim is pulled side-to-side. If you have a link to a part diagram, we can sort this out better.
Yes, the sprocket-carrier has its own bearing. This bearing's function is to centre the carrier & sprocket relative to wheel. Modern bikes like CBRs actually have two bearings in the sprocket-carrier.The coupling, (the part that your sprocket mounts to), has a bearing in it. To find out if it is worn you can grab the sprocket front and rear to see if there is any sideways movement. If you can wiggle the sprocket and coupling - then the bearing is worn and needs replacing.
The Pulsar uses 3 bearings on rear, 2 in wheel itself and one in sprocket-carrier:
There should be no axial (sideways) or radial slack (up & down) in sprocket carrier. If there is, bearing part# 96130 needs replacement. Here's an example of worn-out sprocket-carrier bearing.Anyone knows here, whether it is okay to have a slight slack in bearing of sprocket (wheel side)? Or is it need to be fixed?
If slack is only in rotation of sprocket relative to wheel, then cush rubbers #41241 are worn and should be replaced. No lateral or up/down wobble, bearing OK, just rotation play.
Thank you so much bro for your time... It helped me a lot .. and also, there's no play like you showed in both your videosThere should be no axial (sideways) or radial slack (up & down) in sprocket carrier. If there is, bearing part# 96130 needs replacement. Here's an example of worn-out sprocket-carrier bearing.
If slack is only in rotation of sprocket relative to wheel, then cush rubbers #41241 are worn and should be replaced. No lateral or up/down wobble, bearing OK, just rotation play.
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Yeah, thanks. After working on motorcycles for 50 years you taught me something that I didn't know.Yes, the sprocket-carrier has its own bearing. This bearing's function is to centre the carrier & sprocket relative to wheel. Modern bikes like CBRs actually have two bearings in the sprocket-carrier.
The Pulsar uses 3 bearings on rear, 2 in wheel itself and one in sprocket-carrier:
You're welcome guys!
Here's an extreme case. Someone forgot to re-install cush drive rubbers when putting wheel back together. Note that it's the bearing in sprocket carrier that allows rotation relative to wheel in order for cush-drive rubbers to work.
Here's an extreme case. Someone forgot to re-install cush drive rubbers when putting wheel back together. Note that it's the bearing in sprocket carrier that allows rotation relative to wheel in order for cush-drive rubbers to work.
@DannoXYZ: I guess I've never needed to work on the bikes you show. From the parts drawings I found, it is unclear that there is a third bearing , supporting only the coupler. Certainly reduces the absorption of the shock to the sprocket that is not rotationally applied, like the force that works to lift the rear axle.
@Dheerajwwe90: So, no play as shown in either video? How would describe yours, in comparison to those?
@Dheerajwwe90: So, no play as shown in either video? How would describe yours, in comparison to those?
Yes, where is this slack in sprocket-carrier bearing? How are testing and finding it? Any video?
Note in diagram there are two spacers between bearings: 42620 and 42313. On some bikes, there's even spacers between sprocket-carrier's bearings, or between those bearings and wheel. These spacers lock bearing's inner-races into fixed-position on axle to prevent side-loading on bearings. If these spacers are missing or of incorrect dimensions, bearings will be pressed laterally and have extreme wear and fail quickly. Wheel most likely won't even be able to turn when axle-nut is tightened to spec.
Note in diagram there are two spacers between bearings: 42620 and 42313. On some bikes, there's even spacers between sprocket-carrier's bearings, or between those bearings and wheel. These spacers lock bearing's inner-races into fixed-position on axle to prevent side-loading on bearings. If these spacers are missing or of incorrect dimensions, bearings will be pressed laterally and have extreme wear and fail quickly. Wheel most likely won't even be able to turn when axle-nut is tightened to spec.
I describe mine as a slight play in relation to the rotation of the wheel, that is not any side to side or up to down play but a play that can be described as what you see in a wobbling wheel.@DannoXYZ: I guess I've never needed to work on the bikes you show. From the parts drawings I found, it is unclear that there is a third bearing , supporting only the coupler. Certainly reduces the absorption of the shock to the sprocket that is not rotationally applied, like the force that works to lift the rear axle.
@Dheerajwwe90: So, no play as shown in either video? How would describe yours, in comparison to those?
That sounds like the sprocket is not fully flat against the coupler, like something is between the sprocket and one of the four cast bosses, like one washer on a stud. Make sure the nuts that hold the sprocket to the coupler are tight on the studs.
Ok, if you have no lateral or up/down play, then sprocket-carrier bearing is Ok. Like #2 & 3 video I show above, there is play in rotation direction. This means the cush-drive rubbers have shrunk with age and opened up gaps. This causes clunking noises when letting off & on throttle with jerking. Some bikes come with brand-new cush-rubbers that's too small and has this gap from beginning. Solution is to shim cush-rubbers to remove gap.I describe mine as a slight play in relation to the rotation of the wheel, that is not any side to side or up to down play but a play that can be described as what you see in a wobbling wheel.
Some people have had issues with these spacers squeezing out. I prefer to place shims just on back side of cush-rubber sections so they are not squeezed under power. Only under off-throttle engine-braking.
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