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I got a 2004 katana 600 about a month ago to fix up for my first bike. Ive spent about a couple weeks pouring over katriders.com trying to find answers to my troubles and I believe my engine is either seized or hydrolocked from what I've read others having similar problems.

So I dont know much about the bikes history other than the guy I bought it from got it from his friend to replace plugs, starter solenoid, levers and blah blah blah I cant remember what else. Well he ran it around a couple hours and when he got back it wouldnt start up again and he didnt have the time to mess with it.
Well i got a new battery, the lights and signals work, I hit the starter button and it just clicks once, then nothing. Ive tested the connections with a volt reader and the only place I'm not getting proper volts is the starter, solenoid is perfect. I'm not sure about the wiring though.... Anyways During this time ive also drained a nasty brown color fluid from the crank case(someone on KR said they had the same thing because of float issues dumping stupid amounts of fuel and the motor just wouldnt start), so I'm currently flushing the system by spraying parts cleaner down through the spark plug holes to flush it down and out. There was a ton of gas in the intake for piston #2 and a bit in #1 so I'm guessing it's hydrolocked. The wheel won't spin more than an inch or so and I can't shift gears even holding the clutch unless I rock it back and forth as I push it around.

I'm wanting to remove the cylinder head and this is where I'm stuck... Because the camshaft need to be positioned properly to remove them and I can't get it to move either with a wrench physically turning it or by getting into 6th and rolling it. If it is the piston holding the pressure how can I possibly release the pressure to get the cylinder head off? Theoretically Would loosening the valve springs for the piston Possibly allow me to release that pressure to get it to move?
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Did you try turning it over with all the plugs removed? I assume by your pictures you did but just wanted to clear that up
 

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Well if the plugs are out, doesn't matter that there is liquid in the cylinders it isn't hydrolocked. The fluid would push out the plug holes. It is seized in my opinion.
 

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Well if the plugs are out, doesn't matter that there is liquid in the cylinders it isn't hydrolocked. The fluid would push out the plug holes. It is seized in my opinion.
So since I can't get it to turn to take the camshaft off to get down to the cylinder head whats the next move you'd suggest?
 

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Is it really necessary to have the camshafts in a certain orientation to take them out and take the head off? The motors I've taken apart (only two) I just had to make sure when putting everything back together that I put the crankshaft at top dead center on cylinder one and then lined up the camshaft timing marks. Taking apart was not critical; putting back together was.
 

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All because the float bowls leaked:(
Sam
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Is it really necessary to have the camshafts in a certain orientation to take them out and take the head off? The motors I've taken apart (only two) I just had to make sure when putting everything back together that I put the crankshaft at top dead center on cylinder one and then lined up the camshaft timing marks. Taking apart was not critical; putting back together was.
To be clear this is the most mechanical thing ive ever messed with, I mean my past project was a mini bike so this is all brand new. I dont know if I could... I'll have to do some digging. But it was sitting for quite some time, dont know how long to be exact but whoever had it hadn't treated it well internally. I'm looking for any suggestions here because I'm stuck.
 

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Probably not seized but something (like piston to cylinder wall) rusted in place, both things about the same difference though.
Fuel sitting in the cylinder and running down past the pistons will rust parts.

You can remove the cover (right side I believe) for the rotor/ignition pick-up and use a tool on the nut on the end of the crankshaft to try to turn over the engine. If it won't budge you know it is locked up due to rust, seized or whatever.

S F
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Probably not seized but something (like piston to cylinder wall) rusted in place, both things about the same difference though.
Fuel sitting in the cylinder and running down past the pistons will rust parts.

You can remove the cover (right side I believe) for the rotor/ignition pick-up and use a tool on the nut on the end of the crankshaft to try to turn over the engine. If it won't budge you know it is locked up due to rust, seized or whatever.

S F
This is where I'm stuck because I've tried that and I'm just going to break something where it's so stuck.
 

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Put some oil in the thing and give some time. Transmission fluid mixed with acetone works wonders. Some use Marvel’s Mystery oil. But the real key is give it time. It didn’t lock up overnight and it won’t free up overnight.
 
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This is where I'm stuck because I've tried that and I'm just going to break something where it's so stuck.
Stuck that bad...
Probably major pitting in the cylinder walls. No telling what else you'll find after you get it apart.
Might be better, cheaper and easier just to find an engine from salvage instead of rebuilding what you've got.
The bonus is you'll have a bunch of spare parts from the original motor.

S F
 

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Stuck that bad...
I've got tractors running stuck like that but then, so what if it smoked a little. This isn't a tractor though. It really does depend on how easily it releases. Some new rings and a little honing it might work. But that sounds like a big "might" at the moment.

And without correcting the issue that caused this you're right back here.
 

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I'm going to put that tranny fluid in later and let it sit til the weekend adding more when I can while trying to roll the bike around. If it doesn't crack after a week or so I'll consider other options. I'd really hate to give up on it but all I can do is wait and see how bad it is.

Hogcowboy I'm like 95% sure its the carbs that caused the locking up. I'm assuming the guy didnt put it back together right and it flooded cylinder #2. If it hydrolocked then and he just didnt mess with it could that have caused the seizing from sitting for 2+ years?
 

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could that have caused the seizing from sitting for 2+ years
I believe that was answered earlier but yes. Especially given this worthless fuel we have today. If it didn't already have moisture in it it would draw moisture and not just rapidly evaporate. Might just as well put a cup of water in there instead of fuel. End result would be the same.
 

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I ran home after work and put in about 2 quarts of 90% tranny/ 10% acetone in the spark plug holes and whatever was left in the crankcase. The tranny fluid and acetone has worked enough that I was able to rock it back and forth enough to just barely free the seized piston woop woop! I can now turn the back wheel by hand in 6th so I will be taking it apart properly this weekend. Dumped some more in and hoping to have it rolling a bit easier tomorrow.
 

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Great that is a start
 
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