I was wondering if I should put seafoam mixed with the gasoline in the tank or is it best to do it from the gas line ?
Ceeber911
SeaFoam isn't a miracle in a can, but it does well at what it is designed to do: stabilize gasoline for up to 24 months; absorb small amounts of water in the gasoline; dissolve minor varnish deposits.
With regards to adding it to the crank case oil: it will dissolve carbon deposits, along with varnish deposits, usually within a few minutes of circulation in the engine (will turn the oil black, if these deposits exist, see next paragraph). It is made of 100% petroleum products, nothing else -- basically White Oil.
Adding it to the crankcase is only necessary once, on older engines, which used SAE oil types prior to "L". I added it to the engine of my '79 Honda 750, in 2007, with 10k miles on the engine; ran it for five minutes, idling, shifting through all gears on the center stand, to percolate it through the transmission (shared oil with the engine, so wanted a thorough cleaning). That bike started life with SAE Type F/G oils -- pure ****, by today's standards. The oil went from light caramel brown, to black. I changed it, and the filter.
After another 6,000 miles, I added SeaFoam again, thinking there would be new sludge in the system: the oil never darkened, even after 300 miles of riding. I changed oil and filter, just to be safe. This demonstrated how good modern oils are, compared to the F/G **** of 1980: these oils broke down into carbon sludge above temperatures of 250 F... My Honda's air-cooled engine ran at 250 F, as its normal operating temperature. Modern conventional oils break down at much higher temperatures, so no more sludge in the engine after it was cleaned.
I sold the bike with 22k miles on it, without issues, in 2011. I use SeaFoam in all of my engines, mostly in the fuel, once in the engine, to remove any deposits. Put on many thousands of miles, afterwards, without issue.
I use it every Autumn to mothball my bike(s). Come Spring, once they get gas into the carbs, they fire up perfectly. I use it in the gas, probably once per month for the bike, just to get rid of any water, as well as minor varnish deposits, if any. Have not had a carb issue since I started this practice, back in 2010 for the current (carbureted) bike... Cheers!
With regards to adding it to the crank case oil: it will dissolve carbon deposits, along with varnish deposits, usually within a few minutes of circulation in the engine (will turn the oil black, if these deposits exist, see next paragraph). It is made of 100% petroleum products, nothing else -- basically White Oil.
Adding it to the crankcase is only necessary once, on older engines, which used SAE oil types prior to "L". I added it to the engine of my '79 Honda 750, in 2007, with 10k miles on the engine; ran it for five minutes, idling, shifting through all gears on the center stand, to percolate it through the transmission (shared oil with the engine, so wanted a thorough cleaning). That bike started life with SAE Type F/G oils -- pure ****, by today's standards. The oil went from light caramel brown, to black. I changed it, and the filter.
After another 6,000 miles, I added SeaFoam again, thinking there would be new sludge in the system: the oil never darkened, even after 300 miles of riding. I changed oil and filter, just to be safe. This demonstrated how good modern oils are, compared to the F/G **** of 1980: these oils broke down into carbon sludge above temperatures of 250 F... My Honda's air-cooled engine ran at 250 F, as its normal operating temperature. Modern conventional oils break down at much higher temperatures, so no more sludge in the engine after it was cleaned.
I sold the bike with 22k miles on it, without issues, in 2011. I use SeaFoam in all of my engines, mostly in the fuel, once in the engine, to remove any deposits. Put on many thousands of miles, afterwards, without issue.
I use it every Autumn to mothball my bike(s). Come Spring, once they get gas into the carbs, they fire up perfectly. I use it in the gas, probably once per month for the bike, just to get rid of any water, as well as minor varnish deposits, if any. Have not had a carb issue since I started this practice, back in 2010 for the current (carbureted) bike... Cheers!
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