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Discussion Starter #1
I'm putting a new chain on my '81 honda cm400c, and it's an x-ring style with a hollow-tip riveted master link. I've only put on clip type master links, so forgive any stupid questions.

The tool I'm using is a Motion pro PBR chain tool that does pulling, pressing, and riveting.

I cut the chain down to the correct size, got it on my motorcycle, and put the master link on. I used the tool on "press", but it looks like the hollow point cylinders are not popping out enough (compared to how much they come out in videos, pictures I've seen.) Now, I'm not the strongest man in the world, but I'm by no means weak either. I torqued this thing hard enough that the screw in handle on the tool bent in my hands when I was using a ratchet to tighten the tool. Still, the ends did not seem to come out enough. I tried for like 2 hours. The links seem flush with the others, like they can't move anymore but there's no way its out enough. I finally thought, maybe I'm being paranoid, and tried the "rivet" portion of the tool, and the ends mushroomed a bit, but it looks like it BARELY goes over the top. I worry that my chain is going to break apart while riding.

Anyone have any idea on what I may be doing wrong? If I can't get this to work, could I buy a clip type master link and put that on an x-ring style chain, or will that not work properly? Any help is appreciated, and I'll answer any questions that people have to help me better. Thanks in advance.
 

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Commute Racer
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Welcome to the wonderful world of riveted master links.

I've ruined 3 tools putting those damn things on, and have switched to clip types for my latest effort.

You mention that the master link looks flush. I use a micrometer when I am putting the cap on the link, and measure it against the width of the other links so I make sure it matches.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
lol. Yeah, this is insanity. I got so mad I almost pushed over my bike. I so badly want to go back to a clip so god damn bad. Everyone online makes it look so easy with a couple twists on a hand tool with bare hands. I'm dying to know what I'm doing wrong.
 

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I was taught to put those on before they go on the machine, and I was told never to use any special made tool to do the job. i was told to measure the chain, find the links, bust the chain, put the new master on it, then use a hammer and punch to rivet the single pin that holds the master in place. they also said most guys are changing to the slip on keyed type master links cause learning how to do a good job takes time. I did 4 I remember, 6 I think, and the first three I felt real bad about. its about hammering the punch in the right place to get an equal swell from here...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So, I put it in a vice, no go. I used to clamps, no go. No matter what I did the hollow tip cylinders would not come out enough to be riveted. What I finally ended up doing....... buying a clip style master link from Bikemaster and just put that on instead. Took 5 minutes. This is my smaller bike and doesn't produce enough torque to put it out of range of a clip.... thanks all.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm trying to find the document that showed the max torque range of the clip, and having a hard time finding it. I had talked with the guy at the shop and he told me and we both agreed that a 400cc was going to produce nowhere near that, but for the life of me I cannot remember the number he quoted to from the catalog. I'm going to try and ask the guy and I'll update here if I find out.

You can see from the bikemaster 530MX website that the x-ring chain with it's original rivet link had an average tensile strength of 9400 lbs, but that really doesn't give us the max torque of the master link replacement.
 
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