ya it did it again.My bike will only start if i pull the right back high tension wire and put a spare spark plug into the end and against the frame so it arks and makes contact.Just that one wire does it.If i put it back on the bike it wont start.I`ve tested the wire it is fine and changed the spark plug too.Just dont know where to start.Tks
please help
G
I have a 1983 750 shadow and i am having problems starting it.
It turns over fine but will not start.The weirdest thing is i pulled the back right high tension wire off and its starts,Why would that be?
Thanks a lot,Jeff
It turns over fine but will not start.The weirdest thing is i pulled the back right high tension wire off and its starts,Why would that be?
Thanks a lot,Jeff
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Jeff cyr,
You've got a dead short somewhere. Has any of the wiring been monkeyed with?? Check out all your wiring thoroughly. When checking your wiring, don't stick your points of your testor through the wire insulation. Moisture can get in at that point and really create some hidden damage. Always test from the end of the wire.
CD
You've got a dead short somewhere. Has any of the wiring been monkeyed with?? Check out all your wiring thoroughly. When checking your wiring, don't stick your points of your testor through the wire insulation. Moisture can get in at that point and really create some hidden damage. Always test from the end of the wire.
CD
Jeff, a wire can have "continuity" and not be any good. It can conduct just enough electricity to show a circuit on "ohm" setting. If this is the OEM solid wire, put it in series in a active 12v circuit and test it (from end to end of the wire) for voltage drop with the voltmeter. It should read "0" volts. If the meter shows some voltage, it is resisting flow of electricity and needs replaced.
Rocksolid
Rocksolid
rocksolid God advice
I am a service tech and you are wright wire as it gets older will loose the conductivity it should have to pass voltage or current through it .electrons,move through wire like water through a hose ,as the wire breaks
down it is no longer able to carry the # of electrons,it should this will also
cause
the wire to get hot ,and sometimes burn up ,always replace old or burned wire, if it looks like ti got hot ,it was probably because of a bad contact
or a large amp draw problem . Bob Good luck on your problem,
I am a service tech and you are wright wire as it gets older will loose the conductivity it should have to pass voltage or current through it .electrons,move through wire like water through a hose ,as the wire breaks
down it is no longer able to carry the # of electrons,it should this will also
cause
the wire to get hot ,and sometimes burn up ,always replace old or burned wire, if it looks like ti got hot ,it was probably because of a bad contact
or a large amp draw problem . Bob Good luck on your problem,
G
starting problems
Hi Bob,Tks for your input.I was talking to an electrician friend of mine and he said that it could be my pulse generator also,What do u think?Tks JeffI am a service tech and you are wright wire as it gets older will loose the conductivity it should have to pass voltage or current through it .electrons,move through wire like water through a hose ,as the wire breaks
down it is no longer able to carry the # of electrons,it should this will also
cause
the wire to get hot ,and sometimes burn up ,always replace old or burned wire, if it looks like ti got hot ,it was probably because of a bad contact
or a large amp draw problem . Bob Good luck on your problem,
G
problems staring
Hi Rock,When u mean is series do u mean the the ignition on or change the setting on my meter to read vlotag.Because i did a voltage test and it is not drawing volts,which is a good thing.I just hope its not my pulse generator,Thats a huge job to change.Tks get btm,JeffJeff, a wire can have "continuity" and not be any good. It can conduct just enough electricity to show a circuit on "ohm" setting. If this is the OEM solid wire, put it in series in a active 12v circuit and test it (from end to end of the wire) for voltage drop with the voltmeter. It should read "0" volts. If the meter shows some voltage, it is resisting flow of electricity and needs replaced.
Rocksolid
Jeff, I'm thinking that the reason the bike starts when the plug is pulled out is that the wire has a small intermittent break inside the insulation. You can put the wire in a rigged up circuit and test for voltage drop. If the voltmeter shows voltage, it should be very small. (Say 0.1 v) Your autoparts store may be willing to test it for you.
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The resistance is your plug wire.
There is a inexpensive tester from the autoparts store that you slide along the wire with the engine running. Where it has a break, it stops conducting, and the light goes out. (I got mine from Pep Boys).
Like you said, the wires are very old.
If the pulse were bad, the plug would not work, but it does sometimes.
Good luck.
Rocksolid
The resistance is your plug wire.
There is a inexpensive tester from the autoparts store that you slide along the wire with the engine running. Where it has a break, it stops conducting, and the light goes out. (I got mine from Pep Boys).
Like you said, the wires are very old.
If the pulse were bad, the plug would not work, but it does sometimes.
Good luck.
Rocksolid
Jeff, if you use a ammeter as the diagram shows, be sure it is a ammeter rated for full amps, not milliamps, such as is used in a garage, or it burn up immediatly.
Rocksolid
Rocksolid
Jeff
like I SAID i WOULD BUY WIRES ALREADY TO PUT ON ,DON'T CUT MY OWN !!!!
spark plug wire has a core that is easy to break ,the old kind were different
than today get the ones made for your bike Biker Bob
like I SAID i WOULD BUY WIRES ALREADY TO PUT ON ,DON'T CUT MY OWN !!!!
spark plug wire has a core that is easy to break ,the old kind were different
than today get the ones made for your bike Biker Bob
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
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