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Discussion Starter #1
I've looked around on forums and paint mfrs websites to no avail. I have two questions.

I bought an old 1990 HD 1200XL sportster. Took off the tank and front fender , sanded, and sprayed 3 coats of primer [rustoleum automobile primer] and painted it, again 3 light coats [rustoleum automotive enamel gloss black]. I did not take it down to bare metal, but removed most rust.

It wasn't the best paint job but seems to be acceptable for now compared to what was on it. I wet sanded with 2000grit paper.


#1. Which spray paint clear coat should I use that will not be destroyed by gas?

I know it's best to stay in same mfr family, but rustoleum does not have a product that meets this criteria. wish I had known before I started this process. I am confused. I would love to use a 2k clear coat but have concerns of toxicity because I don't have ppd (masks).

Any suggestions/advice?

#2. I bought a non-OEM rear fender (bare metal), any prep required prior to sanding and primer?

thanks again.

wheels up!
 

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Retired twice: Navy and as a govt contractor
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Sand it as well, Wipe it down with acetone, then a tacky cloth before you prime it. Where in Charm City?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I hope you started with enamel primer? said:
I think so??? The spray can is not specific and neither is the data sheet. How important is it?


i don't have enough posts on this forum to post the data sheet link yet. :frown:
 

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rattle can clear is real thin.
spray very thin coats, and sand with 320 or finer between dry coats. Its going to take days of re-coating so take your time, do a good job.
 

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I've looked around on forums and paint mfrs websites to no avail. I have two questions.

I bought an old 1990 HD 1200XL sportster. Took off the tank and front fender , sanded, and sprayed 3 coats of primer [rustoleum automobile primer] and painted it, again 3 light coats [rustoleum automotive enamel gloss black]. I did not take it down to bare metal, but removed most rust.

It wasn't the best paint job but seems to be acceptable for now compared to what was on it. I wet sanded with 2000grit paper.


#1. Which spray paint clear coat should I use that will not be destroyed by gas?

I know it's best to stay in same mfr family, but rustoleum does not have a product that meets this criteria. wish I had known before I started this process. I am confused. I would love to use a 2k clear coat but have concerns of toxicity because I don't have ppd (masks).

Any suggestions/advice?

#2. I bought a non-OEM rear fender (bare metal), any prep required prior to sanding and primer?

thanks again.

wheels up!
 

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I know this thread is dated, however it may be useful to those wandering around.
Anyone who endeavors to use spray can applications, should look into Polyurethanes. Polyurethanes are highly impervious to many solvents, including Gasoline. I have used MinWax oil based exterior polyethylene on several bike projects. I extensively experimented using mostly vintage Honda's.
In my final testing I layed three stacked ,gasoline soaked shop towels, on a fully cured fuel tanks. Three days of direct contact with zero negative effects, left me thoroughly convinced me.
 
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