Motorcycle Forum banner

1 - 20 of 80 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,162 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well,I pulled the trigger again . I hang around a bike repair shop a bit because Jeff is one of those old school Harley mechanics who will work on my Honda stuff when it is off season and slow in the shop. Jeff uses a guy down the street to do his painting and this guy has a '70 CL175. Jeff said that I might be able to score it cheap for parts

The cL had been stored dry as a true barn bike would be . Of course that means mice had also visited,boring nest sites through the foam all the way to the base plate of the seat and nipping holes through the air filters Adding insult to injury, the tank had some wierd caulk-JB weld stuff going on over an improperly prepared surface. I imagine that the leaky tank is what parked the bike 21 years ago with its 1993 license plate.. He wanted 100.00 and I offered 50.00. He countered at 75, and I asked him if he knew what a tank and seat would cost? I got the bike for 50.00 with condition that it did not VinCheck as stolen.

All I wanted the bike for was a working handlebar complete with switches. I have a lovely CL350 of the same model year with bent handlebars and thought they might swap out. The wiring on this little beastie was as hardened as I have seen,so I hooked up a weak battery jumped to the connections with a five amp inline fuse on the + side. I any of you have magic smoked a bike before, you know why I call this thing the magic smoke preventer. I could not believe it when every thing worked.

The points had been removed and were in a bag. there was only a single buggered head setting screw to set the point gap,so I just eyeballed it.

I replaced the weak battery with a strong one and added a spray of berrymans to the carb opening and it fired and ran!

I do not know just what will be in store for this bike, but at least it would make a nice bike to run errands and such or just for mild off-road stuff. Now I finally have a bike with a paint job that is bad enough to practice my painting skills on. This could be fun. I love barn bike stories for the thrill of the gem in the rough and all that. 28.5 cents per cc for a running bike just adds to the thrill. My apologies if this is too long and boring.
 

·
Female Rider
Joined
·
9,324 Posts
AWWW Slum, what a wonderful find!! That is the bike I really learned on. Dad bought a blue & white one back in 1969. I rode the heck out of it. Almost all of my riding was on gravel/dirt roads.

Please post up some pictures. Would love to see your restoration of this bike!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,162 Posts
Discussion Starter #6






This is Not the CL175, but it is the color of my 350 that I bought the parts for. This bike is original paint and the handlebars are badly bent.

An original survivor!

I bought if for 150.00 but it had no title. [I know,I know--no title but it is not stolen as I checked the VIN with the national insurance crime bureau.]

I will get to taking the before pictures on the 175 just for you,Moni. The bike has some perforation of the tank,a bad clutch cable at least 22 year old tires and paint the color of faded butter or a yellow Post-it note. The bike is very straight and solid otherwise.
I am first going to de-rust the tank to see if more perforation shows up and clean the carbs and see if it will run with carburation instead of squirting fuel into the carb throat
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,162 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Update to the project is that I have decided to try to save the tank and RedKote it. Since the tank has pinholes,I certainly do not want to use any harsh acid on it to remove the rust. Electrolysis is a process that works in tanks without baffles,and I have had great siccess with it in the past. I take the time to remove all the varnish first. Sometimes varnish is mistaken for rust and it makes the electro process work better if you are working on it after you are certain the varnish is gone.

The process can take some time,but it is gentle on the tank metal and leaves a spotless foundation if carefully done. This really is not a project thread,but once things come along,I may post some before and after pictures.. If it were not for the fact that I have a sinking float,I could have it running,I think
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,162 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
This tank was by far the worst rust removal experience to date. The advice given on most internet sites about electrolysis is not correct. You just cannot continue to use the same dirty solution over and over because the rust in the solution just keeps fouling the anode. I am able to really see all of the tank with the aid of a fiber optic camera so there is no guesswork of what is happening inside

There are a few more tricks that I have learned. One side of the tank is perfectly clean and there is no reason why the other side will not clean up as well. This is no rattle the screws method and call it good enough, but for those of us who want to make things as perfect as possible and trade time and patience for better results and to save money, it cannot be beat.

I am super busy at work and pushing against bad weather coming to the project----so more later.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,162 Posts
Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
have you tried putting steel BBs in the tank and shaking it?
Really no need for BB's at all. The tank is now perfectly clean with no rust at all. I did find a way to fill the rust pits in with JB Weld. Using a body filler spreader does not work as the filler goes right through the hole cheese grater style. Instead,just spread a bit of JB on a sandwich bag and press it gently over the hole and it fills right in. That works great next to the seams where build-up is not a problem, but for flat areas I plan to dent or dimple the perforation a bit to add strength and depth to the JB surrounding the perforations.

So Christmas morning I ran out to the shop and the sandwich bag came right off the big 1/4" hole and it was just like I had hoped-- nice and smooth with good coverage. at least most of the perfs in the tank are right next to the bottom welded seam, so I am crossing my fingers that the tank can be
saved. I would not want to depend on just using tank liner to bridge over the pinholes. Painting and then sanding between coats might go right through the liner and that is not what I want to deal with.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,162 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
have you tried putting steel BBs in the tank and shaking it?
Really no need for BB's at all. The tank is now perfectly clean with no rust at all. I did find a way to fill the rust pits in with JB Weld. Using a body filler spreader does not work as the filler goes right through the hole. Instead,just spread a bit of JB on a sandwich bag and press it gently over the hole and it fills right in. That works great next to the seams where build-up is not a problem, but for flat areas I plan to dent or dimple the perforation a bit to add strength and depth to the JB surrounding the perforations.

So Christmas morning I ran out to the shop and the sandwich bag came right off the big 1/4" hole and it was just like I had hoped-- nice and smooth with good coverage. at least most of the perfs in the tank are right next to the bottom welded seam, so I am crossing my fingers that the tank can be saved
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,508 Posts
Cl175

Sweet bike. I remember bolting them together when new out of the crate. Sold a bunch of them to guys that traveled on the ferries often.
My XS11 sprung a leak at Mrs Snippet's place. Put my finger on the pin hole, then some chewing gum, and later some Seal All which is still in place.
That tank has a lot of brazing on it. Needs a liner. Meantime I bought another tank. Plan is to pour in some muriatic acid mixed about 10 to 1 with water. Lte sit for a day or 2, drain and pour in a liter of two stroke oil and slosh around. Drain most of it, ad gas and go.
Up here the junk yards like to charge $1- per cc for a good engine.
I paid $250- for my XS400 motor, and $100- for my XS1100 Midnight Special motor.
Those small bikes are great.

Unkle crusty*
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,162 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Short update

I think the tank can be listed as officially saved. I caved in the pinholes a bit so they would be like very shallow dents to add strength. When I found the expected weak and thin metal, it got caved in as well. the sandwich bag over the JB weld made it so the holes and pits did not let too much epoxy ooze inside the tank and allowed about a sixteenth to build up.

Once the first coat was sanded for bonding to the second,the JB flowed on nicely. Two 1 ounce tubes will probably finish the tank so not really that much build is necessary. Adding air from a shop vac exhaust will be what I use on the underside with leak detector for natural gas line use. Maybe a little anal with the additional use of tank liner, but that beats the heck out of a paint blister. I will use Northern Tank Liner as it comes highly recommended by a local shop. So 43.00 for a first class tank restore is not too bad...
 

·
Six-String Jockey
Joined
·
1,853 Posts
The description sounds great. Nice work! Gee . . . I WISH we could see some of the process you're describing. Some PHOTOS would be real swell . . . :biggrin:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,162 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
MMMkay

I have a problem posting right now as I am about out of bandwidth without paying extra. The kids installed a new operating system on the computer and the resulting downloads ate up my allowance. Have to wait till the 7th

Not that pictures are my strong point anyway.but I will try to get them ready.

Also am pretty excited that I learned so much more about the electrolysis method as i found the secret to getting the gray slime to power off just as completely the red rust ---as in 100% gone. That does deserve photos for sure.


Slum
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,162 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Short update

Life is still getting in the way of posting pictures,but at least they are in the camera. A tenant called with no water and it is -7 degrees so crawling under a house is on the agenda. A sleep apnea test revealed something about my ticker and now it is the first visit to a cardiologist and then a stress test ---but I feel better than I have in a while with the Binford 6200 Snore Eliminator and only one week of using it. Mrs Slum also likes the extra rest.

Back to the bike. The condenser was held on by one strand of wire at the connector due to a bodge fix by the PO. There is now more reliable spark,but one side is not flashing the timing light as well as the other. Since this bike has only one coil,I am thinking that the plug wire boot may need attention.

But it Runs! Not just running a few strokes by spraying fuel in the intake, but actually running and accelerating! That is the thing that brings joy to buying a bike like this. I would have been happy with just the handlebars and switch controls at this price,and now I have a runner. The tranny also works and shifts, at least on the center stand.

A word on the pipes/mufflers. A while back, someone just could not remove the pipes on a CL bike no matter how hard he tried. Well,it seems that Honda welded the right pipe in one piece and the left pipe has a slip joint at the muffler that lets you loosen and wiggle it a bit. It looks more like a mounting bracket than a muffler clamp,but I finally saw it for what it was. It finally came loose,but I was considering taking the studs out of the bike when it finally came free.

Obviously the bike will need tires and a chain, but for now the only other parts I need will be new needles and seats and also floats for the carb. The floats are presently held together with tank liner,but I better get some new ones while they are still available. Maybe a clutch cable and possibly a tach cable as well.
 
1 - 20 of 80 Posts
Top