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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I posted this on a dedicated F4i forum but it is a ghost town there so I figure I'd try my luck here!

I "trimmed" my stock rear fender which meant removing the stock plate light. I used the same wiring to hook up LED's that use the same voltage and it works with no issue. Something I did not notice until I was doing this is that the front indicator lights remain on at all times, while the rears only light up when I "indicate" a turn. Anyone with F4i or CBR experience have an idea if this is normal, i.e. stock? Doesn't seem particularly safe to not have them lit up, and I would think you'd want more lights in back, but I never paid attention prior to know whether this is how they came from the factory or if I created a problem...

Secondly, I'm in the process of putting on a new front tire and haven't done this with a dual rotor wheel before. Should I remove one of the rotors or will it be okay if I lay it on a flat, padded surface?

Thanks for any advice or thoughts!
 

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They come factory with running lights only on the front. This is normal with most bikes new and old. The fronts will have three wire and the rears two.

As far as changing the front tire you wont hurt the rotors unless your jumping up and down on them. How do you intend on removing the front wheel? Do you have front and rear pit stands? I suggest that you loosen up the axle pinch bolts, axle bolt and the brake caliper bolts before putting the bike up on the stands. Less chance of knocking it off the stands trying to get them loose. Some people over tighten them. Do you have spoons or will you be trying the zip tie method when changing the tire? Don't forget to make sure the rotation is correct.
 

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Zip ties FTW! And also the rest of what he said +1


They come factory with running lights only on the front. This is normal with most bikes new and old. The fronts will have three wire and the rears two.

As far as changing the front tire you wont hurt the rotors unless your jumping up and down on them. How do you intend on removing the front wheel? Do you have front and rear pit stands? I suggest that you loosen up the axle pinch bolts, axle bolt and the brake caliper bolts before putting the bike up on the stands. Less chance of knocking it off the stands trying to get them loose. Some people over tighten them. Do you have spoons or will you be trying the zip tie method when changing the tire? Don't forget to make sure the rotation is correct.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
They come factory with running lights only on the front. This is normal with most bikes new and old. The fronts will have three wire and the rears two.

As far as changing the front tire you wont hurt the rotors unless your jumping up and down on them. How do you intend on removing the front wheel? Do you have front and rear pit stands? I suggest that you loosen up the axle pinch bolts, axle bolt and the brake caliper bolts before putting the bike up on the stands. Less chance of knocking it off the stands trying to get them loose. Some people over tighten them. Do you have spoons or will you be trying the zip tie method when changing the tire? Don't forget to make sure the rotation is correct.
Thanks for the reply! I was really worried I had messed up something electrical and, while I like messing with mechanical stuff, I truly have a fear of the electrical side of things.

As for the tire... I got the back one done... twice. Why? Because Dunlop's symbol is a "D" inside an arrow and, when I put the rear on the first time, I just glanced at it, saw that symbol and thought it was all good. There may have been a little spoon slamming, curse-laden tirade when I realized that I had completely missed the LARGE directional arrows going the "wrong" way on the other side of the tire! :smile_big:

Thanks for the help and, yeah, spoons it is!
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Zip ties FTW! And also the rest of what he said +1
Thanks! As hot as it's been, the spoons seem to do quite well. I'm putting on some Dunlop Q3+'s and they stretch pretty easily when warm...
 
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I tried zip ties for the first time ever earlier in the spring I was sold. Took seconds to get it on the wheel with zero concern of marring the wheel... still keep my spoons close by and my tire changer too (non-no-mar).
 

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Can someone explain the zip ties method for a dummy who is too lazy to google it?
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Same for me. ^ What he said.
Can someone explain the zip ties method for a dummy who is too lazy to google it?
Once you break the bead, you slide 8-10 heavy duty zip ties around the tire, strap 'em up tight and the tire pulls off with a little push'n pull. Putting on the new tire is just the reverse...

Here is a vid, skip to the 5:00 mark for the main process (though I notice he still needs the spoons for help...)
 

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Cheesy as that video is it is exactly as it does and goes. I bought giant zip ties to just keep around and on a whim decided to do this on my lil cbr250 and was in awe. I spritzed the windex not near as much and let it dry before actually airing up the tire though. I started to try it on Wingers tubed set up and had a whole lotta nope. Spoons is the only way to go on tube type. Tubeless is awesome fast with zip ties, No marring of wheels even better.
 

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Learning something new everyday is great.
 

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If dealing with sportbike tires that only last around 3k like the q3 , why not just spend the $40 on a dedicated tire machine and use the right tool for the job (if you're going to be changing them yourself all the time)
 

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I have a tire machine, and spoons, and reaaaaaly liked the zip tie method.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
If dealing with sportbike tires that only last around 3k like the q3 , why not just spend the $40 on a dedicated tire machine and use the right tool for the job (if you're going to be changing them yourself all the time)
I've considered it but my hobbies take up about as much space as I have in my garage. Adding more equipment isn't an option if I want to be able to work on the cars and bike and actually be able to move around...
 
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