Normally on these 70s two strokes there is a very small screw on the bottom of the oil pump. Take the screw out (with 2-stroke oil in the tank) and let the oil gravity-feed itself down into the pump until oil runs out of the hole where the screw was. Put the screw back in. Now the PUMP is primed, but the lines still are not.
So, you notice when you twist the throttle, the lever on the oil pump moves? Good. Now hold that lever on 'full throttle position' with your finger, a screwdriver, anything that will hold it there while you either kick over the engine, or spin the pump input shaft . . . some pumps have a manual rotating wheel just for this purpose.
As you spin the pump (with the lever in full throttle position) watch the small oil tubes going to the engine. There should be at least 4 lines on the 350. 2 to each cylinder. Watch the oil move through the lines until it fills them completely. Ta da! Your lines are now full.
Start the engine and hold the oil pump lever in the full throttle position . . . NOT the throttle!! And again watch the oil lines. There will almost always be a few stray air bubbles that you can see. You want to make sure those air bubbles are moving toward the engine. If they don't move, the pump is not working. If the 4 small lines continue to get air pockets, then you've got a small leak somewhere.
Hope this helps . . .
Ah . . . written to you from sunny relaxing Bolzano, Italy! :biggrin:
continuing oil line saga....have a full oil line from the tank to the pump...no bubbles...unscrewing the 17mm cap/bolt did the trick there. However, no oil to the two lines exiting the pump when holding the lever in the full open position and kick starting with the spark plugs removed. Took off the lines going to the engine at the pump and little (a gurgle perhaps) to no movement when I use the kick starter. Could the pump be gummed up and just using the kicker is insufficient to move any oil through? What if I heat the oil? Will that allow it to flow? I guess I am trying to be sure I've exhausted all options before taking off the pump. Anyway, as always, help needed and appreciated.
I generally put in a light (40:1) pre-mix into the fuel tank. Only about a quart of fuel. Then start the engine, and run it just above idle approx 2k rpms while manually holding the pump cable to the wide open position. If the pump is good you should see movement in less than a minute. In the meantime you are protecting the cylinders at that rpm. Although a Suzuki needs injection for the left main crank bearing, so don't rev it too much or for too long, before removing, repairing or replacing pump. Once you have it pumping you can then fill your fuel tank with straight fuel and not worry about over oiling and fouling due to the small amount of fuel you pre treated at 40:1. Good luck.