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It hurts when I pee
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well it's official.... I own a HD !!!! :71baldboy:

I picked up my new used 2007 Sportster xl883c two days ago and put it on the road yesterday. I purchased this bike for $2800.00 with 2448 miles on her. She has slip on pipes, upgraded seat, aftermarket primary cover and a aftermarket emblem on the air cleaner. She is stock otherwise.

She has been sitting in a garage since 2011. I spent most of the first day polishing 4 years worth of oxidation off the chrome and still have a bunch more to get off. She is cleaning up great though using Mothers polish, but it takes a lot of time to do.

I have not been on two wheels for awhile so I'm taking it slow. I rode around 25 miles yesterday and did very well. Being a smaller bike, it does lack the power that I have been used to on my other motorcycles, but hopefully I will get used to that.

It must have a rev limiter on it, because when I try to get on it and get the rpm's up the engine cuts out, but comes right back when I shift to 2nd.

I wish the dam thing had a gear indicator and a RPM gauge. I'm not used to guessing which gear I'm in.. :mad:


I will need to do something to make it louder (slip on screaming eagles) and hopefully add more power from a intake and fuel controller. It's not as loud as I thought and want it to be. Is there baffles in those slip on's that I can take out to make it louder ??????

I changed the plugs yesterday and will be changing the oil today after I figure out what "diesel oil" is that the manual states I need. :confused: Any help on this would be appreciated (I want to run full synthetic)because the oil I was looking at in Walmart yesterday did not have these ratings below on the container.... :confused:


If it is necessary to add oil and Harley-Davidson oil is not available, use an oil certified for diesel engines. Acceptable diesel engine oil designations include: CF-4, CG-4, CH-4 and CI-4.

The preferred viscosities for the diesel engine oils in descending order are: 20W50, 15W40 and 10W40.




BTW...... the oil filter wrench that fits the HD filter is different from the wrench that fits the Fram filter I bought yesterday. :(
 

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running ****ty is not a rev limiter

C of CF means diesel, F is a year, G-Z is good, E is not.....this is the API Services seal, any oil meeting standards of that rating is good to go for the engine manufacturers oil changing specs.

Lucas is a big oil used in Harleys.
 

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Congratulations on your new toy!

You really don't need a tachometer because most will "Short shift" their Sporty, or just run it up to the "Rev limiter" and then shift.

Isn't it great that everything is right out in the open so maintenance is easy!

Personally, I believe in Shell Rotella T, Diesel oil (Rated for gas stuff also) as the additive pack is fantastic at reducing wear. I use the K&N oil filters with the "Nut" on the end that makes it very easy to get off and on.

There are lots and lots of different exhaust systems for your bike but just assure that your ECM will accommodate the extra air flow, that sucks extra intake air in, requiring a tad more fuel to attain the correct F/A ratio.

Join a HARLEY forum and ask a few questions there. I belong to a bunch of them:biggrin:

Try to enjoy the Sporty for what it is and your feelings will grow for the best little bike around!

At the time I had my last Sportster, a Pristine 2005 883R, kitted, I also had a new 2010 Harley Buell 1125R Supersport bike that was crazy fast but I enjoyed riding the Sporty just as much or more so.

Sam:coffeescreen:
 

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American Legion Rider
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The new Screaming Eagles are not much louder than stock. You might have to go straight shooters to get what you want. And I guess welcome to the other dark side.:D
 

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It's all fun and games until someone loses an eye
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Well it's official.... I own a HD !!!! :71baldboy:

I picked up my new used 2007 Sportster xl883c two days ago and put it on the road yesterday. I purchased this bike for $2800.00 with 2448 miles on her. She has slip on pipes, upgraded seat, aftermarket primary cover and a aftermarket emblem on the air cleaner. She is stock otherwise.

She has been sitting in a garage since 2011. I spent most of the first day polishing 4 years worth of oxidation off the chrome and still have a bunch more to get off. She is cleaning up great though using Mothers polish, but it takes a lot of time to do.

I have not been on two wheels for awhile so I'm taking it slow. I rode around 25 miles yesterday and did very well. Being a smaller bike, it does lack the power that I have been used to on my other motorcycles, but hopefully I will get used to that.

It must have a rev limiter on it, because when I try to get on it and get the rpm's up the engine cuts out, but comes right back when I shift to 2nd.

I wish the dam thing had a gear indicator and a RPM gauge. I'm not used to guessing which gear I'm in.. :mad:


I will need to do something to make it louder (slip on screaming eagles) and hopefully add more power from a intake and fuel controller. It's not as loud as I thought and want it to be. Is there baffles in those slip on's that I can take out to make it louder ??????

I changed the plugs yesterday and will be changing the oil today after I figure out what "diesel oil" is that the manual states I need. :confused: Any help on this would be appreciated (I want to run full synthetic)because the oil I was looking at in Walmart yesterday did not have these ratings below on the container.... :confused:


If it is necessary to add oil and Harley-Davidson oil is not available, use an oil certified for diesel engines. Acceptable diesel engine oil designations include: CF-4, CG-4, CH-4 and CI-4.

The preferred viscosities for the diesel engine oils in descending order are: 20W50, 15W40 and 10W40.




BTW...... the oil filter wrench that fits the HD filter is different from the wrench that fits the Fram filter I bought yesterday. :(

Congrats on the bike. Are these the oil weights recommended by Harley? I haven't owned a Sportster since the 90's. Dods would know better than I, but I believe Rotella 15w40 is compatible, I personally use Amsoil 20w50, but I have a big twin.
And yes the oil filter thing is annoying as hell, I used the HD filter the first time, but have since used Wix.
Most aftermarket baffles are removable, but your neighbors ain't gonna like you for it.

Take my advice....
Save all those hundreds you're gonna wanna spend on crap that will net you tiny gains and put the 1200 kit on it.
 

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There are many oils on the market that are marketed as motorcycle oil. Don't worry too much over oil. Buy any of them, in a viscosity that meets your riding temps and you'll be good to go. I've ran Amsoil 20w-50 in my 2006 Sportster since the first oil change. And the same in the primary, too.
For a list of oils, type in "synthetic motorcycle oil" at the Amazon website. Find what you like and then go pick some up at your local parts store. (Or just order a case online.)
 

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Gone
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20W-50 is a good all-around oil to use. Amsoil and Mobil make some good high-quality synthetics in that grade. I'm sure there are a lot more that will work well.
 

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American Legion Rider
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Congrats on the bike. Are these the oil weights recommended by Harley? I haven't owned a Sportster since the 90's. Dods would know better than I, but I believe Rotella 15w40 is compatible, I personally use Amsoil 20w50, but I have a big twin.
And yes the oil filter thing is annoying as hell, I used the HD filter the first time, but have since used Wix.
Most aftermarket baffles are removable, but your neighbors ain't gonna like you for it.

Take my advice....
Save all those hundreds you're gonna wanna spend on crap that will net you tiny gains and put the 1200 kit on it.
That right there is the best advice you'll get all day here. And I'd also suggest a tuner that can change the rev limiter within reason. Some do some don't.
 

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Gone.
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I could have sworn I remember you saying in the past that you don't have to change oil in a Harley, just add to it as it leaks out....

:coffeescreen:
 

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It hurts when I pee
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
20W-50 is a good all-around oil to use. Amsoil and Mobil make some good high-quality synthetics in that grade. I'm sure there are a lot more that will work well.
Yes, I was able to find Mobil1 full synthetic 20w-50 for V-twins at my local auto parts store. :71baldboy:

I could have sworn I remember you saying in the past that you don't have to change oil in a Harley, just add to it as it leaks out....

:coffeescreen:
You can't judge me for my past. I was riding a Spyder and a Slingshot. :coffeescreen:
 

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Nightfly
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I agree with deadeye, make the jump to 1200. I have a 1200 but now a 1250. I run a Rev Tech electronic ignition with varying advance curve settings and an adjustable rev limiter. Also Crane high output coils with 10mm wires. A few other goodies but making the jump to 1200 is a good choice to get started. The right pipe is important but save that for later.
 

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The 1200 kit is the biggest bang for the buck for the 883, by far. And the fun part is leaving the 883 decals on the bike. Then blowing the doors off stock 1200 Sportster. The 883 has slightly lower gearing than the 1200, so it will walk away from a factory 1200 bike. I know. I have a factory 1200, and a friend here in town has an 883 bumped up to a 1200. It was a fast little rocket bike.
 

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And the insurance company is none the wiser;)

Sam:coffeescreen:
 

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If it is necessary to add oil and Harley-Davidson oil is not available, use an oil certified for diesel engines. Acceptable diesel engine oil designations include: CF-4, CG-4, CH-4 and CI-4.

The preferred viscosities for the diesel engine oils in descending order are: 20W50, 15W40 and 10W40.
Those letters and numbers are the API Service Classification for oils. The API has an "S" series of classifications for spark ignition/gasoline/service station engine oils and a "C" series of classifications for compression ignition/diesel/commercial engine oils.

The "S" series goes SE, SF, SG, SH, SJ, SM and SN, each one an increasing level of engine oil performance. Note there is no SI or SK as these could be confused with "System International" and "Standards Korea".

The "C" series runs CC, CD, CD-II (for Detroit 2 stroke diesel engines), CE, CF-4 (first of the specific 4 stroke engine classifications), CG-4, CH-4, CI-4 and CJ-4.

Some of the older classifications are considered obsolete by the API (API SH and before, API CG-4 and before) but you will probably find budget oils for sale carrying the later of these 'obsolete' classifications.

The oil I would recommend that meets CJ-4 would be Chevron Delo 400 SAE 15W-40, that's one of the best oils in the world, even carries a very recent "S" classification as well so it's suitable for both diesel engine and gasoline engine use.

I've just started working as the Technical Advisor for an international lubricant brand here in New Zealand, back in a field that I'm passionate about. I could go on until midnight on this subject, but it's time for dessert so that's it for now.
 

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Swamp Rat Rider
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Lots of things can be done with a Sportster my last one a 2001, Originally an 883 Kicked it up to a 1250 .. Sold it to a Riding Buddy who has a Sportster Trike Conversion due to 1 Leg .. It now has 160,000 Miles on it Close to 100,000 done after the 1250 conversion .. Just for the Record used Amsoil 20W50 for both holes since it was new ..
 

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It hurts when I pee
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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Lots of things can be done with a Sportster my last one a 2001, Originally an 883 Kicked it up to a 1250 .. Sold it to a Riding Buddy who has a Sportster Trike Conversion due to 1 Leg .. It now has 160,000 Miles on it Close to 100,000 done after the 1250 conversion .. Just for the Record used Amsoil 20W50 for both holes since it was new ..






Are you saying I can use the same oil (mobil1 20w-50) I used for the regular oil change in my primary oil change ?????? The book says..... "Transmission and Primary case lubricant"
 

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Save them all!
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So, maybe I've been a bit out of the loop, but do you still have the Can-Am?

Or did you just get of bucket seats and a steering wheel?

Congrats on the new bike!
 

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[/B]



Are you saying I can use the same oil (mobil1 20w-50) I used for the regular oil change in my primary oil change ??????
Yes. The primary only needs to be changed every 10,000 miles. Every other engine oil change. It doesn't get cruddy like the engine oil.
 

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It hurts when I pee
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yes. The primary only needs to be changed every 10,000 miles. Every other engine oil change. It doesn't get cruddy like the engine oil.

Excellent !!!! I'm going to change it today because it has been sitting so long !!!! :71baldboy:

The book says I have to add the primary oil through the Clutch inspection cover. Is there a reason why I cant add the oil through the primary chain inspection cover ????
 
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