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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi there guys. Noob rider here. Bought a v star 650 classic 06' about 6 months ago. If you guys have ever heard one of these thing's exhaust you know that it's rather disappointing as far as a powerful sounding bike.

So I installed Vance & Hines Staggered Short shots the other day. A couple days before that I replaced the stock filter with a K & N high flow filter.

It sounded like a beast awakened and was very pleasing. However, she was running real lean, felt hotter than warm shower water on a sunburn. I went today to go rejet her and I start out adjusting the idle. Turns out the air screw was 4 turns out. So I screw that puppy back in, but now she's not balancing out and I'm keeping it between 1 - 2.5 turns on the air screw and adjusting the idle screw to respond with the throttle well. Thing is I'm getting too rich of a mixture, and when I go to balance it and take care of the popping it idles way too damn high. Feels like a double edged sword now and I want to learn how to do this myself.

Is there anyone out there that can possibly shine some light? And information / advice is GREATLY appreciated.

-Cheers!

p.s. I'm tackling the needle in the carb and main jet after I perfect the idle.
The article I took notes on can be seen here. mcpltdinc.com/2011/11/15/jetting/
 

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First mistake backyard mechanics make after changing pipes and air filter is to start goofing with the air/fuel mixture screws and the idle. They do this because although the bike sounds beefy with the new mods, it often suffers a hesitation and /or popping. It suffers these symptoms not because of the screw settings, but rather because of the changes made to exhaust back pressure and air intake.

First step on the road to a deep throaty sounding ride is put those screws back the way they were set from the factory. Then you contact Vance & Hines ( check their website) and find out what rejet kit they recommend for your year bike with the new pipes and air filter. Then you get the jet kit and have them installed by either the dealer or a qualified mechanic. Carb rejets can frustrate professional mechanics, so if your knowledge of rejetting is less than that of a pro, I don't suggest you do it yourself... but if'n you're stubborn (like me), then get the proper rejet kit and take your time. When done right she'll run fine.

But rejetting does NOT require changing the air/fuel mixture or the idle unless specified in the rejet kit... and even then you do it AFTER the rejet is done.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
First mistake backyard mechanics make after changing pipes and air filter is to start goofing with the air/fuel mixture screws and the idle. They do this because although the bike sounds beefy with the new mods, it often suffers a hesitation and /or popping. It suffers these symptoms not because of the screw settings, but rather because of the changes made to exhaust back pressure and air intake.

First step on the road to a deep throaty sounding ride is put those screws back the way they were set from the factory. Then you contact Vance & Hines ( check their website) and find out what rejet kit they recommend for your year bike with the new pipes and air filter. Then you get the jet kit and have them installed by either the dealer or a qualified mechanic. Carb rejets can frustrate professional mechanics, so if your knowledge of rejetting is less than that of a pro, I don't suggest you do it yourself... but if'n you're stubborn (like me), then get the proper rejet kit and take your time. When done right she'll run fine.

But rejetting does NOT require changing the air/fuel mixture or the idle unless specified in the rejet kit... and even then you do it AFTER the rejet is done.
Thanks jack! Really appreciate it, will do!
 
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