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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 16 year old bike (TVS Victor GL) in which I did an oil change from mineral oil to semi-synthetic oil with surfactants (Shell Advance AX7 550031394 10W-40 API SM Synthetic Technology Motorbike Engine Oil). The problem with this, I assume, is that it cleaned away all the necessary carbon from the engine. Two days after changing the engine oil, I decided to change the clutch and pressure plates. I know this is a very stupid decision and I must have done this before changing the oil. When I drained the oil to change the clutch plates, it came out to be dark and gritty.

And now for the question. Can I use the same oil because it is just two days old, or should I go for new engine oil?
 

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Sounds like it really needed a good flush. I would change it too..
 
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Welcome to the forum!:wink2:

Please list where you live and what kind of bike you are talking about:smile_big:

I know from the oil you use and the description of your bike that you don't live in the United States but we can probably help you more with better info.:grin:

I am posting a link below:

https://www.bikesmedia.in/tvs/victor-gl.html

I would change the oil as soon as possible and just a heads up, old engines don't particularly like synthetics:surprise:

Sam:nerd:
 

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I would change the oil as soon as possible and just a heads up, old engines don't particularly like synthetics:surprise:

Sam:nerd:
I don't know where you heard that, but my '70 CB450 prefers synthetics, as does my '98 Valkyrie.:surprise:
 

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I think that's a rumor that started due to oil leaks which popped up on older engines after switching to synthetic. Synthetic oils allegedly have a better cleaning ability, so old dirt and grit which had previously sealed the seams and gasket areas around the crankcase was removed and the old nasty gaskets began to leak.

It's probably a bunch of bunk though... personally I would rather maintain my engine and use a synthetic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi Porky :)

Thank you for the warm welcome. I live in Chennai (formerly called Madras) which is a coastal city in South India. It was created by the British to enable trade in 1700s. It has the second longest beach in the world (Marina beach) and I think the first longest is in your country (Miami beach?). Tropical weather along with salty coastal winds causes rusting in motorbikes. However, we do enjoy the cold sea breeze and it is a good enough trade off!

I have TVS Victor GL (the same link) and a Honda Dio Moped. There is one other bike I own which has been gathering dust for the past ten years. But it is a legend where I live and so I do not want to give up on it. I am talking about the Yamaha RX 100. In the near future, when I try and restore it to its old glory, I may document it here and ask a lot of questions. The engine compression is fine (thumb test) and I pray that the gear box is intact.

I just discovered that old engines do not like synthetics. But now it is too late now :( I think all the good carbon is gone. I just brought Shell 20W40 mineral oil to add in.

Best,
Adrian :)
 

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Dino oil has additives in it that tend to 'swell' 'O' rings and gaskets which helps oil to not 'seep' and cause problems.:wink2:

Synthetic is thin and contains none of the properties that swell O rings and gaskets and SOMETIMES causes seepage and leaks almost immediately:surprise:

In many discussions with top BMW motorcycle mechanics, (I've owned 5 of them) this issue has proven itself time after time:plain:

***** Myself and the BMW mechanics have also proven that a return to Dino/ Petroleum oil can stop the seepage because it will swell the affected parts again.:wink2:

I run synthetics in every bike I own because I like to pamper them:smile_big:

I have run Shell Rotella T diesel oil in most all of my bikes and farm stuff--they loved it:smile:

Oil discussions are funny. I know of no one that has ever ruined a motorcycle engine caused by their selection of weight or type of oil used. There is some consternation about slipping wet clutches when using 'energy saving/ friction modified oil:grin:

Sam:nerd:
 

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My wallet dislikes synthetics.. sometimes I give in and buy the bike what they want though..
 
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No modern day oil company is going to sell a product that destroys motors, their seals and o-rings. especially their expensive synthetic oils, the liability is too great. A reputable oil company's most expensive oil being used for its intended application, causing serious trouble? No way, that's ridiculous. Being blamed for it? All too common.

Seals harden, wear and leak over time, it's what they do, Usually when run on cheap oil at high temperatures. I've run synthetic oil in every engine I've ever owned, some engines from the 40's, never a problem. Probably unlike many I do not run the light weight watery like oil that some use.
 

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I think that's a rumor that started due to oil leaks which popped up on older engines after switching to synthetic. Synthetic oils allegedly have a better cleaning ability, so old dirt and grit which had previously sealed the seams and gasket areas around the crankcase was removed and the old nasty gaskets began to leak.

It's probably a bunch of bunk though... personally I would rather maintain my engine and use a synthetic.
I haven't heard that, although it would make a lot of sense. What I have heard is never to put synthetic oil into a bike with a known oil leak because the synthetic oil is slipperier than an icy sidewalk in January, and said oil leak will gush like no one's business.


Additionally, when I had my 2004 SV650, when I changed the oil I put expensive synthetic oil in it and within a couple weeks I had problems, mainly with the shifting. I did some research and found that it did not do well with synthetic, and there was one specific dino oil that would run that engine well. I changed the oil again and the difference was night and day.
 

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Additionally, when I had my 2004 SV650, when I changed the oil I put expensive synthetic oil in it and within a couple weeks I had problems, mainly with the shifting. I did some research and found that it did not do well with synthetic, and there was one specific dino oil that would run that engine well. I changed the oil again and the difference was night and day.
That's different. Usually synthetics are the slicker sifters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I assume that the pistons does not fit well with the bore in old engines. The presence of carbon may solve this problem by creating a tight fit. Any of you think the synthetic oil will wash all this carbon away creating a gap between the bore and the piston, thereby running less efficiently?
 

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Dod's correct. It's normally the top of the piston, the cyl head (s) combustion chamber and the 'ring lands,' that can foul up.*****

****** Some Mesican assembly line workers building Ford, 4 cylinder engines, about 30 years ago, were for some reason aligning all of the piston 'ring gaps' in a straight line:surprise:

This caused massive carbon leakage, smoke, huge loss of compression and Cylinder 'wash down,' from unburned fuel that quickly ended up in the oil! No bueno Hombre:surprise:

Sam:nerd:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I allowed the least possible play in the clutch lever. But when I pull the lever fully, the clutch is only half engaged. There is no settings near the lever, I have to adjust the nuts near the clutch box. I know the setting varies from bike to bike, but am in a situation where I need a shorter wire?
 

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If no parts are missing and everything is put together correctly, then possibly some of the steel plates are warped.
But I don't even know what a TVS Victor GL is .... So there is that.
 
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